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Low-cost DIY practice/coffeehouse tweeterless 110 [long]

#501
mikeddd said:
Ooooh, I get it now. Until I looked at the back, I thought it was the exact same thing as what I bought already (looks identical from the front.) Obviously, I bought the wrong one to begin with. :( In the future, like when I build my fEARful, I will buy the jack you linked to. For now I've gotta deal with what I've got b/c it would take 3 weeks to buy a replacement. I'll just silicone all over the thing and seal it up.

Thanks for the great tip, Passinwind.
Click to expand...

I bought a bunch of the ones you're using when they first came out. They work great in patch panels or in my tweeter boxes, and you'll be fine once you get 'er sealed up.

When you get the other ones, spring for a crimping tool while you're at it. Although you can solder to them with care, I've wrecked a few too. Oh yeah: get the .25" ones, not the .187, which are much harder to source female connectors for and feel a lot less secure.
 
#502
Thanks, Passinwind; I will do just that. I just had a fight with the caulk gun; it won. I tell you, I just cannot get the hang of the cartridge-load caulk guns. I store it "depressurized" with the rear push-handle all the way out and the nozzle plugged. Great. Unplug nozzle. Check. Push charging handle forward until it makes contact. Check. Squeeeeeze trigger lightly. Lightly. Nothing. Lightly. Nothing. Lightly. Oooohssssssssshhh*t! and it shoots out all over the place. :(

I guarantee you, that jack is waterproof now, not just air-tight. It's such a mess that I won't even take a pic. And if you saw how I siliconed the jackplate, you'd have an idea of how bad this is. I used my finger and stuffed the silicone into every nook and cranny of the rear of the jack. Wait...those passages connect to the outside...I hope it's not leaking into the body of the Speakon. Lemme look!

Nope. I got lucky I guess. Whew. It's sealed now. Hopefully my tnuts come tomorrow and I can get this thing sealed up once and for all and enjoy it's midrangey-goodness instead of taking it apart every other day to tweak this-n-that.

LESSONS LEARNED:

Cut the hole for the jack plate carefully and accurately, that way you don't have to silicone the snot out of it to ensure it's sealed. Hard to draw a line on black carpet, but find a way. Cut the carpet out and draw/cut ACCURATELY.

Use the correct Speakon jack! This one: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] It's got the spade terminals in the back and the rear of the jack itself is SEALED. (see tip above for more on "sealing")

You don't need spacers for the grill tabs. They just aren't necessary and are one more source of vibration/troubles.

I've built tens of sub boxes for cars; some of them quite complicated (bandpass, big slot port boxes, etc). I know sawdust. But I sorta forget some of the basic woodworking laws due to the ease of construction.

To wit: Part of the draw of this project is that you don't need a shop to build one b/c the cab's already built. SO, most folks will be building this in their kitchen or on the dining room table. MDF makes a lot of dust. Cutting out a 2.5x3" hole creates 32 square feet of MDF dust. It doesn't all fall "right here." It goes everywhere. It travels to other rooms somehow. Your wife will find it. She will be temporarily unhappy. She will not talk to you for awhile...wait...that's not a bad thing.

This cab sounds better than it's cost and size would lead you to believe. Those that've built one know this for a fact. Build one and join the TB110 Club!
 
#503
Ahh too bad I took a month to read this.
As I was browsing it and getting myself all hotted up to make one, the name that suggested itself to me was "The Duke" ;)

Anyhow. A couple of quick questions.
I've been thinking on adding a 210 to my Avatar SB112.

Does anyone have any thoughts on changing enclosure to
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

And adding a second driver to it? The cab is roughly twice the internal volume. I'm a right Neophyte at this, and no woodworker, so am I off base, or can it be that simple?


I'd rather a 210 than 2x110 so I can keep using my SB112.

Thanks and good work all.
 
#504
Honestly, the best match for your Avatar SB112 would be another SB112. When you start mixing and matching cabs and drivers you get into phase cancellation issues, power handling issues, impedance issues and just...trouble.

What matters with speakers is matching the box to the driver and vice-versa. The box you linked to would be unwieldy to move as a bass cab, true. BUT, if it was a good match for whatever drivers you put in there, the form factor doesn't matter. I hope this helps you understand a little bit. :) All boxes have two (if sealed) or three (if vented) things that matter. Construction (Is it built soldily? Does it leak air? Does it vibrate?) , airspace (is there enough internal volume for the driver to breathe the way it needs to?) and tuning (Is there an appropriately sized vent for the driver to exhale like it needs to? Essentially, tuning only applies if it's a vented box...anything with a port).

