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Natural Finish (How to)

_daswolf_

_daswolf_

Feb 9, 2013
22
7
NorCal - East Bay
#1
Does anyone have a good "how to", links or pdf etc. on how to get a natural finish?
I'm not even really sure what to use. I love the look of the 70's stratocaster. I've seen some tutorials using tru-oil and boiled linseed oil and those seems to have more of an orangish tint to them. Does anyone know how to get a finish like this strat? Is it just clear coats? Or is a tint added?

Thanks in advance.
Screen Shot 2016-07-05 at 2.55.36 PM.png
 
#2
The maple P bass I just built and finished in clear doesn't have a grain pop like that, while the Squier VM I have in natural does (same woods, both maple.) I expect with the J, the wood was tinted prior to applying the clear. I did finish the P with a matte finish though, maybe that affects it too.
 
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#3
_daswolf_ said:
Does anyone have a good "how to", links or pdf etc. on how to get a natural finish?
I'm not even really sure what to use. I love the look of the 70's stratocaster. I've seen some tutorials using tru-oil and boiled linseed oil and those seems to have more of an orangish tint to them. Does anyone know how to get a finish like this strat? Is it just clear coats? Or is a tint added?

Thanks in advance.
View attachment 900974
Click to expand...

That finish is just a clear coat, the wood under it is what gives it the look. If you don't have an ash body with a striking grain like that you will not be able to achieve that look
 
#6
Pilgrim said:
A "natural" finish usually has some coloring agent in it to accent the grain in the wood. That surface finish is clear, but grain is much more striking when a mild coloring agent is used to make it "pop".
Click to expand...

Usually, but the picture posted has no dye or stain applied. That is just a natural piece of ash.
 
#7
Often on ash a grain filler is applied before the finish to fill the pores so the end result is smooth and not pock-marked. And often the filler is tinted to even out the colour, especially if the body is made from two or more pieces of wood. Neither the tint nor the pore filling is essential, but they tend to give a more consistent pleasing look. You can use a contrasting filler, as suggested earlier, or something close to the actual colour of the wood to look "natural".

And there are a whole bag of tricks to make the wood look natural, but aged. And another course of action to make it "pop" unnaturally.

Filled Ash.jpg
 
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#8
Turnaround said:
Often on ash a grain filler is applied before the finish to fill the pores so the end result is smooth and not pock-marked. And often the filler is tinted to even out the colour, especially if the body is made from two or more pieces of wood. Neither the tint nor the pore filling is essential, but they tend to give a more consistent pleasing look. You can use a contrasting filler, as suggested earlier, or something close to the actual colour of the wood to look "natural".

And there are a whole bag of tricks to make the wood look natural, but aged. And another course of action to make it "pop" unnaturally.

View attachment 905702
Click to expand...

Since I quit spraying nitrocellulose and started spraying automotive HS clears, grain filling, even on ash isn't really necessary anymore. The higher solids and higher builds will usually fill the grain in a couple coats.
 
#11
Stop playing it until you get a finish on there. Every time you handle it without a finish your putting more dirt into the grain. It won't take too long for the wood to pick up a greyish patina that will be a royal PITA to remove.
 

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