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Magnets & Copper Wire: A Pickup Building Thread

Two four string multicoil pickups just finished. I cut the bobbin parts with laser. I love that machine! So accurate and so easy. Each coil has two A5 rod magnets, 7300 round of 42 AWG wire. Wired in series, two coils have S polarity, two N polarity facing the strings and reverse wound so each pickup is humbucking. Sounds clear with nice lows.
 

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How thick, if at all, is the bobbin material around the magnets? I thought more turns should fit on it (8500-9000). 7300 turns should result in a relatively bright sounding pickup.
Wal pickups supposedly have 10000 turns with AWG 42.5. Do you know how Alembic pickups are wound?
Just tape around the magnets. The sound is not bass heavy by no means, but not too bright either. I’m going to pair the pickups with HAZ preamp so I can cut or boost bass and highs if needed.
 
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I wanna say I read somewhere that the Alembic Series 1 pickups that are single coils have a very low wind count... something like 1000 winds of 38AWG wire.
Thanks!
There's quite a difference in the number of windings between the Wal and Alembic approaches.
With 1,300 turns, the Cycfi Nu pickups are also in the Alembic ballpark, but they use 46 AWG wire. All interesting approaches.

Just tape around the magnets. The sound is not bass heavy by no means, but not too bright either. I’m going to pair the pickups with HAZ preamp so I can cut or boost bass and highs if needed.
Currently, I use 8,500 windings with 43 AWG for my multi-coils. The low frequencies lack a little punch, but this can easily be compensated for with some EQ.
 
I maden a GuessAlembic- style pickup. I found out that Alembic MXY pickups have 1/2” wide ceramic magnet, 8kOhms resistance and stacked construction. Everything else is pure guesswork. But it works and bass sounds like a bass. I have to do some more test playing. Next thing is vacuum forming the cover. I’m cutting the plug with laser and making a small vacuum forming box.
 

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I maden a GuessAlembic- style pickup. I found out that Alembic MXY pickups have 1/2” wide ceramic magnet, 8kOhms resistance and stacked construction. Everything else is pure guesswork. But it works and bass sounds like a bass. I have to do some more test playing. Next thing is vacuum forming the cover. I’m cutting the plug with laser and making a small vacuum forming box.
I wanna say I read somewhere that the Alembic Series 1 pickups that are single coils have a very low wind count... something like 1000 winds of 38AWG wire.

8kOhms sounds too high to me for the 1000 turns and the 38AWG wire that @slowburnaz mentioned for the S1 pickups. Hence, I assume the MYX pickups are different to the SC pickups in their S1 basses. Do you have some details regarding the differences between the models?
 
I got the cover made. I made a vacuum forming box and used shop vac to create vacuum. I used 1,5mm polystyrene for the cover. I softened the plastic in the frame with heat gun, placed it over the plug and applied vacuum. Cover came out pretty nice. The shape is perfect but the suface needs fine sanding. I’m sanding it after the epoxy cast has cured. I’m looking for a matte finish so I’m going to finish the cover with 2000 grit Abralon. I’m drilling the mounting screw holes after the epoxy has cured.
 

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A quick custom bobbin R & D project:

I needed to make up some spool-style pickup coils for several percussive-pickup projects. The immediate need was for a replacement pickup coil set for a Ray Ramirez Baby Bass. Then I have a mini-electric upright bass project, and a future full-size electric upright project. I needed a coil and bobbin design that I could use for all three projects.

The coils used in the percussive pickups of Baby Bass type instruments are round cylinders, about 3/4" diameter x 3/4" high with a single 1/4" A5 rod magnet in the center. And they commonly use standard sewing machine thread bobbins. That's what Ampeg used for its Baby Bass pickup coils in 1960. Those plastic bobbins are commonly available, even today. It was a simple way to make spool type pickup coils. but they had some weaknesses....

I decided to develop my own new spool bobbins, with several improvements. I made them larger in diameter, 1" dia x 3/4" tall, with a 3/8" bore to take a 3/8" dia magnet. I cast the bobbins in upper and lower halves, from polyurethane, similar to how I make all my other bobbins. And I cast some sturdy wire terminals into the upper flange. For much more secure terminations of the coil and lead wires.

