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MXR Iso-Brick

#301
adamaarts said:
Update: Been going strong with this method. I put a dot of super glue as well so they don't get moved.

Regarding issues I see with the power supply, I plug everything on my board into a power strip and mount it underneath. That way I'm not constantly fumbling around with the wall wart. It is flimsy and cheap and I don't trust that to last long at all if it was loose.
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Problem is, many of us don't have the space for a power strip. At least the laptop style power cord you get with the Strymon PSU's is meant to be moved around.

It took 2 months to get a replacement IsoBrick from Dunlop after mine crapped out. While waiting I bought a Truetone CS12. Better form factor, hefty power cable, and zero problems.
 
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#303
J Posega said:
Problem is, many of us don't have the space for a power strip. At least the laptop style power cord you get with the Strymon PSU's is meant to be moved around.

It took 2 months to get a replacement IsoBrick from Dunlop after mine crapped out. While waiting I bought a Truetone CS12. Better form factor, hefty power cable, and zero problems.
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Yea definitely not a perfect product.
 
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#304
This is not an excuse of its flaws, but the MXR has some voltage/current combos that you can't get in many other PSUs, like the high-current 18V one. In my setup I could not swap out the MXR for a Truetone.
 
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#305
I Have had one of these for a bit over a year. yesterday I turned on the pedal board and everything was fine for about one minute then the power supply shut off. Unplugged it and powered it back up and it did the same thing . Now it seems like this is all it will do. Did it just become a door stop/paperweight? Any suggestions on if I should bother getting it repaired or just get something different?
 
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#306
Nighttrain1127 said:
I Have had one of these for a bit over a year. yesterday I turned on the pedal board and everything was fine for about one minute then the power supply shut off. Unplugged it and powered it back up and it did the same thing . Now it seems like this is all it will do. Did it just become a door stop/paperweight? Any suggestions on if I should bother getting it repaired or just get something different?
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It could be the power supply, not the Iso-Brick itself. I had to replace it once my own self. Hard to say without being there and I don't know how to troubleshoot it except for trying another PS, and the one it uses is 18v and I don't know if a 9v PS like the 1-Spot would work to test it out. At any rate, you can always contact Dunlop CS for guidance.
 
#307
Nighttrain1127 said:
I Have had one of these for a bit over a year. yesterday I turned on the pedal board and everything was fine for about one minute then the power supply shut off. Unplugged it and powered it back up and it did the same thing . Now it seems like this is all it will do. Did it just become a door stop/paperweight? Any suggestions on if I should bother getting it repaired or just get something different?
Click to expand...
When mine crapped out, the white LED on the brick was blinking slowly.
 
#308
Nighttrain1127 said:
I Have had one of these for a bit over a year. yesterday I turned on the pedal board and everything was fine for about one minute then the power supply shut off. Unplugged it and powered it back up and it did the same thing . Now it seems like this is all it will do. Did it just become a door stop/paperweight? Any suggestions on if I should bother getting it repaired or just get something different?
Click to expand...


Just about the same thing happened to me Friday (previous post). I went for a 1Spot CS-7.
 
#310
I'd just buy this honestly if I was in need:

7139897_800.jpg

Harley Benton Power Plant for just about 44$ in Thomann (one of Europes biggest musical equipment stores).

Admittedly it doesn't have quite the same features, and I guess the draining function of the Iso-Brick is a cool feature that could come in handy, on the other hand it is only a faction of the price, if the Harley Benton indeed got all the features you'll need.

Then again you could just buy one of these:

9778343_800.jpg


Ajutable voltage from 3V to12V, 600mA, and switchable polarity, if you needed to starve a pedal.

Since I assume it is limited how many pedals on your board you would want to starve.

And it's only about 10$ in Thomann.
 
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#311
That Powerplant's 8 9v outputs only do a total of 500 mA, plus they're not isolated. Some people's boards may only need 500 mA and no isolation, but if you don't need isolation, might as well just get a 1-Spot and a daisy chain at that rate, unless you really need 12v. I don't but I guess some do. But the 1-Spot will do 1700 mA.
 
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#312
I have procrastinated for over a year now over a Power supply purchase. I am using 2 1 spots currently. 1 for my Zoom MS-60B, and 1 for everything else, which includes my VT BD and a Line 6 G50. I am starting to think my best option is a Strymon Ojai. 5 x 500mA outputs totally isolated. 1 for the MS-60B, 1 for the G50, and the other 3 outputs to daisy chain the rest of the pedals. It uses a 24V power supply apparently.
 
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#313
Frayed power cord on my ISO-Brick wall wart killed my board at my last gig. The wall wart design was bad enough but not having a half-decent cable running from the power adapter is ridiculous. Mine is out of warranty and the only Dunlop wall warts I see for sale are for individual pedals and only go up to 500 mA. Looks like I'll have to get an off brand power adapter. If I do, I'll probably go for a flat one mounted under my board with a universal cable.
 
#314
BartmanPDX said:
Frayed power cord on my ISO-Brick wall wart killed my board at my last gig. The wall wart design was bad enough but not having a half-decent cable running from the power adapter is ridiculous. Mine is out of warranty and the only Dunlop wall warts I see for sale are for individual pedals and only go up to 500 mA. Looks like I'll have to get an off brand power adapter. If I do, I'll probably go for a flat one mounted under my board with a universal cable.
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Sounds like problem solved. Let us know what you get.
 
#316
^That's the model number for my Sweetwater replacement, says it works with the Brick or the ISO-Brick. They are about $20 no matter where you buy.
 
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#317
Adamixoye said:
@BartmanPDX I think it's this one if want to buy the original:
Invalid Link Removed
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That's not the same model number as my original one but it looks like it should work perfectly, so thanks very much.

I think I might also get the flat notebook-power-supply-lookalike model just to see if I can fit it under the board and have a more robust solution than another failure-prone wall wart.
 
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