LowEndLover

[Play4U]

Hello all of You Low End Lovers

I have a puzzling bass guitar string issue/concern that I would like to share with You and perhaps You could provide some positive, but corrective feedback to rectify this issue.

So that You could understand all the parameters I will try to simply explain how I got to this point (i.e. issue): I have a second-hand Fender Deluxe Series Jazz four (4) string bass guitar. For many years it performed fine for me...served me well. However, because I wanted more from my instrument, I began upgrading it. I had a certified and qualified guitar technician build a 6-position rotary varitone control pot for me. I receive, installed and tested the system. All performed as expected.

I also order and received a Hipshot BT7 Bass Xtender (to drop the open "E" to either a "D or low B"; a Hipshot 4-string Kickass High-mass Bass Bridge and three (3) HB7 Hipshot tuning machines. All of the above components were installed per the manufacture direction/instructions.

Here is where my problem enters the picture. During the "String Height" setup process the strings must be in tune before making adjustments. Carefully adhering to the procedure, I first successful set up the E and G strings and then began adjusting the "A and D" strings. The "A" string was set to the proper height (at the saddle), but the "D" string would NOT come into tune. During the tuning process of the "D" string it constantly dropped out of tune at the C# stage and if I continued the tuning process, the "D" string jumped completely out of the tuning peg!!!

If You have experienced this or know of a solution without going back to original equipment, please advice and I will research and consider each recommendation.

Thanks in advance,

LowEndLover

 

[DrBnz]

We need a picture to help understand what you're talking about. Let us see the "D" string jumped out of the tuning peg.

 

[HaphAsSard]

During the tuning process of the "D" string it constantly dropped out of tune at the C# stage and if I continued the tuning process, the "D" string jumped completely out of the tuning peg!!!

Does the string look broken?
If so, you'll have to get a single one matching the one in the set. If you tell us in which continent you live we'll be able to suggest you an online store selling single bass strings. If the string is intact,
do you find trouble in repeating its installation? If you do, we definitely need to see a picture or three.

 

[FRoss6788]

Pics and how are you installing (wrapping) the strings around the post?

 

[DrBnz]

Is should look something like this one. Note the end of the string is anchored in the tuner peg center hole. Then it wraps around the post at least once, but ideally twice around. More is ok, but just not needed. The strings should butt against each other even if you have to push them together with your thumb as you tighten / tune the string. Does yours look something like this??? So what is jumping out of where????

 

[Play4U]

I first want to thank all of You who replied. One of the inquiries was: where do I live... what continent? I live in Baytown Texas (located approximate 30 miles east of Houston, TX.).

When installing new strings on a bass guitar I typically measure the length of each string be extending the string to the center of the upstream peg (the "G" string is measure and cut [if needed] at the "D" string peg; the "D" string is measured and cut at the "A" string peg...)

Below per Your request are pictures of how I typically install any given string.

Image 0462 shows the NEW string installed on January 4, 2023 - You can't see it in the photo, but the "D" string is loose and not tuned to pitch as the "E, A and G" strings are.

Image 0464 and 0465 are the same ("D" string) as 0462, but from a different angles.

Image 0466 and 0467 are the same photo of the original new string removed. Originally installed in November 2023.

This is my first time using this forum, so the method of reducing the large photo is a learning curve for me. Please overlook this error!

If You need additional information, please advise.

Thanks again,
Play4U (LowEndLover)

 

[JimmyM]

I first want to thank all of You who replied. One of the inquiries was: where do I live... what continent? I live in Baytown Texas (located approximate 30 miles east of Houston, TX.).

When installing new strings on a bass guitar I typically measure the length of each string be extending the string to the center of the upstream peg (the "G" string is measure and cut [if needed] at the "D" string peg; the "D" string is measured and cut at the "A" string peg...)

Below per Your request are pictures of how I typically install any given string.

Image 0462 shows the NEW string installed on January 4, 2023 - You can't see it in the photo, but the "D" string is loose and not tuned to pitch as the "E, A and G" strings are.

Image 0464 and 0465 are the same ("D" string) as 0462, but from a different angles.

Image 0466 and 0467 are the same photo of the original new string removed. Originally installed in November 2023.

This is my first time using this forum, so the method of reducing the large photo is a learning curve for me. Please overlook this error!

If You need additional information, please advise.

Thanks again,
Play4U (LowEndLover)
View attachment 4924009

Oh dang, it’s cut rather short, isn’t it? Well you could try a lock wrap, where you wind the string over the first wrap and not under. If that doesn’t work, at least electric bass strings are cheaper than upright strings.

 

[ga_edwards]

When installing new strings on a bass guitar I typically measure the length of each string be extending the string to the center of the upstream peg (the "G" string is measure and cut [if needed] at the "D" string peg; the "D" string is measured and cut at the "A" string peg...)

