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MTD Buzz Feiten nut on zero fret bass seems redundant

#3
luckydawgg169 said:
So the whole point of that nut is that it's compensated to even out intonation on the fretboard ,however, if the strings break ( witness point) is on the zero fret, then, technically that's the nut, and it just turns the nut behind it into a string holder.
Am I missing something?
Click to expand...
Nope, you got it.
 
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#4
luckydawgg169 said:
So the whole point of that nut is that it's compensated to even out intonation on the fretboard ,however, if the strings break ( witness point) is on the zero fret, then, technically that's the nut, and it just turns the nut behind it into a string holder.
Am I missing something?
Click to expand...

Almost. The nut is not compensated but the zero fret is....it's tilted ever-so-slightly.

Riis
 
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#8
fretno said:
So.. The BF nut is not needed if the zero fret is repositioned? Other than for string spacing and keeping them in place.
Click to expand...

This is true. Of course, there's a concomitant intonation process as below:

Setting up your MTD Kingston bass
by Michael Tobias




Optimal set up is individual but I generally use the low B or E as a straight edge, holding it down at the 1st and 16th fret and adjusting the truss rod until there is about .010 - .015 space between the top of the 8th fret and the bottom of the string.

Then I adjust the high string so that it is 1/16 (2/32, 1.5mm) from the top of the last fret. I check for buzzing...if that is good then I adjust the rest of the strings following the curvature of the fingerboard and moving them up slightly until the low B is at 3/32 or about 2.5 mm.

The rest depends on your technique and attack. If you have a lighter touch you can get away with a lower action if you want. If you have a harder attack you will need to raise the action to keep the strings from buzzing.

Pick up heights are generally set by holding down the outside strings at the 24th fret and raising or lowering the bridge pick up to about 3/16 under the strings, top parallel to the strings when loose. Then I use the blend pot to raise or lower the neck pick up to match the output.

Buzz Feiten Tuning System Instructions

These tuning instructions are only applicable to MTD basses that include the Buzz FeitenTuning System. Luckily, all MTD Kingston basses come with the zero fret installed. These tuning instructions are only applicable to electronic tuners that include the Buzz Feiten Tuning System. Currently, this includes Peterson Tuners, starting with the VSI up to all current models; Planet Waves Tru-Strobe Tuners with Buzz Feiten
Tuning System; and Korg DT-7. With one of these tuners you can do the following:

When I string a bass or guitar with new strings, I usually stretch them for a bit before doing BFTS intonation…..play for about ½ hour or put them on and leave them overnight. Make sure the neck is set like you want and that the action is also set the way you like it. Tune the bass to pitch using the tuner.

Match the:

F string open at pitch against the F at the 12th fret 1 cent flat
C string open at pitch against the C at the 12th fret 1 cent flat
G string open at pitch against the G at the 12th fret 1 cent flat
D string open at pitch against the D at the 12th fret 1 cent flat
A string open at pitch against the A at the 12th fret 1 cent sharp
E string open at pitch against the B at the 7th fret 1 cent sharp
B string open at pitch against the F# at the 7th fret 1 cent sharp

If the note is sharp, that means the saddle is too close to the 12th fret, if it is flat then it is too far away
 
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#11
did BF intonation installs for years back when it came out, but there's a reason nobody cares anymore (including me)

just like any other clever offset scheme, it makes some notes sound better by making other notes sound worse

the nut (in this case the zero fret) might be moved slightly towards the bridge to "fix" the first few frets being sharp, but that can and should be fixed by filing that contact point properly so the string is not too high over the first fret to begin with. yes, even if it's a zero fret, all too often they'll put way too big a fret in as the zero fret causing bad action, that needs to be filed down just like any other high nut slot

were this bass mine i'd make sure the strings were properly low over the first fret, then tune and intonate normally
 
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#12
walterw said:
did BF intonation installs for years back when it came out, but there's a reason nobody cares anymore (including me)

just like any other clever offset scheme, it makes some notes sound better by making other notes sound worse

the nut (in this case the zero fret) might be moved slightly towards the bridge to "fix" the first few frets being sharp, but that can and should be fixed by filing that contact point properly so the string is not too high over the first fret to begin with. yes, even if it's a zero fret, all too often they'll put way too big a fret in as the zero fret causing bad action, that needs to be filed down just like any other high nut slot

were this bass mine i'd make sure the strings were properly low over the first fret, then tune and intonate normally
Click to expand...
Excellent observation, and a conclusion I came to as well. This is why I installed a
warwick just a nut 3 brass nut on my instrument. When I first got it, I did have to file little bit so it would match my fretboard radius but after that, easy peezy.
 

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