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My New Studio Build (perhaps overly detailed)

I'm going to play the part of a tease in this post...

Circumstances have changed. I'm about to leave for Iceland for a couple weeks, but as soon as I get back I'll be able to march full steam ahead on the studio. Everything is fully funded. I got the dough, so let's go!

More to come in September.
Congrats on the trip and the funding!

I'm house sitting for friends and they bought a house way too big for their needs. It's got a full finished basement that could easily be converted to a pretty substantial live room, an iso room, and control room. If I were staying in this area, I'd convince them to do it.
 
It's got a full finished basement that could easily be converted to a pretty substantial live room, an iso room, and control room. If I were staying in this area, I'd convince them to do it.
Maybe when they get back they'll find that you've constructed a studio for them down there. How convenient! :p

When we were buying our current house I looked at a few places with large finished basements as potential studio space. The problem with them in the Seattle area is that most basements we saw tended to only be about 7' high, or in some cases even less. I'm very tall at 6'-6", so it was immediately evident how a pair of overheads would be negatively impacted by ceiling reflections when mic'ing up a drum kit.
 
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Maybe when they get back they'll find that you've constructed a studio for them down there. How convenient! :p

When we were buying our current house I looked at a few places with large finished basements as potential studio space. The problem with them in the Seattle area is that most basements we saw tended to only be about 7' high, or in some cases even less. I'm very tall at 6'-6", so it was immediately evident how a pair of overheads would be negatively impacted by ceiling reflections when mic'ing up a drum kit.

Yes, ceiling height is usually the big issue with home and semi-pro studio spaces. Even if they spent a lot on acoustic treatments. Good enough for recording almost anything but drums. So, if you are lucky enough to have a nice room with high ceiling, start focusing on recording drums.
 
I'm going to have the electrician bring power to the building, install the sub-panel, install the exterior lighting, wire in a sauna for my house, and add a motion light in front of my wife's office. That'll be enough to get him on-site and working, but I'm going to stop him after that work is finished. From there I'll be able to construct all of the hardscaping out front, finish out the interior partition wall upper triangle framing, get that insulated, add the unfortunately necessary middle leaf of drywall to the ceiling, and hopefully by then have my sound isolation method picked out...

...I still can't decide if I want to try and build the John Sayers inside-out walls or stick with Whisper Clips and hat channel. I've been going back and forth on it quite a bit lately. The clips/channel approach would be simpler to build, more expensive, will take up SLIGHTLY more floor space after the acoustic treatments are in-place, wouldn't offer as good isolation, and would be easier to part out the treatments if I ever move. The inside-out walls would offer better isolation, will take up SLIGHTLY less floor space, will offer an integrated space for acoustic treatments, would make parting out the treatments very difficult if I ever move, will be cheaper, will be more difficult to build, and comes with a structural engineering concern that I'm not qualified to answer, and would therefore require a consultant engineer, specifically a structural PE.

Decisions decisions decisions...
 
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Important considerations in determining how much soundproofing is required.

How much noise is outside your building.
How much sound do you want your neighbors to hear.

If you move, any chance that you can take the studio with you vs starting again.

On the plus side, sound treatments are portable.

If you sell the property, how much would it devalue the outbuilding if you removed the soundproofing. You might have to drywall it to make it look more presentable. Seems that offering a soundproofed building would be a positive selling point. You'll probably never get out what you put into it. Unless it is marketed as a home with a studio.

Trade-offs, trade-offs, trade-offs...
 
Did you do your Iceland trip? If so, how was it?
Incredible. Not at all what we were expecting, and I say that in a good way. The people were very nice, albeit quite stoic as I've heard is common among Scandinavian countries. The food was quite possibly the best food I've ever had in my entire life. They have almost no imports of fresh food into the country so if you're eating fish or lamb (those two comprise most of the diet) it was practically guaranteed to be fresh. We stayed two nights on a working farm in a guesthouse and were treated to food that was raised, slaughtered, prepared and served all within a few kilometer radius. We ate raw smoked lamb one night and it was mind blowing. The scenery was astonighly beautiful. Even the places that were desolate and barren (think Hawaiian lava fields covered in gray/green moss and an ambient temperature of 55-degrees farenheit) there was a strange beauty to it all. Communicating and driving was a piece of cake. The flight was long and boring, but at least it was direct. We'll definitely be back, but we won't likely do the entire ring road again. Instead we'll hang out in our 2-3 favorite places for multiple nights each. Totally worthwhile. Ungodly expensive, but still totally worthwhile.
 
