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Music Man Stingray w/ weak G string

This might sound odd, but I've been thinking: if the G string problem really is a pickup issue, which seems likely, it might actually work better to LOWER the pole-pieces at the G string side, and then raise the whole pickup under the G. "What!?"
Think about how a pickup actually works. People make the (completely understandable) mistake of thinking of the pole-pieces as the 'sensors.' This is incorrect- the pole-pieces merely project a magnetic field up and around the strings. The sensing is done by THE COIL. So, it seems you need to get the coil closer to the string. Trouble is, by raising the pole-pieces, you may be inadvertently moving the field too high above the coil. Just a theory. I don't have a MM bass.
 
that has not been the case for me at all.

on all of my pickups, the magnets that are closer to the strings are the louder strings. that's why you'll see some pickups with radiused magnets to match the radius of the fingerboard. the famous vintage p bass pickup with the 'raised A' or staggered strat pickups also come to mind. Leo Fender actually gave me some magnet shims way back in '78 for my '76 stingray, to in effect, raise the weaker string's magnets, thus raising their volume.
 
Hate bumping an old thread, but it's better than opening another one.

Why do I always find these threads AFTER I make the purchase? Weak G's, deadspots, Weak E's, cutting out amplifiers, etc... ._.

Shaloam! I have 6 Music Man basses with a 7th being built right now. Never had a single problem yet. If you do, contact their customer service as they are top notch.
 
25+ of these have made it through my hands, not a weak one ever.
I still believe its the way folk set their amp eq's or something close to it. I play all my various brand basses through the same amps set at the same eq's, and not a bit of difference.
 
I still believe its the way folk set their amp eq's or something close to it.

+1, or their playing technique, or the way they have their bass set up.

Fact is the Stingray is one of the best basses around to play funk and disco on, much of which involves the G string in octaves - and they patently do not sound weak and thin - far from it!!

Also, if you play slap and pop style, the popping doesn't sound thin - unless you over-scoop your EQ (unlike some other basses which just do sound thin when played in this way).
 
It's not the amp or playing technique. My '94 Ray has this problem--I've been playing for 20+ years and own other basses that clearly don't have the issue. The newer 'Rays that I've played don't have it, I've noticed.

Solving it was easy though--I lowered the A and D pole pieces and angled the pickup so the G side is much closer to the strings than the E side, and it's perfect now.
 
sawzalot said:
It's not the amp or playing technique. My '94 Ray has this problem--I've been playing for 20+ years and own other basses that clearly don't have the issue. The newer 'Rays that I've played don't have it, I've noticed.

Solving it was easy though--I lowered the A and D pole pieces and angled the pickup so the G side is much closer to the strings than the E side, and it's perfect now.

Indeed. To me it's more of a setup thing.
Angling The pickup towards the G helps. I also find it important to maintain that angle but bring the pickup down, increasing the overall distance between pickup and strings. When the pickup is farther away, it seems it's much easier to balance the sound between strings. And finally, string gauge. A 45-105 is easier than a 40-100.
Simply going up on the G from 40 to 45 does not feel very different, but it has a bit stronger output.

That's why I think some people hear a problem and others don't, because not two basses are set up the same way. And also why newer ones in shops seem not to have this problem so much, as they tend km have the same setup from factory, and EBMM likes consistency.
 
I sold my Ray because of that. I found out that you can mitigate this problem by:
- Using DR Hi-Beams strings
- Not scooping the mids too much on the eq

But it never really disappear. It does not seem to be as bad with the 2 band preamp and even better with the Classic

I tried to adjust the pickup height but whatever the position it did not improve the problem. If I had kept the Ray I would have replaced the pickup by an Alnico after-market pickup.
 
is the weak G string a problem on any MusicMan bass with the basic Stingray pickup layout? i mean the Bongo H, Big Al H, Reflex H, etc.

No it has nothing to do with pickup layout, it is a design decision, the G magnets are weaker resulting in less output from the G string (by about 20%).

Anyone with access to a gauss meter run it over them and check for yourself.

Not all MM pickups are the same, the SUB (well certainly my SUB4) does not suffer from it, my SR5 does.
 
I can't believe I spent the morning reading this entire thread. But other than the pointless bashing of EBMM, its fans and Sterling Ball, I learned a few things. Now, if I may, I'd like to share what I've learned after 40+ years of playing, during which I've owned eight EBMM basses of various stripes and vintages. But first, a few thoughts on the Stingray pre-amp.

