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M-Vave IR Box review

I wouldn’t expect it to necessarily sound as good as a pedal that costs 10x as much, but there are a few variables to consider first. Do you use the amp sim on the CabZone? There’s no equivalent for the MVave. Have you tried messing with the eq (available in the app) or HPF/lpf on the MVave?
 
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I wouldn’t expect it to necessarily sound as good as a pedal that costs 10x as much, but there are a few variables to consider first. Do you use the amp sim on the CabZone? There’s no equivalent for the MVave. Have you tried messing with the eq (available in the app) or HPF/lpf on the MVave?
I didn't use the amp sim on the CabZone or the EQ section on the IR Box (other than having the Low Cut knob at min and High Cut at max, meaning the widest frequency range). If I did, it would be even harder to compare the devices.
 
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Update: I loaded the two bass IRs from my CabZone X into the IR Box, and they definitely sounded differently—worse than on the CabZone. (Note that M-VAVE Cab Suite performs conversion from non-native formats on import, so that may have contributed.). Meanwhile, after a longer listening session, I now have the impression that with some of the available IRs (just not those two), IR Box sounds pretty good, even comparable with CabZone X.
 
I don't know how much of a difference this makes. The IR Box loads 2048 samples at 44100 Hz. The CabZone X (from what I could find) loads 1000 samples at 48000Hz. So the IR Box has 46ms IRs, and the CabZone has 20ms (but at a slightly higher resolution).
 
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I want to tell y’all about my thoughts of one of the cons of this wonderful IR pedal.

Basically my rig consist on my bass, board and combo amp, most precisely a Fender Rumble 200.

So I played with the IR Box and the Rumble amp at the same time and began to deal with some minimal but significant issues.

The signal that goes fron the XLR out of the IR Box along to the FOH sounds really nice, but on the otherside my Rumble has been working with the IR, it’s own preamp and the 15” speaker too! Also… did I mention that my board includes an Aguilar TH preamp?

It’s not hard to tell that it endep up sounding a little bit to much overloaded

I wasn’t satisfied with my amp performance and to going ampless wasn’t an option for me…

So I started looking for a way of getting a non-affected thru output from the IR Box to my Fender Rumble so it can recieve the cleanest signal and I came along with I think it’s the most practical solution: and ABY pedal!

I know that most people will suggest using the DI output on the Aguilar to split the signal as well, but it requires a very special type of patch cables that it isn’t easy to find either.

So all the roads ends on a ABY pedal that would split the signal to get a clean only-preamp affected directly to the return input of my combo amp.

I even made an illustrated example of how to re-build my board in order to add another pedal and how the signal its going to work!

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So after coming up to my roadmap, I ordered and M-Vave ABY pedal (at a very good price btw) to try out this whole idea.

As soon as I receive it and settle down it, I’ll be posting the results.

Hope it works!
 
Update: the ABY Box it's doing its job pretty well, no issues about it.

That said, my next problem was that my IR's were sounding to "boomy" and even lacking of growl. I even intend to blame my marvelous IR Box!


Reading this topic again, I came along with @stubbsonic @ETJ and @Bevan777 opinions and experiences on the Cube Suite's EQ and decided to try out myself.

After asking Gemini to give me an orientation to where I was trying to get, I have to say that the result it's amazing and outstanding.

Now only the adjustable 5-band and the shelves are solid, but the HPF and LPH really blown my mind! Also have to say that it's my firts time using this EQ tools, so it's impossible for me to compare them (perhaps I'm exaggerating because of my inexperience?)

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Once again, I'm really thankfull of TalkBass and it's community, you bring all the helpful information one is looking for!
 
ABY Box installed and on probation! It will be tested on the weekend at my band’s practice.

Everything seems to work as it should.
I wish the IR box had the option to put IR on XLR (to use directly to the PA/mixer) and bypass 1/4 output to use my cabinet... but as I know, its impossible... buuuuut what do you think if I disconnect only the 1/4" output from the circuit and solder it directly to the input? I would have a normal XLR output (with IR) and a 1/4" output in perpetual bypass (without IR) AT THE SAME TIME, right?
 
I wish the IR box had the option to put IR on XLR (to use directly to the PA/mixer) and bypass 1/4 output to use my cabinet... but as I know, its impossible... buuuuut what do you think if I disconnect only the 1/4" output from the circuit and solder it directly to the input? I would have a normal XLR output (with IR) and a 1/4" output in perpetual bypass (without IR) AT THE SAME TIME, right?
You could test your idea or just save trouble of adding a jack and soldering by trying a split Y. Bass (or last pedal) into female 1/4” to dual mono male 1/4”. One to IR Box (on to PA w IR), one direct to bass rig.
 
The knobs High Cut and Low Cut knobs are independent from the settings in the 9-band. So whatever you set in the 9 band will be affected by the Low Cut, and vice versa (additive). The advantage to using the editable 9-band is that you have more precise control. I don't know how precise the knob is. One thing to be aware of is the response of the knobs is a little slow, so there's a lag between a knob change and the change in sound. Also, if you press both buttons to bypass, this will bypass the Low Cut & High Cut knobs, but not the volume knob.
 
The knobs High Cut and Low Cut knobs are independent from the settings in the 9-band. So whatever you set in the 9 band will be affected by the Low Cut, and vice versa (additive). The advantage to using the editable 9-band is that you have more precise control. I don't know how precise the knob is. One thing to be aware of is the response of the knobs is a little slow, so there's a lag between a knob change and the change in sound. Also, if you press both buttons to bypass, this will bypass the Low Cut & High Cut knobs, but not the volume knob.
Thank you very much for the response... so at what orientation are the high and low cut knows not affecting the output ? At 0 ? Also, if you go to bypass will the high and low pass filter be deactivated as well ? I'm really just using it a a HPF/LPF. Thanks for the help!!
 
Thank you very much for the response... so at what orientation are the high and low cut knobs not affecting the output ? At 0 ? Also, if you go to bypass will the high and low pass filter be deactivated as well ? I'm really just using it a a HPF/LPF. Thanks for the help!!
Both knobs need to be fully CCW (counter-clockwise) to be OFF. The LOW CUT is intuitive, in that turning it up RAISES the HPF cutoff point. The HIGH CUT is counter intuitive (to me) because you turn it "up" clockwise, to drop the LPF cutoff point. But at least I can remember "more" is doing more.

As long as you turn the knob slowly, you can get a useful range of values. The problem with turning the knob fast is that the value stair-steps.

Be aware, you will need to use the app (either desktop or mobile) to edit and save (!) at least one of the presets so that BOTH the IR and the EQ are turned off, so that you can use the High & Low cut knobs only. I'm not sure, but I think all the factory presets all default to the IR being on, and the EQ being off.

The 9-band is much more configurable, so at least on paper, it will make a much more full-featured HPF in terms of shaping the roll-off to something ideal. But there's nothing wrong with must using the low-cut knob.
 
Sorry about the typos. I want to clarify one thing.Turning the knobs fast doesn't affect the range. The issue is that you have to wait a half-second (?) before the value actually lands. So it's better to move it slowly to find your sweet spot.
 

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