Matching Amp & Speaker Wattage

[inkfromblood]

So does that mean what was stated earlier in this thread, wayyy back in time is bunk?

Or is it that while the math is fine, its the fact that they are 10 inch speakers, each speaker taking 250 watts?

I've seen posts of people using the minimega with cabs rated lower than the 210s, but they were a pair of 350 watt 12s (8ohm each), and another into a 212 rated lower as well.
So do those work because of the size / quality of the speakers?

 

[Braden Persch]

I'm no expert, but I ran my GK 700RB through an acoustic 4x10 (400 watts) and i blew a speaker. Replaced it with a GK neo 4x10 (800 watts) and it's been great. $0.02

 

[B-string]

So does that mean what was stated earlier in this thread, wayyy back in time is bunk?

Or is it that while the math is fine, its the fact that they are 10 inch speakers, each speaker taking 250 watts?

I've seen posts of people using the minimega with cabs rated lower than the 210s, but they were a pair of 350 watt 12s (8ohm each), and another into a 212 rated lower as well.
So do those work because of the size / quality of the speakers?

Where is your confusion? Any amplifier when off or with no instrument being played sends ZERO watts to a speaker cab. If you can see yourself getting in a volume war (for fun or spite) choose a cab equal to or best twice what the amp will output at it's maximum clean wattage. If you can control yourself just use a cab that will get the volume you need plus a little to spare and whatever amp you like 1 watt or 3,000 watts.

If your amp has to run with the master close to noon you need more speaker cabs (second might be a bigger amp if your cabs can stand the strain).

 

[Thecircaliveson]

So I seem to be seeing answers that go both ways.
I need guidance.

I'm trying to apply he info in this thread to decide between a orange bass terror 500 or 1000 watt version.
I'm thinking 1000 so I can keep my signal as clean as possible + headroom.

The cabs I'm choosing to run for specific space efficiency are the orange sp212 rated for 600 rms. 8 ohms. and a markbass 212 rated for 800 rms. 8 ohms.

I feel like this won't be a problem when running both cabs together (500 watts per cab)

But what if I wanted to run just one of the cabinets? Say for practice or recording.

What kind of guidelines should I follow if running one cab at 1000 watts?
Would it even be safe if I follow specific guidelines?

Markbass 800 rms - nothing past 5?

Would the orange 600 rms be too risky to even plug up? Or would like 9 o'clock or less be acceptable.

Thanks bunches!

-cheers

 

[B-string]

Volume controls are not accelerator pedals, you can get full "clean rated" power at less than 10:00. If you are looking for "clean sound" why are you looking at Orange?

 

[Thecircaliveson]

Volume controls are not accelerator pedals, you can get full "clean rated" power at less than 10:00. If you are looking for "clean sound" why are you looking at Orange?

I was two floors up at a house show and one of the bands ran through some songs before he show started and I was immediately impressed with the bass tone before I knew what it was. From two floors away. When I watched them I just loved the warmth and fatness he got out of his bass terror.

Also I know of a studio that has one for recording.

I realize it can get some grit which is good in many circumstances, I just don't want the grit to be the only option with volume.

Basically my goal is to have the most proffessional compact bass rig. I read in a thread that they thought the bass terror was the best or one of the best micro bass heads. I had a bassman 300 before and It was just overkill. Size and weight. Maybe if I was Motörhead was the conclusion there.

Im open to suggestions. The guitar is a bogner shiva with an orange 212 and single coil usa tele. The bass I have is a lakland skyline. the style of music is like a mix between of this town needs guns, at the drive in, circa survive, as cities burn, and the Mars Volta. Some light abrasiveness, some cleans.

Warm and fat is what I want. Compact is preferable. And respectable. I respect orange. Something that will compliment the bogner sounds.

 

[B-string]

Many brands command "respect", the Orange of today is not the built by Metamp of the old days although a well liked brand. You haven't posted where you are located to know what brands might be available for audition.

The class D output section is designed for full output independent of load (8 or 4 ohms switch), this can be a plus or minus depending on how you look at it. The preamp is on the "dirty side", but this may be a sound you desire. How much of the amps power actually gets developed to a speaker cab depends on your playing style, pedals if any and actual volume needs. A 200 watt input cab can survive a 1kw amp if your volume needs don't exceed the cab's limits (you still only have 200 watts of headroom by the cab's limitation). It is not a cut and dry answer.

 

[jwr]

Ok I need to ask a question about all this because my Mesa Powerhouse Cabs have been making some noise and they used to be dead silent.

Background. My Bass Prodigy amp had some issues going on, turns out more than I thought. Needed to be re-tubed and there is a capacitor that had is being replaced. The speakers were acting fine until I changed a single tube in my amp and re-biased it, which actually screwed the whole thing up (still not sure why). So that amp is out for repair. I am currently using a GK 1001rb II. The cabs are still making noise. It's a humming noise that is louder in some places in my home.

I thought it was power related, but I'm not sure. I've tried it in several rooms and on different outlets.

My amp is rated at 700 watts, the cab is 400 watts. I know I've ran it that way for a long time with no issues, so could that be causing my issue? Is my amp/cab mismatched because of the power difference. I read part of what Preston wrote, and haven't got a chance to go through it all yet. Figured someone could give me a simple yes or no.

Thanks