- Dec 18, 2000
- 13,201
- 340
- Disclosures
- greenboy designs: fEARful, bassic, dually, crazy88 etc
As well as pictoral aids and formulas I think I have a couple of calcs linked here too: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Low-cost DIY practice/coffeehouse tweeterless 110 [long]
- Thread starter DukeLeJeune
- Start date
My latest thought is to buy a 3/8" piece of void free plywood. This would be used to go back to the port divider idea. The divider would come out to 5 1/2" wide to accommodate the cup handle. I'd cap both ends (perhaps I shouldn't cap the back). The front would be slightly recessed. In it I would mount the Vifa tweeters. I would make a small rectangular grill to fit over it.
In post 130 Duke gave a link to the Vifa tweeters and a crude little crossover for it. I found the parts on PartsExpress. I'm building two of these. My total in parts for the crossovers is $13.60.
Two resistors/crossover:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
One capacitor/crossover:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
One Inductor/crossover:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
KO
In post 130 Duke gave a link to the Vifa tweeters and a crude little crossover for it. I found the parts on PartsExpress. I'm building two of these. My total in parts for the crossovers is $13.60.
Two resistors/crossover:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
One capacitor/crossover:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
One Inductor/crossover:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
KO
It's not the washers vibrating. It's definitely the grill. I touch the spot I hear the sound coming from and the sound stops (and that spot is vibrating like you wouldn't believe!). I may try taking the washers off for the heck of it. I am using t-nuts on the grill clamps, so I can torque it down good. I'll give it a shot. Thanks!
Looking forward to seeing your completed cabs, Kraigo! Don't forget to post in the TB110 Club thread so I can give you a number.
My grill was buzzing on the g string also - I cranked down a bit on the screws (have to be careful with this - it looks like it would be easy to crimp the grill) and its seems to have taken care of it. You might lose the washers and see if that helps, with the screws tight there's no problem with the angle.
I always use rubber washers under my grills and also cheap rubber feet under the grill right on the baffle as a standoff that actually pushes the grill out slightly (not enough to really be noticeable) to keep it from flexing (vibrating). Not sure how much room there is on this 110 but perhaps one above and below the speaker would do the trick. Obviously this is for full baffle grills.
That's a darn good idea. As-is, the grill is resting right on the front gasket/frame of the woofer and vibrates exactly the same amount as the woofer does. Isolating it from the woofer is a great idea. Unfortunately for me, getting anything from PE/mail order is 2-3 week proposition. While I'm sure your idea would work, it's not feasable for me to try (my luck, go figure). I'll try removing my "washer-standoffs and see if that helps. Now that I think about it, with the grill resting ONLY on the gasket of the woofer, there is a bit of isolation there. The metal washers are mechanically coupling it to the cab. I'm gonna grab a screwdriver...and a tool for removing screws.
BRB.
@Kraigo: I'm really looking forward to seeing how your Super TB110 (STB110?) turns out. You may wind up reinventing the original and it turns out to be way better than the original. I.E. Hendrix' version of All Along The Watchtower.
Do you mean a large washer for the whole grill (eg, 10"), or under the screws that hold the grill down? Appreciate your ideas!
It's here but I can't crank it until my brother wakes up, usually around 3:30 pm. By then I'll be in class. Argh! Initial thoughts: sounds pretty good and man, it's light! It has a little less fundamental oomph under every note than my Bag Ends do but that isn't a bad thing necessarily.
Glamor shots:
Nice looking build. I can't help noticing that poor GK amp in the background getting squashed under that sound city head. Don't run it too long like that the vent is on the top. You probably know that......I'm just in Dad mode right now.
That's a darn good idea. As-is, the grill is resting right on the front gasket/frame of the woofer and vibrates exactly the same amount as the woofer does. Isolating it from the woofer is a great idea. Unfortunately for me, getting anything from PE/mail order is 2-3 week proposition. While I'm sure your idea would work, it's not feasable for me to try (my luck, go figure). I'll try removing my "washer-standoffs and see if that helps. Now that I think about it, with the grill resting ONLY on the gasket of the woofer, there is a bit of isolation there. The metal washers are mechanically coupling it to the cab. I'm gonna grab a screwdriver...and a tool for removing screws.