I would cut them longer than that, sometimes, cutting isn't even required. I allow around three inches past the peg of the string I'm installing. On a typical fender headstock, this the about space of three tuning pegs. So you could stick to your method of using the pegs as a measurement guide, but go to the next but one instead. i.e. for the E string, pull it through to at least the D string.

 

[Bodeeni]

Yes a tuner issue. My #1 jazz has old Schaller tuners that do not hold the strings well anymore. It is like the edges have rounded. I have to cross over wraps to get it to hold, especially on strings without silk. I use a lot of wraps and cross over the first which seems to usually work. This is almost always a G and D string issue.

 

[sawzalot]

It’s cut a little short, but the other issue is likely the D string is getting caught as it goes beneath the string hold down button on the headstock. See how the silk has bunched up there? A string will either pop out of the tuner or break if it gets bound up at that point. Many manufacturers end one of the outer wraps at that point (if they don’t use silk) and it will cause the same problem. Just put a little downward pressure on the string as you tighten it to help it get beneath the button and I’ll bet you’ll see the problem go away.

 

[Play4U]

Good Day Gentleman

Thanks for the timely and forthright feedback. In retrospect, I too noticed some of the same corrective issues that You observed - i.e. string cut too short, maybe 1.5 wraps around the tuning peg and silk binding at the leading-edge of the string retainer. I WILL be making needed adjustment to correct what I can control, but aside from Mr. Sawzalot's comment around the string retainer, I am unsure how to manage that concern. However, I was a revelation to learn that this issue (when it dose happen) is often related to the "D" or "G" strings o both.

I am not familiar with the "Lock Wrap" and "Cross Over" techniques, but I will do some leg-work to research and learn these techniques in order to become knowledgeable and better - I try to learn something every day because "knowledge is Power".

Thanks again guy's and know that I value each of Your observations and input. If anyone know where I could find and view some "How To" video's, please advise.

LowEndLover

 

[ACRock]

Some folks recommend crimping at 90 angle before cutting - to keep the winding from coming loose from the core. Dont know know about all that (there are threads here debating this topic), but Ive found that a 90 angle keeps the string from slipping out of the post hole. Looks like youve got enough string left to do this

 

[bigthemat]

+1 to the bend then cut method. Make sure you leave enough after the cut to put into the center of the tuner. I usually go for about an inch or so

 

[BassCajon]

I think the rule is
if you have a slanted Gibson style headstock like a 2+2 traditional headstock, then you don't need too much excess string on the post. 2" is probably ok but oversize that if you're a new player.
The slant is taking care of that much needed downward pull.

But a Fender style headstock is more finicky.
It's really just that A string that needs the extra length ( maybe try 2 full posts). Then around 4 wraps will be on the post. These wraps create that needed downward pull on the A.
Just make sure the wraps are neat and tight.
and the E which needs well, just enough.
1.5 posts sounds reasonable.

D and G strings are always staked down by the string tree, so even those can be cut at 1 full post.
You can cut but you can't add more, so oversize it a bit if you are unsure.

 

[Play4U]

I am feeling the "LOVE"!!!! Thanks to all of You Low End Lovers for taking time out of your busy schedule and sharing critical information in order to groove and hold down the low end.

 

[Play4U]

Good day Low End Lovers

I hope that all are having a good day or as well as can be expected (day). I again, have a question that You might be in a position to enlighten and encourage. I started not to pose this question because many may find it to be silly and not important; However, I realize that the only silly question is the one that is not asked and to add to that, it's likely that perhaps other are also wanting an answer to this question.

So, my question is: For bass guitar players, what is the recommended pick gauge/thickness size(s). I have never played with a pick, but over the years I have acquired many and have given many away. How I am mentally ready to take-on the challenge and develop this skill, put it into my toolbox and us it as the occasion calls for it.

You guys have be great with your forthrightness and candidness...and I am sure that You will not mislead me.

Thanks in advance and have a good rest of your day.

 

[DrBnz]

Oh those are lots of fun. The point is that you can get different tones with different types / thickness. Plus you have to see what you like. There's a lot of feedback thru the fingers/hand and you may have a preference as to what is easiest to hold on to. I like a thicker plastic and or wood. Get a variety pack and play with them.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

There’s a huge variety of picks and you really just need to find what works and feels best for you. Fortunately picks are mostly inexpensive so you can experiment fairly cheaply.

Having said that, when I use a pick I usually use one of the orange Dunlap Tortex picks. They’re .60mm. That’s for both bass and guitar and the occasional flailing on mandolin.

 

[Play4U]

Thanks Dan and Matt. I will purchase a variety of thickness's to determine what feels and sounds good and works for me. Thanks again.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Thanks Dan and Matt. I will purchase a variety of thickness's to determine what feels and sounds good and works for me. Thanks again.

Materials can make a difference too. There’s “regular”’plastic. Those Tortex are a synthetic that’s supposed to feel like tortoise shell. There’s a number of other options.