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My new FMT !

#21
No, I don't think that will be the case...I asked Bob at Musicians Buy if I could return if something was wrong and he said yes...they have a decent return policy there... I think that not being able to tighten truss rod anymore than how it came qualifies as something wrong.

But here is the problem...there is no way I could sit in a store, lower the action down like 5 turns with the allen key, get to the point invariably on wood necked basses when the upper frets start to buzzout, and then ask the store clerk to take a truss tool out and straighten the neck back and forth until it feels right...it took me about 2 hours of shimming etc. to determine that there was no way this bass could be adjusted to meet my needs...all I need is like a 1/4 turn on that truss and I can't get it! :( So essentially, I have to perform this iteration again with a new bass. No stores areound where I live carry these basses on teh wall to go and try out. There are two guitar centers and 2 Sam Ash's close by too.

-pd

Originally posted by Nino-Brown
Very nice looking bass, but I like Munjibunga quilt. AWESOME!!!!!! I hope the place you bought it from dosen't try to shift blame to you & not return the bass!!!! I've seen that happen too often. :(
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#24
No, I mean 5 turns on the bridge saddle allen screws!

I can't turn the truss AT ALL. It arrived totally maxed out.

Sux, cause the rest of this bass totally kicks ass. HAve to mak another attempt.

-pd

Originally posted by Brad Johnson
Good luck on the next one.

Five turns sounds pretty excessive... I can go from a forward to a back bow in much less than that. I've got mine set almost straight with the strings low and so far it's been great. Nice looking bass, Peter.
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#26
Gonna return the bass, and I ordered two others so I could keep the best of the two

It seems that there is a heel warp on this bass, in addition to the maxed out truss rod.

Musician's Buy is great to work with...much easier than Musican's Friend.

Thanks everyone, I will give the report when I get the other two this week.

-pd
 
#27
Originally posted by pd_5string
No, I mean 5 turns on the bridge saddle allen screws!

I can't turn the truss AT ALL. It arrived totally maxed out.

Sux, cause the rest of this bass totally kicks ass. HAve to mak another attempt.

-pd
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So what happened when you turned the trussrod in the opposite direction? Just curious.
 
#30
I would have to take the neck off for that...seems that the screw starts to come out, and the screw gets easier to turn.

What would that accomplish?

Just to keep things straight, loosening would be counterclockwise, tightening is clockwise.

-pd

Originally posted by Brad Johnson
What happens if you go to the extreme in the "loosening" direction?
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#31
Originally posted by pd_5string
I would have to take the neck off for that...seems that the screw starts to come out, and the screw gets easier to turn.

What would that accomplish?

Just to keep things straight, loosening would be counterclockwise, tightening is clockwise.

-pd
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You'd be able to see the full amount of travel available. From what you're saying, loosening the rod two turns has the screw flush with the end of the neck. If you can only turn two turns in the opposite direction that would mean you only have two turns of adjustment total, which doesn't really sound right.

What I'm asking is what state is the neck in when you completely loosen the rod and what state is it in when you completely tighten it?
 
#32
It isn't that two turns makes it stop, I just went two turns to see what the resistance would be in the loosening direction, or to unfreeze something if it was locked up.

I can see though that if I kept going I would probably have to remove the neck. When fully tightened, the neck has the usual slight bow in it. I talked to Joe Zon about this actually and he says that the neck should actually be BEYOND straight when you tighten a truss all the way (i.e., slightly convex rather than concave). I can't even make it dead straight.

What I am used to is basically string height that very gradually increases as you go into the upper registers, or at least stays consistent. On this bass, the string height lowers dramatically after about the 17th fret and once it gets to the 21st fret, there is no vibration at all. It also looks as if there is a warp in the heel as well.

Anyhoo, I ordered TWO more basses one from Musicians Buy (drop shipped from Fender) and one from Musician's Friend...I will see which one is the best and return the other. Hopefully ONE of them will turn out ok.

-pd

Originally posted by Brad Johnson


You'd be able to see the full amount of travel available. From what you're saying, loosening the rod two turns has the screw flush with the end of the neck. If you can only turn two turns in the opposite direction that would mean you only have two turns of adjustment total, which doesn't really sound right.

What I'm asking is what state is the neck in when you completely loosen the rod and what state is it in when you completely tighten it?
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#33
Originally posted by pd_5string
It isn't that two turns makes it stop, I just went two turns to see what the resistance would be in the loosening direction, or to unfreeze something if it was locked up.

I can see though that if I kept going I would probably have to remove the neck. When fully tightened, the neck has the usual slight bow in it. I talked to Joe Zon about this actually and he says that the neck should actually be BEYOND straight when you tighten a truss all the way (i.e., slightly convex rather than concave). I can't even make it dead straight.

Not necessarily. It depends on the type of trussrod. Some won't go convex.
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#35
Originally posted by pd_5string
How about Fender's should they go convex? I mean what if someone were to put on heavy guage strings and string through the body, you would need the neck to be straighter to accomodate the extra amount of torque right?

-pd
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I don't know if it's true for all Fenders but it is for some. I'd try it on my FMT but I don't want to take a chance at nicking the finish.
 

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