You could take 10 different 10" drivers and put them in the same box and they would all sound incredibly different. The electrical parameters of a driver make it behave a certain way in a certain sized box. This why there modeling programs like WinISD to show you how "X driver" with "ABC parameters" will behave in "DEF box of this many cubic inches with a port of this many cubic inches."

ps
I'm a small fish in a tank of sharks. I'm gonna get my butt handed to me by the pros that design cabs and speakers for a living. That's OK...I hit the major points. :D /dives under rock before bombs start falling
 
#505
kraigo said:
My latest thought is to buy a 3/8" piece of void free plywood. This would be used to go back to the port divider idea. The divider would come out to 5 1/2" wide to accommodate the cup handle. I'd cap both ends (perhaps I shouldn't cap the back). The front would be slightly recessed. In it I would mount the Vifa tweeters. I would make a small rectangular grill to fit over it.

In post 130 Duke gave a link to the Vifa tweeters and a crude little crossover for it. I found the parts on PartsExpress. I'm building two of these. My total in parts for the crossovers is $13.60.
Click to expand...

I very much like your killing of two birds with one stone there!

Bting said:
Does anyone have any thoughts on changing enclosure to
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

And adding a second driver to it? The cab is roughly twice the internal volume. I'm a right Neophyte at this, and no woodworker, so am I off base, or can it be that simple?
Click to expand...

I don't know what the tuning frequency of that enclosure is, so I can't make a prediction as to how well it will work. It looks to me like they kept the same port dimensions and just doubled up the rest of the internal volume, but I'm not sure. If that is what they did, then the tuning frequency will be about 40 Hz, which imho is too low.
 
#506
I find this info on Link Removed

two 8-ohm speakers wired in series,with 8-ohm drivers.
8 (ohm speaker) multiplied by 2 (speakers) equals a 16-ohm load.


So back to what I was asking before it seems I can add this cab to the Little Marshall MB30.If I read this right but wait it gets better


four 8-ohm speakers wired in series/parallel Yep, same as above but with 8-ohm speakers. If you've read everything else you've GOTTA be sick of it by now...
Four 8-ohm speakers wired series/parallel equaling an 8-ohm load
So If 4 can be wired why not 2?? You guys gotta help me with this I dont understand.
 
#509
Bting said:
And adding a second driver to it? The cab is roughly twice the internal volume. I'm a right Neophyte at this, and no woodworker, so am I off base, or can it be that simple?

I'd rather a 210 than 2x110 so I can keep using my SB112.

Thanks and good work all.
Click to expand...

It largely depends on your amp. The chances are quite good that you are running a stand alone amp head (not separate preamp and power amp), that your head doesn't handle a two ohm load (most can't although, yes, many can) and that your SB112 is an eight ohm cabinet. Given this most likely scenario you'll want a your second cab to be another eight ohm cab. Having one 2x10 box instead if two 1x10 boxes doesn't change that.

There's a sticky for cabinet impedances here. I probably won't be able to better it, so I'd encourage you to read it.

The short answer is the same as Mikeddd suggested. Get a second SB112 or build the 1x10 in this thread, which is an eight ohm cabinet. The cab as described does open up possibilities: Light (acoustic) rehearsals? Grab the "TB110". Moderate needs, grab the SB112. Even larger needs, use the two together.

If you can afford it, I think you'd be better off with a second SB112. The most compelling reason for me is that they'll be really similar in power handling. The TB110 can take a lot of juice, but it starts giving distortion at about 100 watts. The way I'm planning on retuning the cabinet it's closer to 85 watts.

The chief advantages of the TB110 are size, weight and low cost. It's a cool cabinet in and of itself, but it doesn't boast huge low end (with default tuning F3 is ~67 Hz, with my tuning about 72 Hz) or high power handling and volume.

Good luck.

KO
 
#511
Two weeks ago back in post 352 (page 18) I posted the parts list from Mikeddd (post 220) in comma separated form for ease of import into a spread sheet.

I've updated it there, but I'll repost it here. I changed out the Speakon connector to the sealed form that Charlie linked. I've added the crossover components that I looked up yesterday and the Vifa tweeter that Duke suggested. Here's the new parts list in CSV form.

>>
1,081-425,#8 x 1" Deep Thread Pan Head Screws Black 100 Pcs.,$3.25,$3.25
1,260-340,Penn-Elcom G0727KIT Plastic Grill Clamp Kit,$2.15,$2.15
1,260-373,10" Economy Speaker Grill,$3.88,$3.88
1,260-702,Strap Type Handle,$2.49,$2.49
4,260-773,Penn-Elcom F1633 Rubber Cabinet Foot 1-1/8" Dia. x 1/2" H,$0.75,$3.00
1,262-360,Penn-Elcom G0727/NO Speaker Clamp Only 4 Pcs.,$1.44,$1.44
1,081-435,#6 x 3/4" Deep Thread Pan Head Screws Black 100 Pcs.,$2.90,$2.90
1,092-067,Neutrik NL4MP-UC Speakon 4 Pole Panel Mount,$3.18,$3.18
1,262-036,Penn-Elcom D0949K Dish One Neutrik D Black 4" x 4-3/8",$4.06,$4.06
1,290-517,Eminence Basslite S2010 Neo 10" Bass Guitar Speaker,$79.97,$79.97
1,260-628,Goldwood E-10SP 10" Single Vented Box,$22.80,$22.80
8,269-211,Penn-Elcom C0670K Flat Corner,$0.48,$3.84
2,017-4,4 Ohm 20W Resistor,$0.79,$1.58
1,027-420,Dayton Audio DMPC-3.3 3.3uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor,$1.79,$1.79
1,255-202,Jantzen 0.10mH 18 AWG Air Core Inductor,$3.43,$3.43
1,264-1028,Vifa BC25SC06-04 1" Textile Dome Tweeter,$11.62,$11.62