The best advice I've seen over the years on getting good tone came from a long-ago Jeff Berlin column in BP. He suggested running the amp fairly hot and using a lighter touch on the bass. I adopted this method years ago and have found it particularly useful when playing my EBMM basses. I always used to run the volume full out on 'Rays with the bass and highs boosted as much as I could. This gave me the signature 'Ray tone but didn't leave any room for adjustment and usually resulted in the weak G issue. In time, I found that if I kicked up the amp and ran the volume on the bass around half, it allowed far more range of tone from the preamp. For example, if I wanted more of a burpy Jaco-esque tone, I'd turn the instrument's bass and treble controls almost completely off then crank the volume on the bass to full to make up for the loss of low and high end. When I wanted to go back to more of a typical 'Ray tone, I'd turn the bass and treble back up, but drop the volume back to around half to compensate for the apparent increase in volume with the EQ boosted. I think that too often players crank everything full on their 'Rays and can't figure out why the G is often out of whack with the rest of the strings (these are usually the same people who call Stingrays a one-trick pony, IMO).

Now, other than making sure the bass is set up properly with decent strings, I found different work-arounds to compensate for any weak G (which, frankly, all my Rays had, 4 string or 5, vintage or modern). The easiest was to put on a set of fairly bright flats. That solved the G problem every time but, to me at least, effectively neutered the 'Ray and took away from its best characteristics (zingy top end, punchy but not overly fat lows). On my 3-band models strung with rounds, I always ran the bass and treble slightly boosted, the mids slightly cut. Loved the tone until I had to use the G, which was simply not there in most band situations. Simple solution was to reach down and crank the mids slightly (or a lot). Back came the G string, but I didn't care for the tone on the other strings, nor did I like having to constantly re-EQ the bass, sometimes in the middle of a tune.

In the end, of the eight EBMMS I've owned the only one left is a 94 fretless SR5 which I love a lot. However, I usually run it in single coil mode with the mids boosted full, the bass flat and the treble almost completely off. There's no weak G, but this particular bass has a nasty dead zone (not a spot, a zone) on the G between the B and the C sharp. I do my own setups, but am contemplating having a good tech set it up with some different strings than the D'Addario nickel rounds that are currently on there.

As for the EBMM forum, I lurked there for a couple of years but rarely posted and haven't looked at it in a couple of years. I certainly understand the company's reluctance to allow discussions of non-EBMM replacement parts, but I don't understand why you can't discuss different string brands. To me, Ernie Ball strings are okay but nothing special. I think it would be valuable to hear what strings EBMM users like best on their 'Rays, Bongos etc. After all, good strings are the cheapest initial way to address any bass's issues, whether it's a weak G or a dead spot/zone.
 
I acquired a used Stingray a few days ago. It has a Status Graphite neck. Played a gig with it last night, and it had MAJOR dead spot(s) on the g string particularly at the D, D#, and E.

Today I fixed the dead spots. They are no longer significant.

Maybe I lucked out, but after my gig I got in a quiet room and spent a couple of hours getting to know the fingerboard, both amplified and unamplified. Here's what I did:

#1) Put new strings on it. Medium gague nickel strings that I had laying around. The strings that were on the bass were very light and very old. That improved the situation a little.

#2) Next, I angled the pickup height in favor of the G string. This did make the G string louder, but the D and A strings were too loud in comparison. A lot of people angle the height of their pickup to fix the "classic Stingray G string dilhemma", but this causes imbalance in volume because the pole pieces are arched.
SO...to compensate for this imbalance one must re-adjust the individual pole piece height.

#3) I took the strings off, took the pickup out, disassembled it, and lightly tapped the D and A string pole pieces with a hammer until they lowered. I had to reassemble and repeat the process a couple of times before I found the right formula.

Voila. The sound and balance of the instrument was greatly improved, and my adjustments NEARLY ELIMINATED the weak sounding G string and dead spot syndrome. I won't yet say completely eliminated until I put it through another gig test this weekend. Gotta have a real-world test with a full band and hear the bass with a kick drum.

I'm not sure if this combo of adjustments will work for everyone with weak G issues, but it certainly worked for me. One thing that I did not have to do is adjust the truss rod. Apparently a slight adjustment in neck tension/relief might have a big influence on resonance and subsequent weak areas of the neck.

Also, for anyone that has ever questioned whether or not graphite necks are prone to dead spots, the answer is yes, in my first hand experience. It seems to be all about the resonant frequencies of the neck regardless of material --in combination with all other sound producing factors of the bass.