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Important considerations in determining how much soundproofing is required.
Absolutely. It's a topic I've spent much time considering.

How much noise is outside your building.
It's adjacent to an alley that three houses use for access, two of which will drive the full length of the studio before turning into their driveway/garage. Garbage and recycling trucks use the alley as well, but fortunately they come on Tuesday mornings when I'm almost always at my office and never working in the studio. Other than that it's quite quiet. So the noise is intermittent, but when it occurs it's substantial. Potentially take-ruiningly substantial. In that regard, sound isolation is VERY important.

How much sound do you want your neighbors to hear.
It's not too big of a concern as I'm friends with all of my neighbors and they know what I'm building. That said, the neighbor closest to the studio is a crotchety old man in his mid-80s who's the most hateful, racist, mysoginistic, xenophobic, bigoted awful creature I think I've ever met. His mental health is breaking down, which is quite sad to see, but I can't say that I'll miss the seemingly endless tirades of him standing in his front yard and screaming "god damnit!" on an endless loop for (seriously) 20-minutes at a time or until someone calls the cops on him. It's a really bizarre situation. Still for whatever reason, he's decided that I'm one of the few people on the planet that he likes. Still, I don't want him to get irritated by the sound and make living next to him even more "interesting" than it already is. So again, sound isolation is a big deal here.

If you move, any chance that you can take the studio with you vs starting again.
Nope. It's a fixed installation. People do move houses from time to time, but I think that comes with having more money than sense in a lot of cases.

On the plus side, sound treatments are portable.
Therein lies one of the rubs. If I do the Whisper Clips and hat channel the treatments would absolutely be portable. In fact, I would likely take them down, say "screw the sound isolation" and cut in a couple windows to make it more appealing as a general artist's studio space, man cave, she shed, etc. If I do the John Sayers inside-out wall design the treatments become part of the wall. It's a more elegant AND effective solution, however the end result is something that I would have to practically destroy in order to disassemble and any salvaged materials would just be raw building materials, not neatly packaged acoustic treatments.

If you sell the property, how much would it devalue the outbuilding if you removed the soundproofing. You might have to drywall it to make it look more presentable. Seems that offering a soundproofed building would be a positive selling point. You'll probably never get out what you put into it. Unless it is marketed as a home with a studio.
I don't think sound isolation will add anything to resale value. It's far too specific. I'd just cut in some windows and call it a life.

Trade-offs, trade-offs, trade-offs...
Indeed. That's the way it goes with studio building. Actually... Talking through those points above have me leaning towards clips despite the decreased isolation potential and VERY slight loss of floor space as a result. I know we won't stay in this house forever, so I might as well plan for the future. We'll see... My mood changes like the weather in Iceland :p
 
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dude great news man!!! glad you found that tree that grows money :)
It also grows caveats, risks and consternation, haha. It's a very complex tree.

i myself am looking at buying my first home in the next 6 months, so this thread will have extra significance (although it's most likely since i'm in the midwest i'll have a basement and that will be the cheapest way to do it).
We have lots of basements here in Seattle as well, but they're commonly not full height. Typically around 7' from concrete floor to bottom of joists is about all you can hope for in a lot of older homes. We toured one home where the master bedroom, living room, a guest bedroom, and a bathroom were all downstairs. The ceiling was so low that anywhere I encountered a smoke detector I had to veer out of the way. I'm a tall guy at 6'-6", but that was ridiculous.

Had a basement build been viable I absolutely would have gone that route as it would have saved a TON of money. We very briefly considered one house that had a full height basement that would have worked brilliantly for my needs. We decided that since it was listed just below the top of our budget that trying to buy it would be a waste of time. We were right. It was listed something like $15,000 below the top of our budget and when it sold it went for $135,000 over the top of our budget :wideyed:
 
Electrician's scope of work defined. I'm sending him the specs on all of the major equipment used in the studio so we can size the sub panel appropriately, and then it's just a matter of getting on the work schedule and digging a trench for the electrical conduit ahead of his arrival. Starting to move again!
 
Load calcs are done. Looks like we'll be going with a 100-amp sub panel in the studio. The panel in my house that this will attach to is enormous, and since I'm on natural gas for most of the heat sources (the dryer and the microwave are the only electrically heated devices in the house) I use very little of it. Plenty of space. Should work great. My electrician is confirming his schedule so he can let me know when he'll be out. I'll need to dig a trench for the electrical conduit prior to his arrival, but other than that it should be a slam dunk.
 
