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Looking to stain a body white

Depending on the porosity of the wood, a few things can be used. I've used white latex primer brushed on and wiped off, alkyd (thinner based) white primer, or a white Je'ld stain (thick bodied/paste stain) each will absorb differently but once wiped off and dried sufficiently will look translucent. Depending on the level of opacity needed, multiple layers can be applied (and wiped off)
 
Depending on the porosity of the wood, a few things can be used. I've used white latex primer brushed on and wiped off, alkyd (thinner based) white primer, or a white Je'ld stain (thick bodied/paste stain) each will absorb differently but once wiped off and dried sufficiently will look translucent. Depending on the level of opacity needed, multiple layers can be applied (and wiped off)

Thanks I am getting some of this to give it a go.

http://www.amazon.com/Minwax-61860-...0242668&sr=8-1&keywords=minwax+pickling+stain
 
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Mary Kay yes like that

The thing about that finish, is that it does have a translucent wash over the whole body, but it can also have a subtle sprayed "halo" of the same colour around the edges - not quite opaque but less translucent. Below are example of both. Since you can't spray and if you wanted the halo, perhaps you can add one more paint layer there and blend it into the center. Should be doable.

with "halo" on 60's vintage - more translucent, possibly from aging
IMG_4079.jpg


w/o "halo" on 80's RI of 60's vintage - more opaque
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acxmDIaQ.jpg
 
I will also be working with Ash Swamp in my case. I don't like grain filling so that won't be happening. I ordered the stain. Here is the chunk of swamp. I have had it for 6 years. A bit over 2" thick and as you can see very rough about 15" wide.
 
I will also be working with Ash Swamp in my case. I don't like grain filling so that won't be happening. I ordered the stain. Here is the chunk of swamp. I have had it for 6 years. A bit over 2" thick and as you can see very rough about 15" wide.

The product should work fine with this and the clear-coat will soften/round-out the grain. It won't be dead flat (unless you really load on the layers of clear) but will be consistently grain-textured. I've seen this finish on many ash basses and it looks great.
 
THat stuff goes on thin but deceptively stays on so I recommend applying then wiping it off then repeat until desired transparency/opacity. One fast layer & wipe down will give you the antique look but if you want something closer to a typical bass finish you'll need several layers.
 
The thing about that finish, is that it does have a translucent wash over the whole body, but it can also have a subtle sprayed "halo" of the same colour around the edges - not quite opaque but less translucent. Below are example of both. Since you can't spray and if you wanted the halo, perhaps you can add one more paint layer there and blend it into the center. Should be doable.

with "halo" on 60's vintage - more translucent, possibly from aging
IMG_4079.jpg


w/o "halo" on 80's RI of 60's vintage - more opaque
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
acxmDIaQ.jpg

beautiful jazz.
 
this is two or three layers of pickling w/o sealer or sanding between layers, and no clear coat afterward hence the damage.
8530614561_b8cd68a085_c.png


I believe this is swamp ash too.
This is my heavily modified carved back reverse aerodyne ultra lightweight honeycombed under the pickguard PJ jazz.