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Nash basses: Relicing aside

#21
If I got a Nash bass, I get a J bass and have the Sadowsky preamp installed and that would be just off the hook fantastic. ...or use the Sadowsky outboard pre.

Here's my Nash Tele...apologies that it's not a bass.

nash_my_tele_mary_kay_white.jpg
 
#24
theleveebreaks said:
I'm having one built right now.

I feel a little biased because I'm good friends with the builder, so take my review with a grain of salt, but here it is.

Nash Guitars are killer in every aspect. I have never heard a bass sit so well in a mix, whether it was live or in the studio.

The fretwork is second to none.

Amazing set-ups (for those who have to ship their basses or they are in other parts of the states, you really have to get a feel for how Nash Guitars really does their setups, they're incredible!)

The neck pockets are nice and tight, which leads to them being incredibly resonant. Even unplugged, you get that huge piano like tone.

As for the "parts bass" argument and if the basses are worth what you're paying for. Absolutely. If Bill made his own bodies and necks, you'd probably be paying double the price for the same product. So getting a quality body and neck from a reputable dealer I think makes a whole lot of sense.

In short, I think they're worth every penny, but ultimately, it's really just up to how you like your bass. IMHO, a Nash is the quintessential definition of bass: solid.

Someone's review for an Aguilar DB750 summed it up perfectly, but I'll change it to work with this. "This bass was not made to reinvent the wheel, just reproduce it flawlessly". It's so true!
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As a recent Nash owner I agree with most of what you said except that the setup on the bass I purchased was the worst of any bass or guitar I've purchased. I expect a little tweaking, living in Utah, but to get my action even close used nearly all of my evaluation period. I play with a fairly heavy right hand so I typically set the neck relief to ~0.016-0.020". The bass, as received was around 0.040". It took nearly 2 turns of the truss rod 1/4 to 1/2 a turn at time. Each time requiring removal of the neck whose pocket is the tightest of any of the guitars or basses I own. Then I went to work on the setting the intonation and bridge saddle heights. Needless to say I was expecting a little better setup on a bass that costs as much as a Nashes does. Note that I did the setup with the strings that came on the bass.

After deciding to keep the bass I had to readjust everything for the flats, originally DR Hi beam flats now LaBellas, I use. I managed to get everything setup but the neck could probably use a shim as my e-string saddle is bottomed out.

That said other than low volume playing around the house I've used it for a number of practices with a full band and it does cut through wonderfully. It will probably see it's first gig next Saturday.

Dave
 
#27
fredguy said:
As a recent Nash owner I agree with most of what you said except that the setup on the bass I purchased was the worst of any bass or guitar I've purchased. I expect a little tweaking, living in Utah, but to get my action even close used nearly all of my evaluation period. I play with a fairly heavy right hand so I typically set the neck relief to ~0.016-0.020". The bass, as received was around 0.040". It took nearly 2 turns of the truss rod 1/4 to 1/2 a turn at time. Each time requiring removal of the neck whose pocket is the tightest of any of the guitars or basses I own. Then I went to work on the setting the intonation and bridge saddle heights. Needless to say I was expecting a little better setup on a bass that costs as much as a Nashes does. Note that I did the setup with the strings that came on the bass.

After deciding to keep the bass I had to readjust everything for the flats, originally DR Hi beam flats now LaBellas, I use. I managed to get everything setup but the neck could probably use a shim as my e-string saddle is bottomed out.

That said other than low volume playing around the house I've used it for a number of practices with a full band and it does cut through wonderfully. It will probably see it's first gig next Saturday.

Dave
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That's really interesting, I don't see how Bill could have let it out of his shop like that. I have never seen or played a guitar as bad you described shipped from him.

Did you buy it from a dealer or did you buy it from a previous owner?
 
#28
lefty007 said:
I'm very close to ordering one and have the same questions. I believe they are made from quality parts (and woods) and the nitro finishes, relicing apart, look very well applied.

A bass made with Warmoth or USA Customs parts will cost you around $1000, with paint and assembly/setup included, so you are paying an extra $500 to $650 for his signature finishing. I don't know if Nash also does his own fretwork, but I would think that the necks come ready-to-go from his source.
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Warmoth prices have crept up a tad. I'm thinking a passive J with a pro set up would be closer to 1200 by the time you got done, but either way, you are paying some additional money for his finish and assembly. The neck are probably close to ready to go, but they typically require a bit of fretwork.

All in all, iI don't think they are a bad deal if you are into nitro finished instruments. This is one case where it is actually cheaper to go with someone else over fender, as they don't do nitro (save for the highway 1) on non custom shop models
 
#31
I'm sure that his relicing process is no simple task. In addition to the body and neck treatments, every single piece of hardware is somehow touched. It goes way beyond assembling Warmoth parts! Knowing something about metal finishing, I will say this, getting those bridge and pup covers to look just right is probably time consuming in itself, same thing with the pickguards and bridges. If you like the relic look or not, doing it at that level is truly an art!!
 

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