Yeah, you have the speaker grill from PE (that only covers the speaker), right?
I've used those and I've always used four screws to hold down the speaker to the baffle and then the other four holes I mounted the grills (right through the backside of the rubber and through the other four open speaker holes).
This mounted the grill tight to the speaker gasket and eliminated the need for the four external attachments. The rubber around the grill is it's own "rubber washer" that encircles the whole grill, and if you put the screws through only the backside of the rubber (but in between the grill metal) you won't even see the screws. You just have to be careful not to screw it down so tight it causes the rubber to be misshapen. You also have to bend open the upper side of the rubber to screw them in, but it will bend back over the screw head when you're done.
Eight screws hold down the speaker but four of them also hold down the grill. I've never had one vibrate at all.
EDIT: I found an old picture of my first cab build ever...a 210 combo (heavy sucker, ugh!). Anyway, you can see the speaker grills (mounted to the baffle through four of the speaker holes)...
Invalid Link Removed
I aligned the vent on top of the GK with the vent on the bottom of the Sound City just in case.
That's a really unique idea. I've never heard of anyone doing that. Great for aesthetics; you don't see any mounting screws/tabs or anything. I'm waiting on t-nuts to mount the woofer; I've unscrewed it so many times (my first woof was a dud) that the holes are all stripped out and I don't want to mess with "doweling" the holes. I may try your method w/the tnuts, depending on how my "no washers" test works out. Thanks!
*edit*
THAT was your FIRST build?! Dayum, that's as good looking as some factory made products today. You've got mad skills, Sir.
*edit*
THAT was your FIRST build?! Dayum, that's as good looking as some factory made products today. You've got mad skills, Sir.
I aligned the vent on top of the GK with the vent on the bottom of the Sound City just in case.
You might want to put the GK on top
Wish I knew that before I pounded in the t-nuts for the grill screws - your idea makes much more sense. May have to figure out a way to make them blend in as a "design feature". It looks so much cleaner without the clamps, and frankly they are vulnerable to getting whacked.
Turns out my "washers for spacers" idea wasn't a good idea, nor necessary after all. Removed the washers and torqued down the plastic clamps good. Didn't realize that the clamps are flexible to a degree and deform/conform to the shape you force them into. They are almost sitting flush on the cab face. Working just great. 95% of the rattle/hum is gone. Cab sounds a lot better without the accompanying "rattle notes" four octaves above whatever I'm playing. Though it could work as an "octave pedal" in a pinch. LOL!
The only thing left to fix is the "pfft-pfft" of air leaking out from around the Speakon where the speaker cable (to the amp) meets the Speakon jack. I'm going to have to silicone over the screws inside that hold the speaker cable. Didn't want to do that but there's just too much air leaking out. If I can hear it, it's "bad enough."
The only thing left to fix is the "pfft-pfft" of air leaking out from around the Speakon where the speaker cable (to the amp) meets the Speakon jack. I'm going to have to silicone over the screws inside that hold the speaker cable. Didn't want to do that but there's just too much air leaking out. If I can hear it, it's "bad enough."
Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,064
- 45,975
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
You could always just get a sealed panel mount Speakon. I only use the screw-in ones in places where there are no air pressure issues.
You might want to put the GK on top
But it sits so awkwardly because of the Sound City's handle. (They were only like that for a day. The SC is in the shop for a rebuild now!)
You mean like this? But I already have the jack plate and the big old 2.5"x3" hole cut in the cab for it.
Invalid Link Removed
Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,064
- 45,975
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
Ooooh, I get it now. Until I looked at the back, I thought it was the exact same thing as what I bought already (looks identical from the front.) Obviously, I bought the wrong one to begin with. 
In the future, like when I build my fEARful, I will buy the jack you linked to. For now I've gotta deal with what I've got b/c it would take 3 weeks to buy a replacement. I'll just silicone all over the thing and seal it up.
Thanks for the great tip, Passinwind.
In the future, like when I build my fEARful, I will buy the jack you linked to. For now I've gotta deal with what I've got b/c it would take 3 weeks to buy a replacement. I'll just silicone all over the thing and seal it up.Thanks for the great tip, Passinwind.
