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Markbass amp heads (long term users)

So... I actually just picked up a TH500 & have been 'A/B-ing' them over the past few weeks (and many others, here, can give their input)- the two amps u are looking at are distinctly different. I also had an LMT 800 for awhile- but was just more wattage than I needed.

The TH500 is quite a bit 'softer' in its attack- as compared to the MB (both the LMII & LMT 800)... so if you are looking for a strong attack- go with the MB! I got the Aggie as a 'back up'... but am also looking at getting an LMII- as a 'second back up' :smug: just so I can have the punch as well!!

While you can adjust the settings on the TH500 to get some punch... just be mindful that it is quite 'thicker' & 'softer' than the MB.

Good review comparing the two. I was able to play around with the Little Mark III at Guitar Center. I agree it sounded punchy, I also felt it was good at bringing out the tone of the bass which impressed me. Haven't heard the Tone Hammer only sound clips online.

"Lots of positive comments here about the MB reliability"
 
i've had two MB heads. a LMII and an SD800. i sold the LMII only because i never used it, and the SD800 has been my only amp for... 5? 6 years? not sure- long enough to have an oppinion, though.

it sees a lot of regular use. realistically probably 6-10 hours a week for all those years. never once a problem. i don't tend to ever need to turn it up that high, and don't think i've ever gotten anywhere near noon on the master dial. maybe that's why its so reliable, but also speaks to how much headroom this little monster has.

a friend of mine who turned me on to markbass switched because his amp turned off on him twice at a gig. he now uses agulair. like i said, i can't immagine this would ever happen with my SD800- which i believe is discontinued nowadays.
 
Here is my gig rig. With PA support you can play anywhere. Without PA support you can play any small to medium club with plenty of overhead. 350 watts for just the combo. 500 watts for the combo and extension.
Markbass 2.jpg
 
I bought my CMD121P back in 2007 and it's been my main amp ever since. Last year, it developed a slight distortion that made me nervous to bring it in for repair. The two possibilities were to swap out the preamp board or the main board. The repair cost was $125 for the preamp board and $165 for the main board. It turned out to be the preamp board which VST (the authorized service center) mentioned was a rare failure. I haven't had any issues with it ever since...I even bought a second one.

Here's the thread: http://www.talkbass.com/threads/lets-play-faulty-preamp-or-main-amp.1007600/#post-14742597
 
My LMII died on a gig last summer after 7 years. I did not repair it because of the unreasonable repair cost, and instead bought a KXB500 to replace it. Besides the fact that the LMII was the newest piece of gear that I owned and yet failed, I also don't believe in rewarding a company for their unreliable gear by giving them even more money. I might feel differently if it had lasted longer. My Hartke Kickback is 17 years old, still works, and I still use it for rehearsals and small gigs. Though I no longer use my Hartke 3500, it too still works after 21 years. The Crown MA1200 that I sold to a band for their PA is also still working after 26 years. The LMII was a nice amp, but I'm finished with Markbass.
 
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Gigged and rehearsed with nothing but an LMii for the past 7 years up until Thursday...never had an issue whatsoever. The most transparent head i have ever owned and MOST reliable. Traded it three days ago for a Streamliner 900. Just felt I needed something different after 7 years. I know I'm gonna miss it but felt it was time for a change. I highly recommend them for what it's worth...
 
figuredbass, do you know which component failed?
One of the IRFP240 MOSFET power transistors is definitely blown out (shorted), and both T22 & T23 IRFP27N60K MOSFETS in the SMPS also appear to be shorted. I did a search to see if I could get any info on repairing this section of the amp and learned that the driver IC (IC5) could also be blown out if T22 & T23 become shorted. So it seems that cascading or a "domino effect" of failures may have occurred. I have the LMII schematic, but Markbass refuses to identify the IC5 part number on it, and it's number has been intentionally sanded off the chip itself! So I have no idea what to replace the original IC with. I have meters, a signal generator and a 'scope, but frankly my electronics knowledge cuts off abruptly after a certain point, and I can't comprehend this driver circuit well enough to diagnose or repair it. So at this point I'm dead in the water as far as trying to repair the amp myself.
 
