Regularly oiling a fretboard is good for the companies that sell fretboard oil. If an unfinished board is played at all, the oil from your fingers will keep it from drying out. If it isn't played at all, it might be a good idea to at least look at it every year or three to make sure it's OK. The board will tell you if it's drying out.
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Long term Maintenance consideration? (Maple vs rosewood)
- Thread starter bpabon
- Start date
Thanks for all the great suggestions. I hadn't considered string tension. I also hadn't considered that an imported kiloton is a commodity, so I need not hoard it.
Since I value this community's respect, I want to clarify a few details.
- I'm 62 and embarking on an amicable separation. Moving out of the family house means I may not always have room for my gear.
- why Kiloton? I'm a habitual modder and I wanted a bass that would not invite any changes, and potentially be the only bass I own.
- the 9 pounder, for sure.
Now, I'll go look for a thread that covers how to get by with a single bass.
Since I value this community's respect, I want to clarify a few details.
- I'm 62 and embarking on an amicable separation. Moving out of the family house means I may not always have room for my gear.
- why Kiloton? I'm a habitual modder and I wanted a bass that would not invite any changes, and potentially be the only bass I own.
- the 9 pounder, for sure.
Now, I'll go look for a thread that covers how to get by with a single bass.
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Maple boards have to be sealed with some kind of finish, or they absorb grunge. Some people like the look, but it’s just plain dirt and skin oil. Rosewood is a naturally oily wood, but easily “rejuvenated” with a little oil or wax. I’m sure rosewood gets just as dirty, it’s just less visible.
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I hope something doesn't sit in a case unplayed for years. I'm a little sad that this is one of the bases on which a purchase decision may be made. I'm sorry.
IF rose,wood, I'd oil it, but the biggest consideration is to have it tuned to pitch with the truss rod set right to play properly before it's put away. Then store it in that condition.
Bass and guitar necks are meant to maintain this relationship.
DO NOT put this away unstrung or with the strings relaxed to slack., and/or the truss rod relaxed.
Over time, the neck will do whatever it will do. And when the time comes to put it back into use, the neck may tune up, go back into relief, but the odds may be against that, and the means required to bring that neck back to playability could be considerable and expensive.
DON'T roll those dice.
Bass and guitar necks are meant to maintain this relationship.
DO NOT put this away unstrung or with the strings relaxed to slack., and/or the truss rod relaxed.
Over time, the neck will do whatever it will do. And when the time comes to put it back into use, the neck may tune up, go back into relief, but the odds may be against that, and the means required to bring that neck back to playability could be considerable and expensive.
DON'T roll those dice.
I've been playing bass for 58 years and have owned both. Never had to worry about either, never oiled a fingerboard. Replaced lots of frets but that is a wear issue. As a pretty serious woodworker, I'm in the camp that says that fretboard oil is a modern version of snake oil. Other than the occasional fretboard that needs treatment, rosewood by nature is a fairly oily wood. And maple is too hard to need to worry about.
If a bass were to be stored for a long period, I'd be more concerned about scratchy pots than anything, and rusty strings if kept in a humid environment. Otherwise dont worry about it.
If a bass were to be stored for a long period, I'd be more concerned about scratchy pots than anything, and rusty strings if kept in a humid environment. Otherwise dont worry about it.
I used to have a G&L JB5 with an unattractive dirty blotchy looking (Caribbean) rosewood boards.
So, I am not in favour of getting a bass with rosewood board from G&L.
So, I am not in favour of getting a bass with rosewood board from G&L.
If you were actually going to play the bass, I would say rosewood has an advantage for repair (the board doesn't have a thick finish sprayed over it). But since you plan on just on leaving it there are more important concerns for long term storage. I quick search should find some information.
So many thoughtful comments, thank you.
I'm thinking that if shtf, I'll find a foster home so that it does a bit of good in the world. Ideally my son (accomplished violinist) would want to use it, after he completes his phase of itinerant sport climbing coach.
I'm thinking that if shtf, I'll find a foster home so that it does a bit of good in the world. Ideally my son (accomplished violinist) would want to use it, after he completes his phase of itinerant sport climbing coach.
,... and there's nothing special about Soundgear wood. ANY wood can have the woods ruined by oiling excessively. I don't oil at all. I have a Hofner bass from '72 in fine fiddle.
Yes, my two SoundGear basses have sealed boards. I couldn't oil them even if I wanted to. The body wood you do not oil, per manufacturer. I gave the fingerboard of my new unlined Sadowsky MetroExpress a quick coat of F-1 oil just to seal it. Put it on, wiped it off immediately, polished it. My Fender Jazz Plus is a sealed board, as is my Sire P5R. The only other bass I have is an Ovation elite ABG and that is unsealed Rosewood which is dry and in need of a quick F-1 oiling.
The problem with excessive oiling of the board is you end up with a sticky board. Plus it darkens the wood.
