The preamp board in my 83’ G&L L2k lasted 30+ years, got a used replacement for $25. I’ll call that the lifespan. They aren’t exposed to heat or water under ordinary circumstances, I guess the caps can go bad eventually.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Life expectancy of active electronics
- Thread starter pappabass
- Start date
+1 on batteries; matter of fact, today I pulled an Ibanez I hadn't played in a couple of years out of the closet and plugged it in. Nothing, dead. Great. I opened the battery compartment, pulled it out, and the "female" clip stayed with the bass half, the little rivet had corroded off in about two years and the battery was brand new when installed!
9V batteries are a lousy design anyway; the most likely to leak, with one over-stressed tiny piece of stamped, bent sheet metal and two tiny rivets holding each half of the connection on. You never know how much force it will take to clip them on or off. The connector tab is wimpy and can bend. And if it's a difficult one to get off, when it finally snaps off hard you can accidentally jerk the leads right off of the board.
My mentor made me run my cord through the strap first before plugging in to prevent jack failures from pulling on the cable, and I still do it religiously to this day; haven't ever had a jack problem (knocking on wood.)
I'd imagine that folks using active electronics at coastal venues will have corrosion problems before most others.
9V batteries are a lousy design anyway; the most likely to leak, with one over-stressed tiny piece of stamped, bent sheet metal and two tiny rivets holding each half of the connection on. You never know how much force it will take to clip them on or off. The connector tab is wimpy and can bend. And if it's a difficult one to get off, when it finally snaps off hard you can accidentally jerk the leads right off of the board.
My mentor made me run my cord through the strap first before plugging in to prevent jack failures from pulling on the cable, and I still do it religiously to this day; haven't ever had a jack problem (knocking on wood.)
I'd imagine that folks using active electronics at coastal venues will have corrosion problems before most others.
Yeh, that tilt-cavity on MM basses puts strain on the contact cap. Have had to repair a couple of them.
Active electronics have been around for 40 + years. When designed and built robustly (as with any other element of electric guitars) they can withstand major trauma let alone standard use. There are plenty of decent basses around from the 70s with active electronics fully functional. You can always replace the modules if you accidentally fry them or something.
You're far more likely to have a pick up fail or some other wiring issue (common to all electric guitars) or a mechanical failure caused by design or construction foibles (such as truss rods becoming detached from adjusters on very old designs from 50+ years ago).
As a user of active basses off and on for 40+ years all of these alleged issues with battery failure and the like are really not issues in my experience. As for active electronics degrading near the coast - well those who think that had better not take their cars near there as they're full of active electronics and no doubt will pack up at the slightest sniff of salty air (presuming electronics are really affected) - and what about all those sea going vessels - full of electronic gizmos!!
As I said there are far more concerning things to worry about with instruments - especially if you're playing vintage stuff - I wouldn't fancy the truss rod breaking mid gig!! Or a jack socket breaking.
Isn't the gradual tail off of capacitor performance what contributes to the mellow beauty of the sound of a vintage instrument (degraded electrical components) - I recall Musicman tried to replicate this with the Old Smoothie Stingray - based on a 40 odd year old instrument.
You're far more likely to have a pick up fail or some other wiring issue (common to all electric guitars) or a mechanical failure caused by design or construction foibles (such as truss rods becoming detached from adjusters on very old designs from 50+ years ago).
As a user of active basses off and on for 40+ years all of these alleged issues with battery failure and the like are really not issues in my experience. As for active electronics degrading near the coast - well those who think that had better not take their cars near there as they're full of active electronics and no doubt will pack up at the slightest sniff of salty air (presuming electronics are really affected) - and what about all those sea going vessels - full of electronic gizmos!!
As I said there are far more concerning things to worry about with instruments - especially if you're playing vintage stuff - I wouldn't fancy the truss rod breaking mid gig!! Or a jack socket breaking.
Isn't the gradual tail off of capacitor performance what contributes to the mellow beauty of the sound of a vintage instrument (degraded electrical components) - I recall Musicman tried to replicate this with the Old Smoothie Stingray - based on a 40 odd year old instrument.
My oldest one is 15 yrs old and has seen regular gigging - no problems thus far. As I understand, the most common issue is with the contact lugs which simply have to be bent back correctly. I've only ever seen one disconnect from its wiring and that was caused by someone's disgruntled ex girlfriend unscrewing the box and yanking it out (largely in frustration because the bass was so strong nothing significant would break off it!!!)
