Double Bass Matching Neck Stain for 1951 Kay M-1B

[Keith Rawlings]

The problem is that the exposed wood is no longer in the white, because it's contaminated by decades of dirt, sweat and oxidation. Messing with it opens a big can of worms.

How so? I was going to wet sand it after progressing up to 600 grit on the bare part only and blend the existing nitro areas into the bare wood then coat it with an oil of some type. I also think there's a good amount of Shiner Bock mixed in with my sweat in the heel and neck that I'd like to sand out.

 

[stefaniw80401]

How so? .

Well the oils and grime are hard to get out of the wood grain. You might try your first grit being a green Scotch pad with alcohol? Then wipe the grime off with a clean rag and repeat multiple times. There may be a better solvent for this purpose? Xylene?

 

[Greg Clinkingbeard]

Don't overthink it. Sand it, scrape it, stain it, oil (WD-40, linseed, olive.......)
It will be OK.

 

[Keith Rawlings]

Finally finished with 10 coats of Zinser Bullseye Shellac on the heel and the top and headstock; then sanded a transition into both areas and walnut-oiled the playing surface of the neck. It feels really nice and keeps the cool aged look of the original patina. Thank you @james condino and @Greg Clinkingbeard for your advice.

 

[marcox]

Looks great. I can't tell what you did, which is exactly the point!

 

[Keith Rawlings]

Looks great. I can't tell what you did, which is exactly the point!

That was what I was shooting for. In my original pictures you can see the darkened areas on the edges where my guitarist tried to touch the neck up with a darker lacquer that never matched and wore away from years of playing. I sanded all this off starting with 100 grit, then to 220, 400, 800, 1500 and finally to 3000 grit. I left the original finish where it was and sanded transitions into the heel and the bottom heel of the scroll then applied the Bullseye shellac over the worn nitro finish. It really brought it out and freshened the original patina. I sanded each coat of shellac with 3000 grit sandpaper and rubbed each coat on with polishing cloths. I'm very happy with how it came out.

For the playing area I applied walnut oil with 0000 steel wool, rubbing two coats in a circular motion, then going north and south with the grain. I'm dressing the fingerboard in a similar fashion with the walnut oil and the steel wool after sanding it smooth with the same levels of sandpaper.

Doing all this made me realize how therapeutic woodworking is and how much I missed doing it. I worked for a carpenter for a couple of years in the late 90s and took shop all through middle and high school and I had forgotten how good it feels to work with wood. It was so relaxing and each day after work I'd do a little bit more and watch it all come together. It's a great feeling.

 

[eh_train]

Doing all this made me realize how therapeutic woodworking is and how much I missed doing it.

Next therapeutic exercise? Get that fingerboard bolt out of half position!

 

[Keith Rawlings]

Next therapeutic exercise? Get that fingerboard bolt out of half position!

It bothers me too. It's really in there though. I may need a luthier to remove it.

 

[bherman]

It bothers me too. It's really in there though. I may need a luthier to remove it.

Cant really see it that clearly in the photo, but if the bolt is deep enough you might be able to cut a plug from a piece of wood that matches, then smooth it down and oil it to match. I use plug cutters often in woodworking to hide joinery. But it would have to be deep enough to cover the bolt (maybe 1/8"?)

 

[Keith Rawlings]

Cant really see it that clearly in the photo, but if the bolt is deep enough you might be able to cut a plug from a piece of wood that matches, then smooth it down and oil it to match. I use plug cutters often in woodworking to hide joinery. But it would have to be deep enough to cover the bolt (maybe 1/8"?)

I have no idea why it was in there in the first place, but I think I'll leave that for the luthier to take out when I have the rosewood board replaced. I have a gorgeous piece of ebony I bought in 1999 that I've never had installed on the bass along with an unfitted nut and Aubert adjustable bride. I was planning on getting them installed in 2020 but then Covid happened so I'm waiting until later this year.

 

[Keith Rawlings]

I cleaned up the tuner plates as well. Brasso is such an amazing compound.

Before…

…and After!

 

[drwv]

Those cleaned-up tuning machines and plates look great!

Any idea whether Brasso would be safe on the original wood finish if I used it with the tuners and plates still mounted on the bass?

 

[Keith Rawlings]

Those cleaned-up tuning machines and plates look great!

Any idea whether Brasso would be safe on the original wood finish if I used it with the tuners and plates still mounted on the bass?

I would be really careful with it as it's corrosive to wood and wood finishes. I left these off the bass for a few days and made sure to polish all of the material off before I reinstalled them.

You might be able to tape off the areas around the tuners with some good masking tape and then use the Brasso; but it helps to use a toothbrush and really scrub the metal for the compound to really polish well, so ut might be beat to just take them off. A masking tape like Frog Tape that seals really well would probably work if you polish them while they're still on the bass.

I love Frog Tape. It never damages finishes and leaves clean lines. I used it to line the edge of the heel so I wouldn't get the Bullseye Shellac on the painted sides of my Kay.

 

[Ed S]

Looks great.

What I like about this thread is a reminder of the many ways to make an old ply work for oneself. Some don't care how it looks, so long as it plays. Others want the best of both.

I'm reminded of when I drove a Corvair. There were so many of them - including parts cars, and they were so cheap. If you wanted to restore it to stock, you could. If you just wanted a fun driver, you could. Customize.? Knock yourself out.

All you gotta do is end up w/ the bass the way YOU want it.

Re: this question:

Somewhat related question -- the neck on my new bass has a lovely figure, but the luthier did not put any color on it, so it's understated. I'd like to bring out the tiger stripes and refinish the neck. What 's the process for that??

My neck has a nice figure under linseed oil which does not stand out as much as I would wish. To what extent will it come out as a result of playing, under the oils from my hand? I assume the linseed would need to be stripped before any tint was used.