P.S. Open Notepad, copy the above and paste into Notepad. Save as. The file extension should be ".csv" instead of ".txt". From there you can import into the spreadsheet.
<<

KO
 
#512
Oh, the Vifa tweeters hole land patterns are such that just lining up opposing screws vertically in the middle of the port and attaching to the two screws to the shelf and outer panel would work. Not quite centered in their respective panels, so I'd hate to depend on them.

If you're blocking out some of the port with a piece of wood and attaching the tweeter to the port blocker, screw heads parallel with the panels the screws will land on the seam between the port blocker and the shelf and outer panel. A diamond shaped orientation for the screw holes would probably be preferable.

If you want to recess the port blocker a bit to make a small grill for the tweeter you'd have to trim some of the horn of the tweeter. It's too tall for the port (obviously). In that case your diamond land pattern would reduce to two screws holding down the tweeter, the other two having been lost in the carnage. If you silicone the horn you could probably use the grill itself as extra holding for the tweeter.

If the guitar amp in my basement sells tonight I'll order my woofers tomorrow then begin the "real" work on the cabinet. Right now this is largely planning work for me.

KO

Added: The little Vifa tweeter will not fit on the main baffle, in case anyone was curious.
 
#513
The price on that speaker has gone up.

kraigo said:
Two weeks ago back in post 352 (page 18) I posted the parts list from Mikeddd (post 220) in comma separated form for ease of import into a spread sheet.

I've updated it there, but I'll repost it here. I changed out the Speakon connector to the sealed form that Charlie linked. I've added the crossover components that I looked up yesterday and the Vifa tweeter that Duke suggested. Here's the new parts list in CSV form.

>>
1,081-425,#8 x 1" Deep Thread Pan Head Screws Black 100 Pcs.,$3.25,$3.25
1,260-340,Penn-Elcom G0727KIT Plastic Grill Clamp Kit,$2.15,$2.15
1,260-373,10" Economy Speaker Grill,$3.88,$3.88
1,260-702,Strap Type Handle,$2.49,$2.49
4,260-773,Penn-Elcom F1633 Rubber Cabinet Foot 1-1/8" Dia. x 1/2" H,$0.75,$3.00
1,262-360,Penn-Elcom G0727/NO Speaker Clamp Only 4 Pcs.,$1.44,$1.44
1,081-435,#6 x 3/4" Deep Thread Pan Head Screws Black 100 Pcs.,$2.90,$2.90
1,092-067,Neutrik NL4MP-UC Speakon 4 Pole Panel Mount,$3.18,$3.18
1,262-036,Penn-Elcom D0949K Dish One Neutrik D Black 4" x 4-3/8",$4.06,$4.06
1,290-517,Eminence Basslite S2010 Neo 10" Bass Guitar Speaker,$74.97,$74.97
1,260-628,Goldwood E-10SP 10" Single Vented Box,$22.80,$22.80
8,269-211,Penn-Elcom C0670K Flat Corner,$0.48,$3.84
2,017-4,4 Ohm 20W Resistor,$0.79,$1.58
1,027-420,Dayton Audio DMPC-3.3 3.3uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor,$1.79,$1.79
1,255-202,Jantzen 0.10mH 18 AWG Air Core Inductor,$3.43,$3.43
1,264-1028,Vifa BC25SC06-04 1" Textile Dome Tweeter,$11.62,$11.62

P.S. Open Notepad, copy the above and paste into Notepad. Save as. The file extension should be ".csv" instead of ".txt". From there you can import into the spreadsheet.
<<

KO
Click to expand...
 
#515
@Kraigo: Nice catch on changing out the Speakon in my shopping list for the CORRECT one. That was such a bonehead move on my part. "Speaker cabs should be airtight. I think I'll order a part with a lot of holes in it!" Fail. :scowl:

I'm really interested in your tweeter mod! Can't wait to read and see how you did what you did, parts and all that. Good luck!
 
#516
I used your list (laziness on my part), so I have a pair of them as well. It's why I updated the list and made sure it was publicized.

Your list saved me more time than I spent on the jacks so it doesn't matter to me. I've got one of the right one and I'll just hit Metro Sound and Lighting today and pick up a second. Best of all, Metro throws in the appropriate screws.

Let's hope I sell a guitar amp tonight.

KO
 

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