Music Man StingRay Club | PART FIVE

[musicmaan]

Yep, that's a stock neck finish. The line you see and feel is where the gloss finish of the head stock, and the gun oil finish of the neck meet. I'm guessing that's a pre owned bass you have there, and so the darkness of the neck would be from dirty hands over playing the neck over time. A good cleaning and re oil should take care of most of that.

MM

 

[nervous]

Yep, that's a stock neck finish. The line you see and feel is where the gloss finish of the head stock, and the gun oil finish of the neck meet. I'm guessing that's a pre owned bass you have there, and so the darkness of the neck would be from dirty hands over playing the neck over time. A good cleaning and re oil should take care of most of that.

MM

Excellent and thank you. Chrome bits also need some cleaning as well but yhe bass is like new in every other way and i san amazing player.

What to clean and oil with?

 

[rojo412]

For the chrome parts, I couldn't stress this enough… Use Mothers Billet polish.
I restored the hardware on a 93 that I bought. Just a TINY bit of Mother's on a rag and a lot of elbow grease, and here's what it did...

BEFORE

AFTER

 

[nervous]

For the chrome parts, I couldn't stress this enough… Use Mothers Billet polish.
I restored the hardware on a 93 that I bought. Just a TINY bit of Mother's on a rag and a lot of elbow grease, and here's what it did...

BEFORE

AFTER

Very nice. That's s little of what I'm up against. I assume you disassembled them.

 

[rojo412]

For best results, yes. But if you were just doing the clovers, no need.

 

[nervous]

Any tips on cleaning and oiling the neck ?

 

[Dave W]

Any tips on cleaning and oiling the neck ?

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[Khronic]

Hey all. I have a Jay Turser MM copy that my local luthier defretted and set up for me. I didn't even notice how thin this stock P/U sounded until I played it side by side with my Peavey Millennium USA 4-string. I prefer to keep this Bass passive. Which P/U's should I consider as replacements?

 

[JEDI BASS]

Hey all. I have a Jay Turser MM copy that my local luthier defretted and set up for me. I didn't even notice how thin this stock P/U sounded until I played it side by side with my Peavey Millennium USA 4-string. I prefer to keep this Bass passive. Which P/U's should I consider as replacements?

SD Bassline

 

[nervous]

I am sure it's been covered and I have surprisingly found only a couple references to it though.

So, let me run this past the experienced:

I would really prefer to install a standard Switchcraft output hack to replace the seemingly frail stock box jack. Easy enough. However the surprise was that it is a 4 connector not three as the Switchcraft would be. I see that two of the connections are simply an pass through for the positive battery lead, that make contact when the plug is inserted. Have not encountered this set up before. Always the ring to sleeve activation.

So the question is if I can direct connect the two red positive leads and connect the negative battery lead to the ring as normal, maintaining all other grounds to the sleeve. My brain is telling me it's the same end result the only difference is which lead functions as the open/close switch.

Has anyone done this and am I missing anything?

 

[Dave W]

Try it and fine out. I have a a switchcraft in my pre EB Ray but that doesn't help you much.

I think I've had one output jack fail in 10 years of running Stingrays. It's not as frail as you think.

 

[nervous]

I think I've had one output jack fail in 10 years of running Stingrays. It's not as frail as you think.

I hear you. I just love the positive connection I get with the traditional jack. There's a noticeable solid feeling when you plug in. I dislike barrel jacks for the same reason. But have also had many of those that work just fine. So it's easy to overthink.

 

[nervous]

On another note, and back to a prior post, I was pleased with the results of my chrome cleaning project today. The quick backstory is that I bought this used and received it a few days ago. It was the oddest thing that based on its age (2010-11) the body, neck, fretboard and paint were beautiful and perfect. But every chrome or metal part had some degree of an unusual amount of grime, gunk, tarnish-like residue that was in every nook and cranny. No idea what would cause that.

Curiously the frets were some of the worst I've seen. No wear just flat ugly discoloration and I don't know what.

So after a few hours of disassembly, cleaning and light polishing I ended up with superb results. Now it's all in the condition I can live with. The tuner keys have a touch of honest tarnish from fingers but I'll try a little Simichrome down the road to see if I can improve them even more. I wish I took more before pics.

 

[KamilTW]

Hello,
This is my first post here (since i prefer to read than write, and been reading talkbass for a while as guest), in fact i just registered account.

I see some huge StingRay fan community with beautiful instruments, so i want to share with you pic of my 2 basses:

- '77 (i removed pickguard, and unfortunatelly don't own muting pads)
- '91 (matching headstock, which is really cool because this option was not in retail till i think '98)

 

[nervous]

Try it and find out.

Accepting your challenge, I did.

The result so far: Super easy job and it worked just fine.

 

[Tbone76]

Hello,
This is my first post here (since i prefer to read than write, and been reading talkbass for a while as guest), in fact i just registered account.

I see some huge StingRay fan community with beautiful instruments, so i want to share with you pic of my 2 basses:

- '77 (i removed pickguard, and unfortunatelly don't own muting pads)
- '91 (matching headstock, which is really cool because this option was not in retail till i think '98)

Beautiful basses, and welcome! You should be able to pick up a new mute assembly from EBMM, since they're using it currently on the Classic Series basses. Try giving them a call.

 

[Dave W]

Accepting your challenge, I did.

The result so far: Super easy job and it worked just fine.

Nice! Did you wire it like you had described?

 

[nervous]

Nice! Did you wire it like you had described?

Yup. All wires are very easy to identify. But I found the length of a couple, most notably the ground (black) and main output (white) from the PCB. So to both give me a little breathing room to work and to allow easy future jack access from the outside (although I'll probably never need it, but WTH) I added 22ga wire extensions. And since I'll also be swapping out the PG in a couple weeks having some extra room to work just makes things easier.

1) Solder the red (+) end of the battery box lead to the red PCB lead. This now directly connects the red battery box lead to the PCB.
2) Solder the black (-) end from the battery box to the TRS Ring lug. This now becomes the 'switch' for the 9v power.
3) Solder the White (main output) from the PCB to TRS Tip lug
4) Bundle and solder the 3 remaining black ground leads (PCB, Bridge, etc.) to the Sleeve TRS lug.

You will probably need to squeeze the jack lugs inward just a touch to cleanly fit in the hole but for me it was an easier fit than the stock box jack, which was quite tight.

Easy stuff.

 

[Tbone76]

Thanks! Believe it or not, that was my second choice: I spent ages rooting around for a Burnt Apple one, which is absolutely stunning, but unsurprisingly there were none to be had by the time I realised they existed. I feel I'm at risk of sounding a little churlish here though, I love both my Stingrays to bits.

Just a heads-up, it looks like a Burnt-Apple 4-stringer has popped up in the classifieds for $800 USD. No affiliation, but I thought I'd let you know.

EDIT: Here it is:
http://www.talkbass.com/index.php?t...4-String-Awesome-Flake-Burst-Finish!.1113778/

 

[fdorn]

I'm in. Picked this up Saturday.