• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

MOD102+ tube amp kit review

Last week I posted this thread that didn't get a whole lot of action:
*really* low wattage all tube practice amp?

I received that little MOD102+ kit on Friday and built it over the weekend. I built it as stock, except with a star grounding scheme. The stock grounding configuration leaves a lot to be desired IMO. Didn't take all that long and worked perfectly the first time I fired it up, but then this isn't my first rodeo with working on a tube amp. It is, however my first rodeo with building one from a kit. I admit I didn't really even read the directions, I just skipped to the final layout and started slinging solder. I must say though, that after looking at the directions and drawings included, they are stellar - although I built mine "out of order" versus the directions in a way that made more sense to me (i.e. setting up the ground scheme and wiring up the heaters first before soldering more components in). I think anybody with halfway decent soldering skills could build it. Anyway, "pics or it didn't happen", so here's a couple:

IMG_20160809_202628_439_zpsnpkdg2ii.gif


IMG_20160809_202817_983_zpsq4daz1jr.gif


So how does it sound? (Into my CTS loaded '66 B15 cab (the only 8 ohm cab I own)) It's bright. It's really bright. ICEPICK bright. Even with the treble knob backed all the down, it is downright unplayable unless I roll the tone knob off on my bass (something I never do). I'm talking P or 4001 with DR high beams here, nothing groundbreaking. I don't know WHY it's so bright, but I had to do something about it. I literally thought about ripping the entire tone stack out and replacing it with a baxandall one 10 minutes after I finished building it. But first I wanted to try something simple. I grabbed a .0068uF greenie from my parts drawer and shunted the grid of V1A to ground, creating a low pass filter right at the input (you can see it in the second pic on the top right). Now we're talking! Tone controls that are actually useable for bass now! I've always been more of a baxandall tone stack guy and never really was able to get any sounds that I liked out of a high wattage F/M/V stacked amp, but this little thing sounds pretty good! I may still play around with the components in the stack... or maybe I'll just leave it. And oh yeah, it'll do dirt. Full on splat if you want it to. And at somewhere in the neighborhood of 5-8W it won't rip your face off.

And so now I'm going to something even more unconventional. I'm going to order this:

Randall RG8 35W 1x8 Guitar Speaker Cabinet

Yes, I know it's a guitar cab. Yes, I know it might sound like crap for bass. But it's small, it looks cool (at least I think so), and I can always replace the speaker. I thought about the Orange PPC108 because it looks even cooler, but the randall is cheaper and is a little bit deeper for a little more internal volume. I'm building a tiny, low watt, all tube bass practice rig here - it's my money and I'll spend it how I want, dammit!

Kit pros: Cheap, good parts quality, great directions, easy to build, easy to mod.

Cons: 8 ohms only, no tube cage (Modkits should make this an option as hammond makes a matching cage, although it's another $40 - I have one on order).
 
It looks like a nice little amp.

Those power tubes are in a lot of bright amps such as those made by VOX. I suspect that the randall speaker is going to fart out pretty easily. An option that might help with the bass is a larger output transformer, same impedance.

The power tube bias resistor capacitor combination on the cathode catches my eye. I would experiment by shifting the bias. See what was done here. http://www.sewatt.com/files/sewatt/Acoustic_Bass.pdf
Biasing the EL84 explained: Valve Junior - Mods, Scratch Building, Biasing

Also check out sewatt Single-Ended Forums.

The amp is very similar to the epiphone valve jr but with a different tone stack. There are a lot of very well described mods for that amp, including people that use it for bass. Those that do are quite attached to it. Worth checking them out.

They don't call this a mod amp for nothin.
 
Last edited:
Nice job. I've been thinking about doing a little one with a 6SN7 split into push pull for power, just because I have an ancient Standel chassis that's been collecting dust for a decade or two, and a suitable Mercury output transformer that someone gave me. Hadn't really thought about using it for bass until now though.
 
Thanks guys.

Beans, I'll have to look into some of those Valve Jr mods you mentioned. I have heard of guys modding them for bass but never really dug into the details.

BTW if that Randall cab gets farty I've read that this is a pretty darn good, low cost option that would sound decent for bass:
"Dayton Audio PA200-8 8" Pro Woofer Speaker" from www.parts-express.com!

With an Xmax of only 3mm I might have to look around some more though...
 
Thanks guys.

Beans, I'll have to look into some of those Valve Jr mods you mentioned. I have heard of guys modding them for bass but never really dug into the details.

BTW if that Randall cab gets farty I've read that this is a pretty darn good, low cost option that would sound decent for bass:
"Dayton Audio PA200-8 8" Pro Woofer Speaker" from www.parts-express.com!

With an Xmax of only 3mm I might have to look around some more though...

I mentioned the farty speaker because my VibroChamp is like that. It's magic with guitar. When I connect another speaker though, it works well with bass.

As for the Dayton speaker, it depends how hard you push it. At low volumes, you never know.
 
The little Randall cab came last night.

IMG_20160816_211347_435-1_zpsru7d8y3l.gif


It actually sounds pretty good as tiny as it is! The amp isn't nearly as loud through it as my B-15 cab (to be expected), but the amp distorts far before the speaker does, even with the bass knob turned up. I might experiment some with bias and component tweaks later, but first I'm just gonna play through it for a while...
 
Thanks beans! I think it looks pretty cool, too. I'll snap another pic if the backordered tube cage ever shows up.

I'm okay with the scale of the logo. The logos on their 4x12 guitar cabs are huge. The color is another story. I'm gonna see if I can pop the logo off and spray it to match the amp chassis or at least get close.