Mudd's possibly stupid intonation question

[My name is Mudd]

Apologies if this is one of those constant questions...the search engine didn't help much, and note that I DID say it may be a stupid question, OK?

I'm trying to learn to do basic setup adjustments for when I change strings, etc - when I adjust the saddles for intonation, should I loosen the string tension, tweak the saddle, and then re-tune, or adjust with the string under tune-tension?

 

[Staccato]

Mudd, the saddle height adjustment, and intonation screw are separate items on the bridge you've got?

If saddle height is already adjusted from the previous set of strings, and is deemed okay...

1. Tune the bass
2. Check intonation (12th fret for example)
3. Turn intonation screw to fine tune
4. Adjust tuner later (as needed) to remain in tune

 

[JTE]

Proper intonation setting is moving the saddle so that the fretted note at the 12th fret is an exact octave of the open string. You have no need to
loosen the string while working on this.

But just moving the saddle without retuning the string with each attempt won't set intonation. You have to constantly compare the fretted note to the open string (and the 12th fret harmonic IS an open string.

John

 

[Jimbob Jones]

There's no risk of snappage or any other damage from adjusting a saddle while under string tension.

 

[My name is Mudd]

Mudd, the saddle height adjustment, and intonation screw are separate items on the bridge you've got?

Yes, each bridge has separate adjustments for height and intonation. Also, each bass has previously been professionally set up with the specific strings they wear; what I'm wanting to do is dbl-check the setup after replacing worn strings with a new set of the same strings and adjust as needed.

Proper intonation setting is moving the saddle so that the fretted note at the 12th fret is an exact octave of the open string.

That's what I'm doing, or trying to.

You have no need to
loosen the string while working on this.

That's the part I wasn't sure of.

But just moving the saddle without retuning the string with each attempt won't set intonation. You have to constantly compare the fretted note to the open string (and the 12th fret harmonic IS an open string.

That part I also did know.

There's no risk of snappage or any other damage from adjusting a saddle while under string tension.

That's the other part I wasn't sure of.


Thank you, gentlemen...I appreciate it!

 

[SLaPiNFuNK]

Some bridges need a little "help" when adjusting the saddles, so after you do turn the screws, you may need to push the saddle into position... This is usually the case (on some bridges) when moving the saddle forwards.

 

[My name is Mudd]

Yeah I've noticed that, which is what made me wonder if I should loosen the string tension.

 

[SLaPiNFuNK]

Nope, don't need to. Just be sure once you move the saddle, you stretch the string, make sure nothing needs to be moved, re-tune the open string, check the intonation.

Its fun... but you will literally go back and forth a few times till you get used to it.

 

[My name is Mudd]

That's fine...this is all a learning experience for me.

 

[SLaPiNFuNK]

Just saying, that your not doing anything wrong if you find your self moving it back and forth.

 

[fretlessguy]

Electric Bass Guitar Setup Guide

Hipe this helps. Good luck.

 

[My name is Mudd]

I already have that, but thanks!

 

[bassbrizzle]

Based on the thread title and your name and mixing things around in my mind, I totally thought you were asking the best setup for playing the song my name is mud, haha. But sorry, can't answer your question.

 

[Skitch it!]

I check about 3 or 4 notes in different positions above the 12th with a tuner to see which way it's leaning, 2 things I've found over the years, fretting machines aren't perfect and wood shrinks. I check a range over the string not just one note.

 

[My name is Mudd]

Good thought there.

Just yesterday I put a new set of Roto flats on my Stiletto, after cleaning/oiling the fretboard, waxing the body, etc. This afternoon I'll check the intonation and junk, but it didn't look as if it's too far off when I sloppy-checked it last night.

 

[electracoyote]

If you have a Fender-style bent L or similar bridge assembly, when you back the screw out to decrease string length, be sure the screw seats itself flush against the back of the bridge plate. Sometimes you have to give it a push with the screw driver until it shifts forward.

I agree with those who do not lower tension on the strings as they adjust the saddle for string length/intonation.

 

[My name is Mudd]

Yeah, I've already noticed that the saddles or screws sometimes need a little gentle persuasion to reposition themselves properly.

 

[My name is Mudd]

Casting resurrection to ask if it's normal to have to move a saddle a BUNCH for intonation...I've been doing my 004 and the E-string saddle has been slammed back a lot more than I would have expected. Same string brand, gauge, etc as what it was pro-set-up with a couple of years ago, just a fresh set.

 

[Deathblade Eric]

Casting resurrection to ask if it's normal to have to move a saddle a BUNCH for intonation...I've been doing my 004 and the E-string saddle has been slammed back a lot more than I would have expected. Same string brand, gauge, etc as what it was pro-set-up with a couple of years ago, just a fresh set.

I've had the odd 'rogue' string that seems to need more adjustment to get it in. Usually the E or G for some reason.

With the E (& especially a low B) it might be that your tuner is having difficulty tracking it. Here's an alternative way...

Tune the whole thing up & intonate the G string;
Retune, unplug tuner & plug into amp;
On the D string, play a R5 double stop made of the 12th fret D & 14th fret A on the G. Adjust the D saddle & tuning until that harmonises with the G string;
Rinse & repeat for the A & E strings.

Pete.

 

[My name is Mudd]

I'll try that, and thanks!