Ok so ive have had my second hand Morley Pro Wah pedal for 6 months, initianly it sounded all right on bass, nothing to special. But i have been researching around on DIYforums on some mods for this bad, also i came up with my own mod. Now we all know that because these are designed for guitars mainly, that the bass response is not to flash. Heres the step by step on how to get much greater response from the bass. I think a lot of you guys will like what tone you get with these mods. I'am going to keep trying different mods and if I find some more then i will update this thread.
Materials Needed:
*DPDT switch
*18-24 guage wire (4 different colours, about 6cm long)
*Heat shrink
*A 5-10K trim pot
*2x 2.2K resistor
*A .100 uF Capicator
Tools Needed:
*Drill
*Soldering Iron
*Jeans (trust me solder doesnt go through these)
*Philips Head screw driver
*Patience
Step 1. (Increase in Bass response)
*Unscrew the 4 bolts from the sides of the base plate to gain access.
* Now that you have the board open, Look towards the input Jack and scan the board until you find the Polyester "Green Cap" capacitor, the stock is a .0047 uF. That is the Capacitor that you want to replace.
*There are another set of 4 bolts that hold the PCB board down, these need to be removed in order to get to remove the .0047 uF Capacitor. You may be able to to remove these nuts from the inside, the ones on mine didnt budge so I had to remove the Wah foot plate. This takes time and you should really get someone else to help you with this.
*Once you have access, just simply unsolder the original
.0047 Capicator and replace it
Alternative solution:
*If you already like the sound of the original Capicator, but still want to have the bass response. You could still wire up a switch in parallel to the original Capicator and have the .100 uF along that line. Then you can switch between the two of em. Pic below to show what to do:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Step 2. (LED Intensity controller) or what i like to call a Burton Boost
This is to control how bright the LED goes
*Next to the Wah Stomp switch there is a gap that with an inch gap, this is a perfect position to put the DPDT switch
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
*There is a 4.7K resistor for R28 (below the 2 green caps), leave this in and go to the back of the PCB where the resistor sits.
*Get the 4 lengths of wire and twist them to make it all tidy, now with the 2 pairs of twisted wires connect them to the the 2 ends of the 4.7K resistor (R28). Like so:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
*Pull these through the cut out section that the cardboard Wah controller part goes along.Pic to show where:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
*Now get a length of resistor or capacitor off cut (pretty much any component off cut) and thread that through the 2 holes that are blank for the LED,(L2,L1).Look on the back of the PCB board and there should be a track for the 2 that dont connect anywhere. This is where u solder the wire to, this does not alter the sound, it just provides a nice tie down for the wire.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
*Now this part of wiring is a bit tricky and will take some mucking around to get it right. The Switch I used is a
ON-OFF-ON, so I have the the original capacitor wired into the off position. The for the top ON position put in a 2.2K reisistor for a more intense LED. The bottom position ON is for a adjustable Intensity, so you can get an in between the original and highest intensity
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
*Take the time to work out how you want the switch to go, then when thats all sorted use a 2 pieces of heat shrink to cover the resistors or any other open wire that may conctact together and short out.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
*Drill a hole on the top about half an inch from the "On" LED for the wah, and fit your switch in.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
*Now reassemble your pedal back together, if it is all wired correctly you should have no problems.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
The Final result
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Materials Needed:
*DPDT switch
*18-24 guage wire (4 different colours, about 6cm long)
*Heat shrink
*A 5-10K trim pot
*2x 2.2K resistor
*A .100 uF Capicator
Tools Needed:
*Drill
*Soldering Iron
*Jeans (trust me solder doesnt go through these)
*Philips Head screw driver
*Patience
Step 1. (Increase in Bass response)
*Unscrew the 4 bolts from the sides of the base plate to gain access.
* Now that you have the board open, Look towards the input Jack and scan the board until you find the Polyester "Green Cap" capacitor, the stock is a .0047 uF. That is the Capacitor that you want to replace.
*There are another set of 4 bolts that hold the PCB board down, these need to be removed in order to get to remove the .0047 uF Capacitor. You may be able to to remove these nuts from the inside, the ones on mine didnt budge so I had to remove the Wah foot plate. This takes time and you should really get someone else to help you with this.
*Once you have access, just simply unsolder the original
.0047 Capicator and replace it
Alternative solution:
*If you already like the sound of the original Capicator, but still want to have the bass response. You could still wire up a switch in parallel to the original Capicator and have the .100 uF along that line. Then you can switch between the two of em. Pic below to show what to do:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Step 2. (LED Intensity controller) or what i like to call a Burton Boost
This is to control how bright the LED goes
*Next to the Wah Stomp switch there is a gap that with an inch gap, this is a perfect position to put the DPDT switch
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
*There is a 4.7K resistor for R28 (below the 2 green caps), leave this in and go to the back of the PCB where the resistor sits.
*Get the 4 lengths of wire and twist them to make it all tidy, now with the 2 pairs of twisted wires connect them to the the 2 ends of the 4.7K resistor (R28). Like so:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
*Pull these through the cut out section that the cardboard Wah controller part goes along.Pic to show where:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
*Now get a length of resistor or capacitor off cut (pretty much any component off cut) and thread that through the 2 holes that are blank for the LED,(L2,L1).Look on the back of the PCB board and there should be a track for the 2 that dont connect anywhere. This is where u solder the wire to, this does not alter the sound, it just provides a nice tie down for the wire.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
*Now this part of wiring is a bit tricky and will take some mucking around to get it right. The Switch I used is a
ON-OFF-ON, so I have the the original capacitor wired into the off position. The for the top ON position put in a 2.2K reisistor for a more intense LED. The bottom position ON is for a adjustable Intensity, so you can get an in between the original and highest intensity
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
*Take the time to work out how you want the switch to go, then when thats all sorted use a 2 pieces of heat shrink to cover the resistors or any other open wire that may conctact together and short out.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
*Drill a hole on the top about half an inch from the "On" LED for the wah, and fit your switch in.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
*Now reassemble your pedal back together, if it is all wired correctly you should have no problems.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
The Final result
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
