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NAD Ampeg PF-50T..

I still want to pick one up at some point. They sound great. For something a bit different, I have my Tyler.

PXL_20240429_201908302.jpg
 
Just a quick catch up.
I used the Pf50t last night , for a rather long 5 hr rehearsal, (5 new songs, and a gigs next 2 weekends)
Through 2 x Bergantino NXV210s, vertical, the little amp did really well. Luckily for me, the guitarist has finally tired of lugging his wet/ dry , Marshal hd + quad/ Fender Twin rigg, and now is just using an old Vox AC30. (Hoo Ray for that, no more ear plugs!)
The PF-50T/Berg combination , sounded 'stunning ', and kept up with the drums, guitar..volume wise..just..
Pre amp 10 (o'clock) , ultra low in, eq flat, master 3(oclock). The little amp, flat stick, sounded Big, rich , definitely a 'rock' tone., I dropped all pedals, except a sfx Thumpinator, and a drive . Natural tube compression, and "that" player connection..
I'm looking forward to gigging with it, I will post again after. (We have our own production, so I WILL be using the di, and also , with only an AC30, our stage volume won't be as 'silly', as usual)
I should add, last night's rehearsals, was the first time I had ran a 4 ohm load. When I set it all up, switched it to 4ohms, powered up, 'wait till u guys hear this!', waited 2 minutes before flipping stand by....nothing!
What?? I turned off, and quickly checked speaker leads, and flipped the ohmage selector back to 8, then back to 4..went through the power up, wait, stanby..and it worked perfectly. I either hadn't selected 4 ohms correctly the first time, or , maybe being new, the selector switch was a little stiff..anyway, all good now.
 
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OK, a very quick post. Played a an open air gig on Sunday. With PA support, the little amp sounded really good. Totally happy with the sound, but I did struggle to hear myself at times. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't on our side, really windy, with 2 light showers. Because of the weather, we played 2 &1/2 hrs straight, instead of the usual 4 hrs, with breaks, so I didn't get a chance to even move my speakers (to a better hearing position).
Out front, the whole band sounded 'Epic', so we were all stoked with that!
So far, I'm really happy with the PF-50T, and I will definitely be able to improve my hearing issues.
We have another gig next Sunday night, so I will post more..
 
OK, a very quick post. Played a an open air gig on Sunday. With PA support, the little amp sounded really good. Totally happy with the sound, but I did struggle to hear myself at times. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't on our side, really windy, with 2 light showers. Because of the weather, we played 2 &1/2 hrs straight, instead of the usual 4 hrs, with breaks, so I didn't get a chance to even move my speakers (to a better hearing position).
Out front, the whole band sounded 'Epic', so we were all stoked with that!
So far, I'm really happy with the PF-50T, and I will definitely be able to improve my hearing issues.
We have another gig next Sunday night, so I will post more..

Were you not able to run your balanced out to a monitor mix?
 
Were you not able to run your balanced out to a monitor mix?
Yeah, I had di running, but unfortunately, our PA only has 2 monitor sends, 1 for Drum fill, and the 2nd send , I 'share' a monitor mix with the lead singer/guitarist , so his preferences over ride mine. Like I mentioned, just moving my bas rigg would have helped, + next week I'm taking a stand to get boxes off the ground.
 
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Yeah, I had di running, but unfortunately, our PA only has 2 monitor sends, 1 for Drum fill, and the 2nd send , I 'share' a monitor mix with the lead singer/guitarist , so his preferences over ride mine. Like I mentioned, just moving my bas rigg would have helped, + next week I'm taking a stand to get boxes off the ground.

That'll probably work.

Inadequate or untrustworthy monitor mixes are why I still carry an amp to gigs.
 
