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Naimish Bridges

#81
throbgod13 said:
any thoughts of a DLC coating on them?? instead of hard anodizing??
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Hey throbgod13,

That's some heavy reading for a meager intellect like mine. Especially first thing in the morning. But wow! I pinched this from a site.

...."These are measured values; though in the case of the 2μm coating the lifetime was extrapolated from the last time the sample was evaluated until the testing apparatus itself wore out."

The lifetime referred to above was extended from one week to eighty-five years. It might be overkill, but if you've got more info please feel free to PM me.

Thanks,
Rick
 
#82
Angus said:
Errr, are you sure about that?....
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No I'm not sure. If you can, would you please PM me some contacts?
Angus said:
Why is this inspiring?
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Inspire was the wrong word. Provoke? Agitate? Rile? It appears I've done that and then some.
Angus said:
You're telling us you know everything we might ever say and that we are, for all intents and purposes, wasting your time and ours, but to continue anyway. What?
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I never told anyone I know everything they might say. I never said anyone was wasting my time or their's. I regret you've taken it that way.
Angus said:
Could you elaborate a little bit on this explanation? Not that you need to change the design of your bridge, but pilotjones' point is a valid one and I'm not sure how your explanation responds to it exactly.
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The design goal of the bridge was to increase surface contact area of the string saddle by eliminating the set screws. By using an intermediate piece between the saddle and the anvil I not only complicate the design but reduce the surface contact area to an unacceptable level.
Angus said:
That part at least shouldn't be a problem! Extrusion can be extremely precise with a good die. I'd worry more about the coatings given your desire to ensure a perfect contact patch between the anvil and base.

Pilotjones, can't explain more about installation here, but I've helped do a few. I should explain more in a PM sometime- it's just for fun at the university.

The two part extrusion, though, is probably how the production people would prefer to do it, too. IME, the preferred way is just like die casting or injection molding- if you can make multiple pieces with a narrow bridge and without too much waste in the sprue, then they'll always do it that way even if it means you have to cut the pieces apart. For this application, there's no reason not to do it that way since all the small parts could be made with a single extrusion die.
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This is terrific. It's the type of readily available information I find so difficult to uncover. If you have the time I would greatly appreciate a PM.

I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed. I'm uneducated, ignorant, and very slow to learn. I spent four full years in High School and never earned a diploma. So I ask of you all; please don't be offended by anything I say. Just consider the source.

Sincerely,
Rick
 
#83
Interesting thread.I'm trying to find a bridge to replace my Hipshot B on a custom 5 string.My issue is that I can't get the B string low enough without using a tapered string.It's that or shim the neck. I need a bridge with spacing similar to a MM SR5.If you can make me one like that in black,put me down for one,and I'll send you my CC number.
 
#87
Matt Golgotha said:
Hi Rick - I really like the look of your bridge.
Not meaning to complicate matters but do you think that longterm a piezo saddle would work in this application?
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Hey Matt,

Thanks for bringing this up. I've been thinking about it since the first bridge went on the fretless Jazz dlx.

I don't see any reason why piezo elements wouldn't work in this application. The real fun will start when I can experiment with the best way to use them. Where in this design will they produce the truest tone? Should I put them under the anvil piece, between the saddle and anvil, or machine a groove right under the string contact point?

I wish I had the resources to answer these questions, and more. What does a Brass Naimishbridge sound like? How does a Wood bridge sound? I don't know but I'd love to find out. Once I get things rolling I'm hoping to work closely with funnyman Skjold to answer some of these questions.

Keep this in mind; the Naimishbridge can be made from anything that can be machined. Aluminum, Brass, Steel, Stainless, Wood, Plastic......................anything.

Rick
 
#88
73jbass said:
Interesting thread.I'm trying to find a bridge to replace my Hipshot B on a custom 5 string.My issue is that I can't get the B string low enough without using a tapered string.It's that or shim the neck. I need a bridge with spacing similar to a MM SR5.If you can make me one like that in black,put me down for one,and I'll send you my CC number.
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Hey 73jbass,

You've come to the right place. The hipshot web site shows three different five string B models. One with 0.750" string spacing, one with 0.708" spacing, and one with 0.669" spacing. A search of TB threads says 17.5mm on all EBMM 5 strings, which according to my math=0.689". :confused::confused::confused:

I've got to run over to J.B. Hart Music. Be right back.

Rick
 
#89
BTW this is the general idea of what I meant with the separate pivot pin. Plenty of contact for me, maybe not for you.
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#92
I was wondering - if you could have 2 additional holes drilled closer to the back so the it would solve the problem with the 5 hole drop in for the MIM bass's. then i could use the direct drop in and just add 2 screws to keep the back down.
 
#97
pilotjones said:
BTW this is the general idea of what I meant with the separate pivot pin. Plenty of contact for me, maybe not for you.
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This is exactly what I'd assumed you'd meant. Given the way the overall unit is designed, I don't see how this affects the total area of the contact surface. Assuming that the machining is precise (ie, tolerances tight enough that you can assume there is roughly no air gap), then it won't be different than a single piece. The plus, though, is that (as pilotjones initially mentioned) it is fantastically easier to make. I could make those parts manually on a mill in a few minutes.

I'd still love to see the behavior of the cantilevered section under vibration, too. I can't imagine this wouldn't have some audible effect, but maybe that's part of the reason why Pete likes them!

Does anyone else see OHV roller rocker arms when looking at the anvil designs?
 
#99
Hello there mr. Richard,

This is great, isn't it? Thanks to the www it is possible for me to stumble across you and your awesome bridge. On top of that i must say that i find your thoughts and this thread very exciting and inspiring. I soooo much love it when someone shines a light where you figured there was something there. Your thoughts on sustain and that other replacement bridge have found a warm welcome here. And i am saying that whilst using it myself.... Although i have been on the lookout for something else for some time now. Something about those tiny screws just didn't feel totally right....

The design looks a winner, simplicity is best! Clean, balanced. Put me down for one, hopefully two.

It would be great if at some point there could be an overview, samples, of all the finishes available.

Cheers! Bob.
 

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