I’ve got some great answers but I’m not sure if any of them are suitable for this
Ah ok, thank you for the explanation.
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Mesa Boogie Walkabout Mega-thread Part 10
- Thread starter Chef
- Start date
Your description reminded me of 'The Big Trees' unit from Audio Kitchen here in UK.
Not cheap though.
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Caca de Kick,
FWIW, I split my signal, clean & dirty. I would like to blend a WA clean sound with a WA dirty sound. I can't run two amps. I'm an apartment dweller(!). So… Were you able to get a WA-ish drive tone out of it? Was it dark sounding with limited top end like I read elsewhere? Did it play well with other pedals?
And, the BIG question, is it worth me taking chance?!
And the BIGGER question to the agedhorse, is Andy's herd gonna make something like this soon?
In case anyone is interested, a replacement front panel for a black face WalkAbout is currently $113.90 plus shipping from Mesa.
I'm going to make one myself actually.
There's nothing wrong with the one that's on there, but I want artwork on it and I don't want to paint the original one.
The plan is to make a frame like the one that's there, and then stretch something over it like an artists canvas, and then do a painting of some sort on there. I'll probably experiment with a bit of old bedsheet first.
FWIW, I split my signal, clean & dirty. I would like to blend a WA clean sound with a WA dirty sound. I can't run two amps. I'm an apartment dweller(!). So… Were you able to get a WA-ish drive tone out of it? Was it dark sounding with limited top end like I read elsewhere? Did it play well with other pedals?
And, the BIG question, is it worth me taking chance?!
I'd say it was beyond 'drive', not sure how far you are wanting to go with distortion.
But if you've tried either a Bigblock 750 or Titan V12 and kicked on the OD channel, the V1 pedal sounded extremely close to that.
I have not tried the Bigblock 750 or Titan V12. Looking more for that compressed/pushed amp sound. Thanks Caca de Kick!
Just picked up an early black face WalkAbout and have some questions about the power amp board.
@agedhorse will hopefully have the answers, but anyone else with info about them is welcome to jump in too.
In checking out the insides I noticed that the inductor (L1) on the output has been replaced with a jumper and the solder joints don't look original. Also it looks like one end of D4 has been relocated. Are these as it should be?
There's a 5-15 written in marker on the heatsink which may be a service date, or not.
I also was wondering what the metal shield over the 3 MOSFETs on the right is for.
Are there any practical mods to bring back some brightness to these newer WalkAbouts? This amp is noticeably darker, as has already been discussed, than the earlier models I've had in the past,
@agedhorse will hopefully have the answers, but anyone else with info about them is welcome to jump in too.
In checking out the insides I noticed that the inductor (L1) on the output has been replaced with a jumper and the solder joints don't look original. Also it looks like one end of D4 has been relocated. Are these as it should be?
There's a 5-15 written in marker on the heatsink which may be a service date, or not.
I also was wondering what the metal shield over the 3 MOSFETs on the right is for.
Are there any practical mods to bring back some brightness to these newer WalkAbouts? This amp is noticeably darker, as has already been discussed, than the earlier models I've had in the past,
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- Feb 12, 2006
- 60,963
- 5
- 220,652
- Disclosures
- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
L1 is not necessary and wasn't included on any as far as I know (though I can't be sure of those with the earliest MOSFETS, yours is newer). I recall that D4 is correct but that was long before I got involved, and the metal strip reduces susceptibility to oscillation, especially in high RF environments.
Cool, thanks! I'm glad to know that everything is right with it. This amp sounds so nice it makes me wonder why I ever switched amps (again). I keep ending up going back to a WalkAbout. Maybe I'll stick with it this time.
Well it’s official, the WD800 is legit. Fat and warm. Ima have a lot of fun with this.
Has no one else noticed this yet on the WD-800?
The left front handle is mounted too close to the input jack. If you have certain high-end cables, you may encounter a problem using them with this amp.
Both of my Analysis Plus cables amp-end jacks cannot be inserted into the WD-800 input jack - as the handle impedes the width of the jacks from being fully inserted. Not good!
I was uncomfortable creating possible damage from forcing/jamming it in any further on my first gig with the WD-800 - and fortunately had another lower-end cable with me, or I would have been in trouble.