Tonight I tried putting my 2 x 210s on a table, side by side. It definitely increased my perceived volume. It 'sounded' louder, even with a lower master volume setting. The table is about 8" s higher than the height of 1 210, adding to that, 2 side by side projected the sound towards my upper torso and head, instead of a vertical array from my ankles to my stomach. This has only been an issue for me, since using a Pf50t, previously I could hear my AG700, and TT800 easily, in a 2x 210 vertical array.
Anyway, it's all common sense really, if u decide to use a low powered head, u will need to be a little creative in getting the sound to your ears..
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After just over 20hrs of use, in minimum 2 hr, sessions, but mainly 4hr blocks, I believe my amp is 'burnt in'.
Observations so far..
1. Usable max volume has risen slightly, maybe 10%, ( in other words a slight increase in headroom)
2. I still can't get the bias set properly, the best I get is a faint green, with a strong red flicker. To achieve even tis, the adjustment is fractional.. I believe the 6L6s (a pair of JJs) are not well 'matched', therefore making bias adjustment extremely finicky, with resulting bias substandard.
Iv ordered a full set of pre and post valves, from a reputable company. I'm going to try different alternatives, some that I have read of, from here. I will give me conclusions, when I have them.
Overall all. I really like the PF-50T, but, as iv read previously on TB, it can 'suffer ' a little with QC issues (valves, leading to biasing issues, in my case), coming from the factory.
Anyway, T.B.C.
 
If the bias can’t be set, I first suspect the power tubes.

The bias instructions say to let the amp warm up for at least 20 minutes in playing mode (not in standby). I find that with all amps, you want the components to warm up so that they are not drifting like they do when cold. That can take longer. Playing through the amp helps warm it up quicker.

Set the bias without the instrument cable plugged in, tones set at noon (to be consistent). Always back off the bias pot counter clockwise and turn up clockwise to your optimal bias setting. This helps eliminate any mechanical slop in the pot.

Bias will drift with changes in the AC mains voltage, it can drift. If you have one, measure the VAC with a volt meter set to AC, just to keep a record of the voltage when the bias was set. AC mains voltage can vary at some venues, often sagging with all the equipment and lights on. You don’t have to go nuts resetting your bias but be aware that if the amp sounds off, it could be due to the mains level and the bias setting.
 
If the bias can’t be set, I first suspect the power tubes.

The bias instructions say to let the amp warm up for at least 20 minutes in playing mode (not in standby). I find that with all amps, you want the components to warm up so that they are not drifting like they do when cold. That can take longer. Playing through the amp helps warm it up quicker.

Set the bias without the instrument cable plugged in, tones set at noon (to be consistent). Always back off the bias pot counter clockwise and turn up clockwise to your optimal bias setting. This helps eliminate any mechanical slop in the pot.

Bias will drift with changes in the AC mains voltage, it can drift. If you have one, measure the VAC with a volt meter set to AC, just to keep a record of the voltage when the bias was set. AC mains voltage can vary at some venues, often sagging with all the equipment and lights on. You don’t have to go nuts resetting your bias but be aware that if the amp sounds off, it could be due to the mains level and the bias setting.
Good info^ :thumbsup:
 
I believe my bias 'problem ', is down to badly 'matched ' output 6L6's. For whatever reason, my amp left the factory with Ruby 12ax7s, 12au7, and JJ 6L6's. I found it odd to have 2 different brands, in same amp..from the factory..
Anyway, I will soon 'get to the bottom of it'. I will let all know, once it's resolved.
 
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I believe my bias 'problem ', is down to badly 'matched ' output 6L6's. For whatever reason, my amp left the factory with Ruby 12ax7s, 12au7, and JJ 6L6's. I found it odd to have 2 different brands, in same amp..from the factory..
Anyway, I will soon 'get to the bottom of it'. I will let all know, once it's resolved.
Per the OM, the bias indicator circuit considers how well the tubes are matched.
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If the amp sounds good, the most important thing is to keep the hot tube out of the red zone.

I bought my amp previously loved. I was having the same issue with the bias. One of the tubes was intermittently noisy and its bias current was shifting around. Otherwise the amp sounded fine.

I installed a new pair of JJ 6L6GC. I don't remember any change in tone or power, but the random crackle is gone and the bias is stabile. The level of hum is slightly lower as well.
 
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