NBD - Conklin Groove Tools Bill Dickens Sig - worth it??

[Razman]

GC lagged a bit sending it, but they did overnight it to me so I would have it today, so kudos for making it right. But before you say "buyer beware" I felt I did try to do my due diligence when asking about the condition of this bass (I'll explain). I'm on the fence as to whether I'm going to keep it or not.

My main issue is that the nut is broken and needs to be replaced, the frets appear to be more worn than initially indicated, and the tuning machines closest to the neck joint are installed at a strange angle (so that's a question for other GTBD owners - and I'll scour the web for some pics to see if mine's an exception or not.)

There's some wear in the 'money note' areas but it also appears that the portion of the frets under the high strings was filed down. Big deal? Probably not, but that would have factored into my decision to buy it.

The broken nut is a non-starter - or the price should have been adjusted accordingly (I can deal with that). However, the tuning machines - check out the one for the bottom-most string! Is that normal?? The topmost string isn't at such an angle, but it's still angled slightly. Weird.

All that said, should it stay or should it go (now)? Thanks..

Raz

Edit: I may or may not dump the ramps. I can deal with them being clear but whatever was used to secure them looks ugly now.

 

[abarson]

Pics?

 

[Razman]

Pics?

I was working on it!!

 

[Ed Goode]

Depending on the price paid, and the relative availability of GTBD's currently, there is nothing there that would particularly bother me. I've had ERB nuts break on the ends more than a few times, but agree, they should have noted it and adjusted $$ accordingly. Maybe it's just not being properly shown in the pics, but neither the tuner or frets look especially egregious to me. Those GT tuners only have the single set screw so a slight shift up/down isn't rare, no issue as long as it holds once it's tuned. Can't really tell what's what with the frets, based on those pics …

 

[Razman]

Depending on the price paid, and the relative availability of GTBD's currently, there is nothing there that would particularly bother me. I've had ERB nuts break on the ends more than a few times, but agree, they should have noted it and adjusted $$ accordingly. Maybe it's just not being properly shown in the pics, but neither the tuner or frets look especially egregious to me. Those GT tuners only have the single set screw so a slight shift up/down isn't rare, no issue as long as it holds once it's tuned. Can't really tell what's what with the frets, based on those pics …

It is difficult to take good pics of the frets - I may pull the strings and clean it up a bit, then see how I feel about them.

The bottom tuning machines seem to be mounted in the curve of the headstock - I'm just curious if that design flaw is consistent with others or an anomaly. And I see that one pic didn't make it - I'll fix that as it shows more clearly what I'm referring to.

The hardware is clean, it has a couple of scratchy pots but I can remedy that, and they are hard to find (been waiting a few years for this opportunity). But I own two other seven's so waiting for another to come along wouldn't be the end of the world for me.

Edit: the ramps are a permanent fixture now it seems; I can see marks on the body where it appears a prior owner might have attempted to pry them off. Hmmm...

 

[Snert]

How often do these come up? Can't be very often, so do you want it or not is what's going to answer whether to keep it or not. The tuner looks a bit weird, but if it works, wouldn't bother me. Get the nut repaired and get a bit of a refund for it.
Out of curiosity, what's the nut width and bridge spacing on these? I love the GT5, and mainly play 6s, but these have always intrigued me. Probably the only 7 that's ever interested me.

 

[Razman]

Hey there @Snert, the tuners seem to work fine. I just talked to the manager of my local GC (who knows me) and they do give partial refunds on a case-by-case basis. He said that he'd go to bat for me if I don't have luck with the other store, so that's comforting.

The nut on this one is 2.25"; a GT-7 is 2.5". Spacing is identical at 16.5mm. It was strung with a low F#, so that's cool (my other two are set up like that). I'll need to play it to see if I can deal with the ramps. If I try to slap a little, it's slightly more difficult to get my fingers under the strings. I also use a pick occasionally (I know, GASP) and the ramp is definitely noticeable. I have 45 days to decide.

 

[Snert]

The nut on this one is 2.25"; a GT-7 is 2.5". Spacing is identical at 16.5mm. It was strung with a low F#, so that's cool (my other two are set up like that).

Thank you. If one turns up when I have some spare cash, I might have to jump on it.

Best of luck with whatever you decide to do, but my gut says, from another continent, to get the nut fixed and keep it. Plastic nuts break and it's what 20yo now?

 

[DJ Bebop]

It is difficult to take good pics of the frets - I may pull the strings and clean it up a bit, then see how I feel about them.

The bottom tuning machines seem to be mounted in the curve of the headstock - I'm just curious if that design flaw is consistent with others or an anomaly. And I see that one pic didn't make it - I'll fix that as it shows more clearly what I'm referring to.

The hardware is clean, it has a couple of scratchy pots but I can remedy that, and they are hard to find (been waiting a few years for this opportunity). But I own two other seven's so waiting for another to come along wouldn't be the end of the world for me.