The mute switch is also mounted too tightly behind the left handle, and I found it difficult to access quickly and easily on stage when needed.
The active/passive switch setting is accessed less frequently - and IMO these two switches should have been swapped, so the mute switch would be the more easily accessible of the two.
The left front handle is mounted too close to the input jack. If you have certain high-end cables, you may encounter a problem using them with this amp.
Both of my Analysis Plus cables amp-end jacks cannot be inserted into the WD-800 input jack - as the handle impedes the width of the jacks from being fully inserted. Not good!
I was uncomfortable creating possible damage from forcing/jamming it in any further on my first gig with the WD-800 - and fortunately had another lower-end cable with me, or I would have been in trouble.
The mute switch is also mounted too tightly behind the left handle, and I found it difficult to access quickly and easily on stage when needed.
The active/passive switch setting is accessed less frequently - and IMO these two switches should have been swapped, so the mute switch would be the more easily accessible of the two.
- Feb 12, 2006
- 60,963
- 5
- 220,652
- Disclosures
- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
There is clearance for both the industry standard and "Jumbo" barrel plugs.
Unfortunately, just like some 1/4" plugs are not 1/4", some manufacturers choose to be creative with the size of the barrels. If you stick with any of the industry standard plugs, you will not have any problems.
As far as the switches being tight, there are a lot of features crammed into a fairly small space and this is one of the tradeoffs without simply removing features
Unfortunately, just like some 1/4" plugs are not 1/4", some manufacturers choose to be creative with the size of the barrels. If you stick with any of the industry standard plugs, you will not have any problems.
As far as the switches being tight, there are a lot of features crammed into a fairly small space and this is one of the tradeoffs without simply removing features
Yeah I could see how that might be an issue for some. I asked about removing the handles and I got the response I expected. The words “warranty” and “void” were 2 particular ones, so it quickly became a non issue. Plus all my cables are straight for the amp input.
My cables have straight jacks at the amp input too.
Just to be clear: it is not the size of the Analysis Plus 1/4" 'barrel plug' inserted end itself that is the problem.
It is the entire jack cover assembly that will not fit in next to the left handle, and it prevents the whole length of the 1/4" barrel plug from being inserted fully into the input jack.
Just to be clear: it is not the size of the Analysis Plus 1/4" 'barrel plug' inserted end itself that is the problem.
It is the entire jack cover assembly that will not fit in next to the left handle, and it prevents the whole length of the 1/4" barrel plug from being inserted fully into the input jack.
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Must be a rather large plug then. I’d be inclined to think you’re in the minority of owner who have this issue. Nonetheless, that sucks man.
a £5 neutrik jack end and twenty minutes with a soldering iron would solve that problem
Something everyone should already have in their parts bin....
- Feb 12, 2006
- 60,963
- 5
- 220,652
- Disclosures
- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
Maybe I'm not understanding this, but the term "barrel" is the shell covering the plug's terminations and not the sleeve part that inserts into the jack. The handle clearance to the barrel or shell will accept all reasonable sized plugs that I am aware of. If this plug is some kind of outlier, it will need to be replaced with something more industry standard. Both Switchcraft and Neutrik have proper parts that will fit.
By any chance does the cable itself have a stupid-big diameter also?
[edit - I just looked at that cable manufacturer's website... if it's the wood barrel or over-molded end, it's not going to fit. The wood barrel is freekin huge and the over-molded one also looks pretty large. My opinion of "esoteric" cable manufacturers and their claims is not very high in general, their information doesn't change my opinion].
Just buy a standard cable with Switchcraft or Neutrik plugs and Belden, Carol, Columbia, Rapco, Horizon, Proco or Canare cable and you will be good to go. Otherwise, you will not be able to use the amp with your existing plugs.
By any chance does the cable itself have a stupid-big diameter also?
[edit - I just looked at that cable manufacturer's website... if it's the wood barrel or over-molded end, it's not going to fit. The wood barrel is freekin huge and the over-molded one also looks pretty large. My opinion of "esoteric" cable manufacturers and their claims is not very high in general, their information doesn't change my opinion].
Just buy a standard cable with Switchcraft or Neutrik plugs and Belden, Carol, Columbia, Rapco, Horizon, Proco or Canare cable and you will be good to go. Otherwise, you will not be able to use the amp with your existing plugs.
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