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My luthier disagrees with stretching strings...

#41
Steveaux said:
I tune my new strings a half-step sharp, noodle on them for a while, re-tune a half step sharp, noodle, tune to pitch, go.

The whole process takes about a twenty minutes. The strings set well and I haven't noticed any reduction in string life.
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Ditto ..i dont go hog wild on it..half step sharp.play a couple of the more aggressive song i play as i normal would then drop it back down a step..i have personally always done this not to "stretch strings" but to have the strings settle around the tuner which is where most of the initial loss of tuning comes from..its not the strain on the strings, those bad boys (epsecially agressive rounds) have to manipulate around their own ridges and settle into the coil where theyre gonna sit til you take em off.

the part that bothers me is that you said when you brought it up to your guy he got kind of matter of fact about the whole thing...its your gear and your money in his pocket and you have every right to ask any questions behind his work especially if you found something off putting.
 
#42
I did not complain, really, I just called and asked. They also were a pissed P-ed off that I brought my strings, as I use D'Addario medium flat and they don't sell them. I don't mind the DR they sell, but I play flatwounds :)

I will bring it back to them next time I need a setup (I usually do my own setups unless I can't figure it out).
 
#48
I just put mine on tune to pitch then retune when necessary until the new strings are settled in.

I don't stretch them because it's bad for the string or anything like that, it's just always made sense to me that when you tune you're adding tension to the string hence stretching it. Besides that, it doesn't take them long to settle in and stay in tune.
 
#49
JimmyM said:
Little did we know that there WAS something not quite like other guys...we found that out one warm summer night in Sarasota ;)
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doh.jpg
 
#51
lethargytartare said:
I'm in the "don't stretch any more" camp -- bass and guitar. I don't do any seating or bending at the bridge or nut either.
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stretching we can argue about, but by not seating the strings so they bend sharply at the bridge and nut, you're playing on strings that are not actually straight along their entire vibrating length.

this will make the action higher than it should be and throw off the intonation.

i've also found that making sure the string bends sharply where the last wrap comes off the tuning key post removes more stored slack, improving tuning stability.
 
#52
walterw said:
stretching we can argue about, but by not seating the strings so they bend sharply at the bridge and nut, you're playing on strings that are not actually straight along their entire vibrating length.

this will make the action higher than it should be and throw off the intonation.

i've also found that making sure the string bends sharply where the last wrap comes off the tuning key post removes more stored slack, improving tuning stability.
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All I said is I don't do it -- never have, and never will (simply because I don't see any value to it). And I've never had problems with my intonation or action (guess I can add the perfunctory "I've been playing for 22 years" tidbit). I set up all my own guitars and basses, and have never had any issues.
 
#54
lethargytartare said:
All I said is I don't do it -- never have, and never will (simply because I don't see any value to it). And I've never had problems with my intonation or action (guess I can add the perfunctory "I've been playing for 22 years" tidbit). I set up all my own guitars and basses, and have never had any issues.
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having issues and noticing issues is two different things.

next time you restring, look closely at the lowest string where it hits the nut and the saddle; you'll likely find it curving a little ways before it straightens out in the middle. if you then push on it a little on each side of the contact point so that the vibrating portion of the string is dead straight from end to end (then retune), you'll likely notice it playing and staying in tune slightly better.

i say "slightly" because it isn't a big difference, but it is a difference, and catching all the "slight" differences is what separates a mediocre setup from a good one.
 
#55
Hi Y'all.... Brand new to the forum and this is my first post. When I install new strings, I will tune to pitch... gently grab the string near the bridge with thumb and for-finger and pull up and away gently from the fingerboard while sliding my fingers with pressure toward the nut. This (in my mind) will eliminate kinks or bruising on any particular section of the string and place needed tension on the break angle at the bridge saddle and the loose wrapping on the tuners. Usually I will need to do this 2 or 3 times before natural tuning to pitch for correction is needed to settle the strings. Generally the bass will stay relatively in tune after this process.

Having said that, I welcome any rebuttal to this method. I use this on both round wound and flat wound and have not experienced any degradation in fundamental or sustain.

Replies welcome....

Great forum guys.

Cheers
 
#59
walterw said:
having issues and noticing issues is two different things.

next time you restring, look closely at the lowest string where it hits the nut and the saddle; you'll likely find it curving a little ways before it straightens out in the middle. if you then push on it a little on each side of the contact point so that the vibrating portion of the string is dead straight from end to end (then retune), you'll likely notice it playing and staying in tune slightly better.

i say "slightly" because it isn't a big difference, but it is a difference, and catching all the "slight" differences is what separates a mediocre setup from a good one.
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That's been my experience, as well. I've found it more evident at the bridge saddle as the string has the tendency to make a "lazy loop" as it passes. Even more so when dealing with a string-thru configuration. Once roughly tuned and intonated, I press the string just ahead of the saddle to create the aforementioned witness point and re-tweak as necessary. I really need to pay more attention to the nut in the same manner.

Riis
 

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