20250607_133340.jpg


I decided to make the mold for this one from aluminum, rather than silicone rubber. Note the four little holes on the rim of the flange; they go horizontally out the side of the block.

20250607_133412.jpg


It's a split mold, made from two blocks of aluminum bar stock. Two 1/8" x 2" dowel pins keep the halves accurately aligned. I won't go through the process of how I machined it here, but it wasn't difficult. A fairly simple job in one of my metal lathes. It took me less than an hour.

20250607_133431.jpg


A scrap slug of 3/8" aluminum bar stock clamps in the middle, to make the bore for the magnet.

20250608_230022.jpg


Here's the terminals; two short pieces of 20ga solid insulated wire, bent into U shapes and plugged into the little holes. They go around the center core to reinforce the upper flange.

I wiped the mold halves and the core with wax before plugging in the terminal wires.

20250608_135647.jpg


A quick clamp on the outside of the mold, and poured in some black polyurethane resin......

20250609_095617.jpg


And here's the part out of the mold. It looks a little rough, but most of that is the wax residue. The four terminals are exposed, after stripping off the insulation. The two outer ones are connected together, as are the two inner ones.

20250609_095638.jpg


The top side of the flange will get a quick flattening on the belt sander.
 
A quick custom bobbin R & D project:

I needed to make up some spool-style pickup coils for several percussive-pickup projects. The immediate need was for a replacement pickup coil set for a Ray Ramirez Baby Bass. Then I have a mini-electric upright bass project, and a future full-size electric upright project. I needed a coil and bobbin design that I could use for all three projects.

The coils used in the percussive pickups of Baby Bass type instruments are round cylinders, about 3/4" diameter x 3/4" high with a single 1/4" A5 rod magnet in the center. And they commonly use standard sewing machine thread bobbins. That's what Ampeg used for its Baby Bass pickup coils in 1960. Those plastic bobbins are commonly available, even today. It was a simple way to make spool type pickup coils. but they had some weaknesses....

I decided to develop my own new spool bobbins, with several improvements. I made them larger in diameter, 1" dia x 3/4" tall, with a 3/8" bore to take a 3/8" dia magnet. I cast the bobbins in upper and lower halves, from polyurethane, similar to how I make all my other bobbins. And I cast some sturdy wire terminals into the upper flange. For much more secure terminations of the coil and lead wires.

View attachment 7251388

I decided to make the mold for this one from aluminum, rather than silicone rubber. Note the four little holes on the rim of the flange; they go horizontally out the side of the block.

View attachment 7251389

It's a split mold, made from two blocks of aluminum bar stock. Two 1/8" x 2" dowel pins keep the halves accurately aligned. I won't go through the process of how I machined it here, but it wasn't difficult. A fairly simple job in one of my metal lathes. It took me less than an hour.

View attachment 7251390

A scrap slug of 3/8" aluminum bar stock clamps in the middle, to make the bore for the magnet.

View attachment 7251392

Here's the terminals; two short pieces of 20ga solid insulated wire, bent into U shapes and plugged into the little holes. They go around the center core to reinforce the upper flange.

I wiped the mold halves and the core with wax before plugging in the terminal wires.

View attachment 7251391

A quick clamp on the outside of the mold, and poured in some black polyurethane resin......

View attachment 7251393

And here's the part out of the mold. It looks a little rough, but most of that is the wax residue. The four terminals are exposed, after stripping off the insulation. The two outer ones are connected together, as are the two inner ones.

View attachment 7251394

The top side of the flange will get a quick flattening on the belt sander.
Cliffhanger!
 
Making up the spool coils:

20250610_235916.jpg


I cast two of the top halves, with the terminals, and then two of the bottom halves; same mold but without the terminal wires. And those are the 3/8" x 1" A5 magnets.

20250611_000913.jpg


I assembled the bobbin halves on the magnets, a light press fit, leaving about 1/4" of the magnet sticking out the bottom end. That becomes the mounting lug.

I made up an aluminum disk adapter for the spindle of my coil winder machine. It has a 3/8" hole and a setscrew that locks onto the end of the magnet. A simple and secure way to mount the bobbin onto the spindle.

I put a quick wrap of Scotch double sided tape around the center of the bobbin. I've found that having that sticky side out helps to get that first layer of the winding stuck down and even.