Edit: the ramps are a permanent fixture now it seems; I can see marks on the body where it appears a prior owner might have attempted to pry them off. Hmmm...

It looks like the nut for the tuner is loose or stripped, but I wouldn't want to tighten it without having a luthier looking at it. I would be afraid of over tighten and splitting the headstock.

 

[Modulus 96]

I think there's a gt7 on reverb right now. Maybe not the price you're looking for but it's there.

 

[Dirk Diggler]

Depends on the cash paid.

All problems easily solvable and expected with any used bass.
New nut, level and dress on the frets, they should have room left.
And of course a setup and replace the tuner if it bugs you.

Yeah get rid of the ramps, heat may be the only way, of course lots of careful prying.
Think of it like fingerboard removal, maybe.

It looks to me like silicone caulk perhaps?

 

[abarson]

The E and G tuners on my Tobias Growler 4 also have the mounting screw slightly lifted as it rests on the beginning of the volute's curve. It has never bothered me (well, unless I let OCD creep in) and the bass refuses to go out of tune. Your example has more gap than mine: I can't advise further.

 

[MMiller28]

So much yikes

 

[Razman]

It looks like the nut for the tuner is loose or stripped, but I wouldn't want to tighten it without having a luthier looking at it. I would be afraid of over tighten and splitting the headstock.

It's easy to check - see my post in the 7 string club - besides, pulling the hardware, doing a thorough cleaning and inspection is my usual SOP when I get a new bass, so I'll look into it more then. Doesn't seem to be much that can be done about it due to the location so maybe I just live with it.

I think there's a gt7 on reverb right now. Maybe not the price you're looking for but it's there.

I do own a GT-7 already; last one I saw on ebay went for a little over $600 - should have just bought it - but I don't need two of them. I wanted a GTBD to hear how it sounds as they have a lot of tonal options built into them. They both are probably not getting any cheaper so it might just be worth keeping.

Depends on the cash paid.

All problems easily solvable and expected with any used bass.
New nut, level and dress on the frets, they should have room left.
And of course a setup and replace the tuner if it bugs you.

Yeah get rid of the ramps, heat may be the only way, of course lots of careful prying.
Think of it like fingerboard removal, maybe.

It looks to me like silicone caulk perhaps?

Hmmm, you might be right - that's going to be a pain to remove, if it's even possible. Not sure I could direct any amount of heat to those specific areas, or how much would be needed - or if it would damage the finish.

I do think it's at least worth spending the time to give it a good going-over and play it a bit - worst case GC gets a bass back in better condition than they sent it.

If it does stay here I'll need a new gig bag - the one it came in (a Road Runner) opens the wrong way - maybe it's for a lefty?

Thanks for the replies, I appreciate it!!

Eric

 

[Razman]

There sure is a lot going on in this electronics cavity!

 

[non]

it looks like you have clear double sided tape holding the ramps on. it has a thick gel kind of consistency. i can tell because i have used it before and you can see the cut edges to fit under the ramps. that stuff is super strong. the hardest part to get those off is getting something under them to start prying them off without damaging the body.
put something soft on the body then something hard on top of that to get the leverage to pry. or if you can get a good enough grip with your fingers to get it started.

 

[Snert]

If it's double sided tape, try applying heat via a hot water bottle. If it doesn't work, you at least shouldn't have damaged the clear plastic like a heat gun or hair dryer might.

I'd also take the pickups out and apply leverage from the sides. That way if you do inadvertently mark it, it will be under the strings and less visible.

 

[Razman]

Thanks for the suggestions - worst case I can always take my butane torch to it and give it a "relic'd" look, right?

 

[Snert]

Dragging it behind your truck on a dirt road completes the look.

 

[Vodyanoi]

Looks like a nice instrument, if you can deal with the issues you mention. I wouldn't bother with the tuning machine if it works correctly, and I'd just replace the nut if needed. The frets can be dressed or replaced, though it can get expensive and it should be reflected in the price you paid for it. Oh, and what a great excuse for a fretless conversion!

If you decide to keep it, here's some advice about removing the ramps:

• Use a heat gun to soften the glue — be extra careful with this tool, so you won't damage the finish. Keep the nozzle to a safe distance from the instrument. Better still, see if you can get a common hair dryer to work, as it's much safer alternative.

• When the glue is hot enough, insert a flatwound bass G string or a guitar string underneath the ramps in order to sever the glue. Use the string as a saw to cut through the glue. Remove adhesive, then use some polishing cream to restore/buff the finish, in case there's any scuffing.

• In any case, wear protective gloves, take your time and don't try to pry the ramps with screwdrivers etc. Don't burn the house down. Consider letting a luthier do the job for you if you're not familiar with the use of the above tools.