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NBD : Aviator Guitars Bomber 4 Multiscale

I've been using Dingwall basses almost exclusively for quite a few years, love them.
However due to the nature of their business there are things they won't do.

So I asked Aviator Guitars out of the Czech Republic, who already made me a guitar a couple years ago, for quite a few features that are not in the cards at Dingwall, and after just over a year here's what they delivered :

Body:
Sapele, chambered
Poplar burl top

Neck:
Multiscale 37''-34.75''
Sapele, neck-through
Indian rosewood fretboard
Stainless steel frets (with zero fret)
Green luminlay side dots
Matching headstock

Hardware:
Custom angled ETS transmission bridge
Hipshot ultralite tuners (with D-tuner on the lowest string)
Recessed Dunlop strap locks
Tuned BEAD with Dingwall 130-55 strings

Electronics:
Custom angled Bassculture Walbucker (multicoil à la Wal) in fretboard-matching Indian Rosewood cover
Passive: Volume, Tone, series-parallel toggle (might eventually try a Lusithand preamp)

I think it came our great, can't wait to play it through the rig.
The only thing I wished for but they couldn't do is compound radius.

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That’s really cool! I’ve actually been kicking around a multiscale/multicoil bass build idea for a number of years but haven’t had any time.

If you want to try a filter-based pre I’d try to keep it outboard. Since it’s a single-pickup bass, it won’t limit your options unlike a dual-filter setup where you have to blend the signal from each pickup’s filter on the bass. Looks like you have plenty of room in the control cavity though.
 
The only thing I wished for but they couldn't do is compound radius.

Lovely bass! Congratulations.

FWIW I’ve tried a few compound radius bass necks. IMO you aren’t missing much if anything by not having it. However, a multiscale neck (on a 5-string at least since I’ve never played a 4-string multi) is definitely a nice feature to have.

Great bass you got there. Play it well! :thumbsup:
 
If you want to try a filter-based pre I’d try to keep it outboard. Since it’s a single-pickup bass, it won’t limit your options unlike a dual-filter setup where you have to blend the signal from each pickup’s filter on the bass. Looks like you have plenty of room in the control cavity though.

The preamp I'd try would include active summing of each string's signal like on Wals, so outboard is a no-go (barring wiring each string to a pin of a MIDI connector or something exotic like that).
I'd convert the toggle to an active/passive switch so I could still play if the battery ran out. But I'll definitely start out passive for a couple months.

FWIW I’ve tried a few compound radius bass necks. IMO you aren’t missing much if anything by not having it. However, a multiscale neck (on a 5-string at least since I’ve never played a 4-string multi) is definitely a nice feature to have.
At this point I'm something of a multiscale expert having owned every scale & string count option Dingwall offers (long scale 4, 5 and 6 - medium scale 4 and 5). Been playing an ABI with all wenge neck strung BEAD in one of my bands for the last couple years - it works perfectly fine but I figured I'd go with the longer scale lengths "designed" for these pitches on this one.
The one thing I haven't tried to this day is Dingwall's asian-manufactured offering which don't have compound radius - that was my main reason for desiring it.
 
The one thing I haven't tried to this day is Dingwall's asian-manufactured offering which don't have compound radius - that was my main reason for desiring it.

Edumakate me. What's the benefit of a compound radius on a regular scale bass? How about on a multi scale bass? For guitar, smaller at the nut, easier chords, flatter towards the body, string bends don't choke out. I can't imagine dressing the frets on something like this.
 
Edumakate me. What's the benefit of a compound radius on a regular scale bass? How about on a multi scale bass? For guitar, smaller at the nut, easier chords, flatter towards the body, string bends don't choke out. I can't imagine dressing the frets on something like this.

For even action across the board, the radius should flatten by the same ratio the strings spacing widens. Assuming a perfect setup it allows for lower action overall.

 
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The preamp I'd try would include active summing of each string's signal like on Wals, so outboard is a no-go (barring wiring each string to a pin of a MIDI connector or something exotic like that).
I'd convert the toggle to an active/passive switch so I could still play if the battery ran out. But I'll definitely start out passive for a couple months.
Oh right, I forgot Lusithand was doing that! What's the benefit of that vs just summing the coils passively? Different impedance creating a different/better sound?