What... A... Day... Whew... Exhausted... drool <- That's me deliriously drooling.

I'm very excited to post a real day of studio work again. I had some insulation posts several weeks ago, but the ball feels like it's really starting to roll again, so you'll have to excuse my overenthusiasm and the excessive number of pictures in this post. I'm excited, which will become obvious soon.

To start the day (since I'm, evidently, a glutton for punishment) my wife and I went climbing here at Vertical World in Seattle. Super fun. We climb about once a week, and more if we can fit it in. To anyone reading I highly suggest giving it a go. Make sure and take a belay course from a certified instructor before going. Safety first! We might even go bouldering (rope'less climbing that's very technical and only extends up about 18' at the max with big crash pads underneath you in case you take a spill) tomorrow morning as well despite me having a four hour long rehearsal and more studio work to get done. Glutton for punishment, did I mention that?
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The electrician is coming out on Wednesday, so I needed to get some work done in advance of that. In addition to wiring up the studio he's also running a 240V power supply to an infrared sauna we bought a while back that's been living in our tool shed ever since. Here it is about 2/3 of the way complete.
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It's important to confirm that it will fit a human as large as I am. Upon thorough testing I'm pleased to report that it passed all examinations with flying colors.
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All finished. We need to come up with a solution to hide the wood pieces I used to get it level in all directions, but effectively once there's a new 240V outlet for us to plug it into it will be ready to rock.
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Now onto something that directly impacts the studio! I needed to dig a trench for the conduit that will extend from the electrical panel in my basement over to the studio. In the picture below you can see the beginnings of that trench. The vertical PVC pipe is at about the location we'll be popping out of the wall.
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Here's the trench extending over to the studio. The sub-panel for the studio will live just inside the studio to the right of the entry door.
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Per code the trench has to be 18" deep relative to the adjacent existing ground elevation. There are some old bits of concrete that I couldn't get out of the trench that are keeping the conduit up a little too high. As long as the electrical inspector is reasonable it shouldn't be a problem. If he won't allow it to pass inspection without being exactly per code I'll have to tunnel underneath the concrete as removing it won't be possible. Believe me... I tried...
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1 1/4" schedule 40 PVC conduit in place in the trench.
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Here's where it will enter the studio.
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Needed to construct a 3/4" CDX plywood bridge so that patients coming to my wife's business can safely step over the trench. Plywood is tough stuff. I stood on the trench end and even bounced on it a little. The stuff barely flexed. I tend to forget how robust of a product it is.
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My wife had a good laugh when I came in to eat dinner regarding the quantity of dirt on my face. More updates to come as the electrical gets going. Lots of progress on the horizon, and once again... I'm very excited about it.
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In my area, the trench depth is measured from the top of the highest point of the conduit to the top surface of the finished grade. The 18" is what electricians call cover depth. If you are close, build up the surface grade with the tiles. Code and the bottom step height of the staircase could be an issue.

If you have to dig deeper, Home Depot rents a few models of 120 vac jack hammers that last time I looked, can be used on concrete up to 12" thick.
 
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The 18" is what electricians call cover depth
It's not a term specific to electrical work. Putting on my civil engineer hat for a second: Any buried pipe will have a cover specification that accounts for region-specific freezing requirements for pipes carrying liquid (not applicable here), and enough separation between surfaces weighted by vehicle or equipment traffic to keep the pipe from being crushed (also not applicable here). Since neither situation is applicable here, and it's a scenario where even direct-bury wire would have been acceptable I'm hoping the electrical inspector is reasonable.

If you are close, build up the surface grade with the tiles.
I'm only restricted at two points measuring about 6" parallel to the pipe trench. Building up won't help me in this case since what would be required would be 6" of added elevation. That would completely screw up the parking pad next to my house as well as the interface with the stairs up to the back door.

Code and the bottom step height of the staircase could be an issue.
It won't be, because nothing will be changed with how the stairs interface with the ground elevation.

If you have to dig deeper...
Digging deeper won't help unless we're talking about going so deep that I could tunnel underneath the pieces of concrete. The depth of said concrete is unknown, and I'm not really into spelunking :p

...Home Depot rents a few models of 120 vac jack hammers that last time I looked, can be used on concrete up to 12" thick.
I refer you back to post #10 of this thread, way back on page #1. Not interested in going back down that particular rabbit hole if it can be avoided. If I have to I will, but I'm hoping for a reasonable inspector.
 
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