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Winding the coil. I put on 8000 turns of #41, tight and even. It looks like there's space enough on the bobbin to put on 10,000 or even 12,000 turns, if I ever want to.

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I stuck the coils onto a steel bar and terminated the coil wire ends onto the terminals. About six wraps around the terminal, leaving some slack in the lead-in, and then gently soldering it. And checking the continuity with the meter. Each coil ended up at 1.9K, about where I wanted them.

20250611_005828.jpg


Potting the coils, dunking them for several minutes in Total Boat Clear Penetrating Epoxy. Having the magnet in the center is handy. I used that bolt as a handle for the dunking, and then stuck them on the steel bar to dry.

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After the potting epoxy cured, I wiped on a coat of West Systems epoxy to put a hard protective shell over the coil.

20250612_003413.jpg


I machined up a quick aluminum mounting bracket to fit the coils into the Ramirez. The coils are attached by the magnet end, a 3/8" hole and a setscrew.

20250612_004319.jpg


Adding the leads. These two coils are full humbucker; the magnets are opposite, and the coils are wired opposite. I didn't put outer shielding shells on this pair of coils, but I will probably put them on the next set that I make. Perforated brass and black epoxy, like I do on my AMB-2 pickups. Total resistance is 3.8K.

20250612_110629.jpg


Installed in the Ramirez. It's down directly under the bridge, with the coils under the two steel diaphragms. The two shiny cap screws adjust the height of the coils to get the right clearance under the diaphragms.

20250612_110611.jpg


If you aren't familiar with them, this is a Baby Bass built by Ray Ramirez in Puerto Rico. It's similar to the classic Ampeg Baby basses from the '60's. It belongs to my buddy Juan Perez, who is my Chief Test Pilot. The original pickup worked, but it was weak (low output level) and thin sounding. So, Juan asked me to make up an upgraded replacement. I agreed to do it because I was planning to develop a better spool pickup coil anyway, for those other two electric upright bass projects.

Juan called me this morning. He played a long Salsa gig with the Ramirez last night in a big club. A big band of old pros. He said the Ramirez sounded great, and they all commented on it. Much fuller sound, more clearer bottom end, less mid-range honk. Juan's very happy with it. A successful upgrade.
 
What changes did you make from the original "thin sounding" pickups ?
Stronger magnets, more wire or wider coils ?

Three things:

  • A bigger, more powerful magnet. The 3/8" dia magnet is more than twice the magnetic field strength of a 1/4" magnet.
  • 8000 turns of #41 wire. About the same number of turns, but larger gauge wire. I think the original coils were about 8000 turns of #43 wire.
  • I wound the coils tight and close around the bobbin and magnet.
The bigger magnet plus the 8000 turns increases the overall output level. The larger gauge wire, with the same number of turns, reduces the DC resistance and impedance of the coil, which flattens out the EQ curve. It lowers the hump in the mid-range. Winding the coils close and tight increases the clarity and definition.

Those things together increased the overall output level, quite a bit, while also bringing up the lows and highs closer to the level of the mids. It also expanded the range, deeper lows and higher highs, and made the two ends clearer. More deep fundamentals.

As an extra bonus, I attached a pair of thick steel washers to the bottoms of the feet of the bridge, so they are sitting right on top of the steel diaphragms. This allows the diaphragms to flex more easily and adds more iron to the vibrating mass above the magnet. An extra boost to the output level and clarity.
 
So far, I have used a classic single coil approach in my bass with the movable pickups - i.e. all bridge pickups are wound the same and all neck pickups are RWRP (top left). I'm currently working on humbuckers (bottom left).

In your opinion, is there a difference between approach A and approach B in a split-coil setup (top right)? Will it affect the sound? I don't think so, but I would still be interested in your thoughts and recommendations.

MultiCoil_RWRP_2.png
 
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I wanna say I read somewhere that the Alembic Series 1 pickups that are single coils have a very low wind count... something like 1000 winds of 38AWG wire.
Where you've read that is from an interview with Rick Turner, he mentioned not feeling like winding a high number of windings. So he simply wound a lot less and solved it with a preamp.
But since that time, all modern Alembic pickups have a "normal" amount of windings, at least that I am aware of. Would be great if someone reverse engineers the series electronics, would be interesting to see how many windings are done on the pickups and dummy coils.

Interesting thread this, nice work too!