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One of the IRFP240 MOSFET power transistors is definitely blown out (shorted), and both T22 & T23 IRFP27N60K MOSFETS in the SMPS also appear to be shorted. I did a search to see if I could get any info on repairing this section of the amp and learned that the driver IC (IC5) could also be blown out if T22 & T23 become shorted. So it seems that cascading or a "domino effect" of failures may have occurred. I have the LMII schematic, but Markbass refuses to identify the IC5 part number on it, and it's number has been intentionally sanded off the chip itself! So I have no idea what to replace the original IC with. I have meters, a signal generator and a 'scope, but frankly my electronics knowledge cuts off abruptly after a certain point, and I can't comprehend this driver circuit well enough to diagnose or repair it. So at this point I'm dead in the water as far as trying to repair the amp myself.

Thanks for the detailed reply. Interesting. I do not remember to what extent the amp is protected from shorted load or high temperature (which should be possible reasons for a failure) but the effects of the failure remain the same. I sometimes have to remind myself that many bass amps lack the most basic protection circuits that come as standard even in the cheap Behringer, etc. PA amps. And though the pin configuration of the op amp can be identified, different characteristics between different op amp types will effectively stop most hobby level repair attempts. (The amp might power up, but can become prone to immediate or "drifting" unreliability, like oscillation/instability, heat, noise etc.) But I think you already know all this and probably more!
So in a way, MarkBass has "traded" your confidence in the brand for a "no-sale" of an output board? They could buy you back by revealing the op amp identity? It is a fine balance, I guess.
 
Thanks for the detailed reply. Interesting. I do not remember to what extent the amp is protected from shorted load or high temperature (which should be possible reasons for a failure) but the effects of the failure remain the same. I sometimes have to remind myself that many bass amps lack the most basic protection circuits that come as standard even in the cheap Behringer, etc. PA amps. And though the pin configuration of the op amp can be identified, different characteristics between different op amp types will effectively stop most hobby level repair attempts. (The amp might power up, but can become prone to immediate or "drifting" unreliability, like oscillation/instability, heat, noise etc.) But I think you already know all this and probably more!
So in a way, MarkBass has "traded" your confidence in the brand for a "no-sale" of an output board? They could buy you back by revealing the op amp identity? It is a fine balance, I guess.
It is unfortunate that the driver IC is not an actual op amp, but a very different type of IC that some thought might be (or be related to) a IRS2153D, described as a "self-oscillating half bridge driver," which I know nothing about. Yes, if it were a conventional op amp I think I could probably find a compatable replacement that would be stable. I do understand if they don't want to reveal the part number if it is part of a proprietary circuit design they don't want copied, but not if they hide it intentionally to force paying for a repair. And yes, I only want the opportunity to purchase the board so I can repair it myself without the additional labor cost or having to ship the amp to the repair center. I have been able to do this in the past with other equipment.
 
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I had my LMII for 7 years with no problems. It I was giging 70-80 times a year for the last 3 years. No problems at all. On night we were playing and I was running the amp off a gas generator and it killed it. I want out a bought a LMIII.
 
I've been gigging an LMIII with both slab and upright for many years without a single problem until last week. Due to some work being done on my house, I left the amp and cab in the car overnight. The temperature was in the upper 20s F overnight. When I got to the gig, which was in the early afternoon, and hooked up the amp and the fan made a horrible loud buzzing noise. It eventually stopped after the amp warmed up, but I had a few nervous moments. I know I should have given it more time to warm up.

I have an old beat-up LMII I bought from Craigslist as a back up. It looks like it was dragged behind a truck, but besides stiff and scratchy pots, it works great. I've been impressed by Markbass reliability.
 
Hi all.... been thinking of purchasing a LM800 and running it through my Berg AE410 cab. This would be the first micro amp that I've purchased.

Before I drop $750.00 on this amp I'd like to hear (feedback) from some long term users about reliability issues (if any) on the Markbass amps. If I recall when they first came out there were concerns about reliability, and that players where having some problems after 6 months or so of heavy use. Was also reading somewhere on the forum that they can be very hard to repair.

Now that they've been around for a while I'm wondering how they have been holding up in the real world of gigging weekly, year after year.

Thanks in advance...
Paul

LMT800 here. 1.5 years of regular use. Dropped once 9 months ago as it fell out of unsecured shoulder bag, caught it with my foot then bounced to concrete. It dinged a corner but still works perfectly.

I have a friend who is an authorized markbass repair shop- yes, they can be harder to repair (I'm not sure how so). I think it's the tube (military tube of some sort) install method that makes it harder. I'm not sure the tube is "worth" having as far as changing the sound but, then again, I have an old swr and I can get similar results with either amp so I may not be the best judge of sounds. Given that, you might be better off with non tube of markkbass or another brand altogether. Eq is a wonderful thing can make any good amp sound like any other good amp.
 
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