Maple fretboard, does it need a sealed finish?

[Andrew 1976 Ibanez 2353]

I've recommended Min-wax satin finish wipe-on poly for several years. NOT the water-based version, though. There's no particular reason to use the water-based version as the oil-based stuff is super easy to use and isn't that much of a problem for clean-up. I make throw-away pons from soft finish cotton scrap and throw it away after an application. A pair of disposable gloves makes for a totally easy cleanup regimen.

I have a standard "3 coats of poly in 12 hours" procedure that works well for me. Years ago I used Tru-oil but got really tired of needing 15 or 20 coats to get any appreciable build with it. It also took TOO LONG to do. All those coats and the requisite drying time just made for an impractical finish, especially when I was marketing custom lap steels.

It's possible that Min-wax water-based is now "OK", but I don't mess with success.

I picked up a can of the Varathane water-based that Bruce and others are experimenting with, but haven't had the type of instrument project I'd want to use it on yet.

Just to throw something else out there, I've been experimenting with Osmo Polyx "hard oil" as a neck surface finish and I'm pretty impressed with it so far. I'll know more after a few hundred more hours of playing time.

3 COATS IN 12 HRS - any further insight..?? (from a beginning luthier) thank you, A

 

[rudy4444]

3 COATS IN 12 HRS - any further insight..?? (from a beginning luthier) thank you, A

It's just what it says.

Apply first coat, wait six hours.
Apply second coat, wait another 6 hours.
Apply third coat and give it sufficient time to dry. I usually wait a couple of days and then hit it lightly with 0000 steel wool (Liberon brand!) to knock off any dust nibs.
If you're applying finish in an area with a lot of dust you may have to "de-nib" between successive applications.

I always use a fresh "fad" to apply finish. Although traditionally used for french polishing, it makes for a quick and easy finish applicator that can be tossed after each coat. I use clean 6" squares of 100% cotton cloth, forming a ball from one, wrapping a second around it, and binding it at the top with a rubber band to make a nice handle. It's an excellent way o use old tee shirts that are just too ratty to put on again.

Watch the first 60 seconds of this video. Use the "rubbish" version that he initially shows and throws off to the side. Perfect for finish application, but not appropriate for actual high-brow french polishing!

 

[dwizum]

I use a lot of the same minwax product and I will say the curing time is highly dependent on temperature and humidity. I run a space heater in my shop when I'm applying it, bumping temp from maybe 60-65 to 70, just that small difference will cut the time between coats in half. Andrew, if you're using it and need more time between coats, get your temp up (and also be sure you're applying nice thin coats).

 

[Andrew 1976 Ibanez 2353]

It's just what it says.

Apply first coat, wait six hours.
Apply second coat, wait another 6 hours.
Apply third coat and give it sufficient time to dry. I usually wait a couple of days and then hit it lightly with 0000 steel wool (Liberon brand!) to knock off any dust nibs.
If you're applying finish in an area with a lot of dust you may have to "de-nib" between successive applications.

I always use a fresh "fad" to apply finish. Although traditionally used for french polishing, it makes for a quick and easy finish applicator that can be tossed after each coat. I use clean 6" squares of 100% cotton cloth, forming a ball from one, wrapping a second around it, and binding it at the top with a rubber band to make a nice handle. It's an excellent way o use old tee shirts that are just too ratty to put on again.

Watch the first 60 seconds of this video. Use the "rubbish" version that he initially shows and throws off to the side. Perfect for finish application, but not appropriate for actual high-brow french polishing!

THIS IS GREAT - THANK YOU!!!