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NBD-- Could use a little help!

Ah- are light strings less susceptible to buzz? Intuitively it’s what I would have guessed but I didn’t wanna act on assumptions.

I was probably gonna change them anyway- typically I use light GHS Pressurewounds, as they make my ears and fingers happy. Haven’t tried the Pure Blues on anything before. What are they like?

Actually- I wonder... The Mikro is I think a 28.something scale... Would ‘short scale’ strings even fit, or would even those be too long?

--^@

Welcome to Mikroland, @Chicory Blue !

Here's a post from a while back on strings that work on the Mikro. Not exhaustive, by any means, but could be a good starting point for you :-) (Note that I made a typo in that post: The TIs I have on (one of) my Mikros are the JF324s, not the JF344s)

:bassist:
 
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So possibly dumb question:

Since the neck is going to need to settle in after adjusting the truss rod, in this case for the strings to put some relief in it, would it make sense to tune UP a half step to add more string tension, then go back to standard tuning to let the truss rod pull back a bit?

Would that speed things up? And would it be better to have the truss rod pulling the neck back be the final action in the adjustment process? Like tuning strings up to pitch rather than down to pitch?
 
Welcome back CB!

If you're going to change the strings, I would suggest doing that first. Then set up the bass (including any needed truss rod adjustment). Different string sets have different tensions and the string tension is a big factor in how tight the truss rod needs to be.
 
Great to see you back on here!
I'd strongly argue for the goat sacrifice. I know you want to.

I am a bit surprised everyone's leaping on truss rod adjustment first, but then I don't know a lot about setting up. My instinct would be to make sure the bridge is set right first...tho I can see that if the neck is screwed up the bridge action/intonation won't ever be right.
 
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A Chicory Blue post?? :wideyed:

tration-id466946271?k=6&m=466946271&s=612x612&w=0&h=um1jht8He6k-w46gU1s93DKo0YT5zcAwxYytKd4trFg=.jpg



Nice bass! :thumbsup:
 
Carry on.

That’s the plan. Been a rough one but I’ll keep trying to bloom through the cracks.

hope you get the adjustments made and that you get the piece playing, OP, because it looks like a great way to "heal." nice looking PJ you've got there --- congratulations on your new instrument! :thumbsup:

Aye... I’ve consolidated my portable looping setup to an iRig and a cute little blueboard. All I needed to get back to work was a nice little electric I could bump around, as my parlor doesn’t sound great plugged in and I wanted a little privacy anyway. Head went to a Mikro right away. My hopes are high.

Welcome back CB!

If you're going to change the strings, I would suggest doing that first. Then set up the bass (including any needed truss rod adjustment). Different string sets have different tensions and the string tension is a big factor in how tight the truss rod needs to be.

Good call. I believe I’ll go about it that way before I mess with anything else too hard.

Great to see you back on here!
I'd strongly argue for the goat sacrifice. I know you want to.

I am a bit surprised everyone's leaping on truss rod adjustment first, but then I don't know a lot about setting up. My instinct would be to make sure the bridge is set right first...tho I can see that if the neck is screwed up the bridge action/intonation won't ever be right.

You know me so well <3

A Chicory Blue post?? :wideyed:

View attachment 4356113

Nice bass! :thumbsup:

Hee... Well this makes me feel special. Thank you. <3

--^@
 
A'oy, luvs. Been a hot minute since I got a new toy, but a round of decluttering left me with enough store credit to scratch an itch I'd had lately, and I got myself this lil Mikro beb.

View attachment 4355727

Nothing exotic or fancy. Just wanted to get back into electric territory after a few years of mainly playing acoustic parlor basses and I figured this would be a bit easier to carry around and indulge my whimsy as compared to my beloved but massive and moody SUB.

Just freed it from its box and tuned up aaaaaand oh lawd this is the fret-buzzingest thing I've ever beheld. It's been a couple of years since I had to set anything up and I'm not super sure where to start to be honest. The buzzing is present pretty much everywhere on the neck in varying amounts, definitely worst near the nut. What's the first step? Truss rod? Action? Different strings? Sacrifice a goat? I may be a bit rusty here.

I could google this but asking you guys is more fun and frankly I've missed y'all.

--^@

Could be all of the above. I would suggest a quick trip to a shop and have a technician set it up for you. It’s not that expensive unless you have some serious issues which is rare.
 
Hey ChicoryB
,I owned an Ibanez micro shorty for awhile.It was a beautifull roadster orange.I would also suggest a set of tapes or flatts.Worked for me.No buzz afterward,But I had Daderrio black short scale tapes on mine.It sounded awsome.I beleive a guitar tech also adjusted the truss rod for me to give it slightly more curve.I like a low action.so I lowered it to my height,then set the intonation.Was a super easey and fun bass to play,but I sold it for a maple fret board Squire Bronco that I moded that my own way.Im holding it in my avatar pic.I have a thing for blonde neck basses.LOL.If they had a maple fret board modle I would definatly buy it again.I loved the way it played.FYI
 
One thing I do when tweaking a truss rod is to clamp the body either with my right arm (heel adjust) or between my knees (headstock adjust) and move the neck with my hand in the direction of desired movement as follows:

- If trying to induce more curve into the neck, loosen the rod slightly, clamp the body, and nudge the neck by pushing from behind the first fret.

- If trying to remove curve from the neck, clamp body, pull back on neck at the first fret, and slightly tighten the truss rod.

The truss rod is not designed to actually move the neck. It is designed to hold the adjustment you make. If you want to know the mechanics of it, look up a tutorial on truss rods. Suffice to say if you have a single acting rod it is easy to damage the wood inside the neck trying to move the neck action by solely turning the truss rod.