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NAD: G-K MB110- Mighty Mouse...

I don't know what's going on with G-K's product photography. That picture is straight from their website, and shows a cab that's quite a bit deeper than it is wide or tall. Yet the product specifications list the correct dimensions: 14 1/2" high, and 12 1/2" square.

If you look at this picture, you can see for yourself that the listed dimensions are right, not the promo photo. If you look closely, you should be able to see the two port tubes below the woofer. I would guesstimate that they are 2 1/2" in diameter.

Pretty hard to put a 10 and two large ports into the front face of a 12" cube, n'est-ce pas?

G-KMB1102_zps275c62d1.jpg


Note also, that the cool-looking laser-cut or stamped logo on the side of the cab and the metal corners on the front face are missing from the final product...

Actually - if you measure the G-K MB110, its really 14.5"H x 12.5"W x 11.5"D. ;)
 
I don't recommend building one exactly like mine. The amount of labour involved in rounding over and then sanding close to 100 holes was stupendous, not to mention the stink of burning plywood from my cheap hole saw...

I only swiss-cheesed it in the first place because I built the stand out of 5/8" birch ply, and it ended up too heavy for my tastes.

If I was doing it over, I would probably have used a thinner ply for all panels except the base. Not quite as stiff, I suppose, but much easier to build. Besides, most of the stiffness comes from angling the side pieces.

The backstop on the top deck is just a cabinet handle from Home Depot. Ditto for the screw-on rubber feet.

Anyway, the dimensions work well for the MB110, as well as the AudioKinesis cab:
AudioKinesisTC112standtop_zpsc5ab0a7c.jpg


AudioKinesisTC112standside_zpse6453b5d.jpg


AudioKinesisTC112standbottom_zpsdc9e8cb5.jpg


AudioKinesisTC112standfront_zps4efd1b21.jpg


AudioKinesisTC112standfoot_zps7394f62b.jpg


AudioKinesisTC112stand_zps2b6c44d7.jpg
 
That's slightly smaller than the OB-110 by Overton that I've got. The OP has inspired me to build a small stand similar to the one in the first post.

Yeah its really tiny, and powerful for its size - which makes it perfect for super fast and easy load in/out, setup, and transporting. Personally, I’m not a fan of bass amp stands - but the stand Steve made is a very good looking stand. And it was/is very nice of him to post detailed pic's for you too.
 
I don't recommend building one exactly like mine. The amount of labour involved in rounding over and then sanding close to 100 holes was stupendous, not to mention the stink of burning plywood from my cheap hole saw...

I only swiss-cheesed it in the first place because I built the stand out of 5/8" birch ply, and it ended up too heavy for my tastes.

If I was doing it over, I would probably have used a thinner ply for all panels except the base. Not quite as stiff, I suppose, but much easier to build. Besides, most of the stiffness comes from angling the side pieces.

The backstop on the top deck is just a cabinet handle from Home Depot. Ditto for the screw-on rubber feet.

AudioKinesisTC112stand_zps2b6c44d7.jpg

Nice review of the amp...came to this thread because I'm currently looking for a micro amp and not sure between this, the 112 version, a Carvin MB12 or an Ibanez Promethean which I've read good things about.

BUT... I have to say, I'm really impressed with that stand you made! Love the look - you carved the holes for weight but it gives it a unique look and I love the tilted top piece with the stopper. So when are you taking orders on these? :hiding:
 
Great review. I have been on a mission to find a micro combo that I really liked. I briefly owned the MB112 and returned it as it sounded too boxy to me when turned up at all. I also had the Line6 110 which I agree, sounded muffled and somehow artificial. I bought the Traynor SM115 but soon returned it as it just didn't sound sweet enough to my ears.

I ended up recently ordering from Carvin their MB210 combo which is larger and weighs 36 pounds, but I am quite pleased. I almost went with their 110 combo but the price difference was minimal for the extra driver. This amp cost me less then a new GK MB110 which was in the end, the deciding factor.
 
I ordered this on Thursday, and was told it would arrive in about a week. Long & McQuade called Friday, to say that it had arrived already!

sorry to go off topic here - that looks like a damn good amp, and something I should probably start considering, but with that said,

I have a hard time believing that long and mcquade would get anything in for you in that amount of time - most people I know can barely get stuff in in less than a month from L&M. Maybe they're just better in London.
 
Nice review of the amp...came to this thread because I'm currently looking for a micro amp and not sure between this, the 112 version, a Carvin MB12 or an Ibanez Promethean which I've read good things about.

I haven't compared those 112 combo (size, weight, power, & cost) specs, but out of the three popular high powered 10" speaker bass combos (and the TCE 2x8"), the GK MB110 is the lightest in weigh and the smallest in size, affordable, and its great sounding and powerful - also money isn't wasted on unnecessary junk like built in effects, etc.

Gallien-Krueger MB110 - $299.99
Size: 14.5"H x 12.5"W x 11.5"D
Weight: 21lbs
Power: 100W
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MB110

Ibanez Promethean P3110 - $349.99
Size: 14.4"H x 17.7"W x 21.7"D
Weight: 37.4lbs
Power: 300W

Carvin MB10 - $269 + $25 shipping = $294.00
Size: 18.5"H x 12.75"W x 11.5"D
Weight: 26.1lbs
Power: 200W

TC Electronic BG250-208 - $499.99
Size: 18.3"H x 12.6"W x 11.5"D
Weight: 25.9lbs
Power: 250W
 
sorry to go off topic here - that looks like a damn good amp, and something I should probably start considering, but with that said,



I have a hard time believing that long and mcquade would get anything in for you in that amount of time - most people I know can barely get stuff in in less than a month from L&M. Maybe they're just better in London.


I think there was one in Toronto. They're pretty fast if it's only an inter-store transfer.
 
I think there was one in Toronto. They're pretty fast if it's only an inter-store transfer.

I'm not familiar with that stipulation, to be honest, I've never had much good experience with L&M, at least the branch here in windsor - the last experience was really good though, so maybe their staff is turning around. Naturally, with not much good experience I'm generally trying to avoid buying stuff from them, which is easy when I don't need to buy stuff. With that said, I'm optimistic about their newer staff.


Anyways, it's cool that this is being offered now, I was looking at the Traynor 110 amp, but it didn't come equipped with a jack for an extension cabinet, which is kindof a dealbreaker for me. So now, I'm considering this little combo, I'm not sure how much I need another piece of gear though, I'm pretty set.
 
Not being a troll, honestly, but since it's pretty close to that magical 19" height at which I've heard that you lose acoustic coupling with the floor, how does it perform in terms of low-end transfer seeing as it's pretty solidly built, but rubber mounted all the same?

FWIW: I remember BFM saying the magic number is 24" - however, I hear change starting at about 15", also I.E. you don't lose coupling with rubber feet.
 
FWIW: I remember BFM saying the magic number is 24" - however, I hear change starting at about 15", also I.E. you don't lose coupling with rubber feet.

I believe that two feet is the half-wave point, where you are supposed to lose the boundary reinforcement from the floor.

IME, it's difficult to distinguish the difference between a loss of low end, and a gain in the highs because you're now "in the beam", and hearing more highs. Either way, all cabs sound brighter elevated or tilted.

With the G-K 4-band EQ, it's pretty easy to dial back the treble and upper mids so that the top end doesn't give you a haircut.

Regardless for me, the whole point of elevating a cab is to get out of the way of the sound guy, or to stop room boom. I WANT less low end in the house in that situation. If I wasn't giving FOH a DI signal, I'd leave the amp on the floor and crank it.