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NBD: Squier CV 50s P

Here's the list of things I have purchased, a * indicates the item is still in transit...

Fender brass high mass bridge
Full size 500k CTS pots
Sprague orange drop .047 cap*
22 gauge silicone insulated wire
Full copper shielding
Genuine Switchcraft jack socket
Fender vintage neck plate* (no reason, I just like them)
Seymour Duncan SCPB-3*
Hipshot string retainer*
Hipshot O ring knobs* (personal preference)
Schaller strap locks
Graphtec Tusq-xl nut
Gotoh FB30 Lollipops*
Rotosound rotobass 35s

Once all that is in place I'll do a full seven point set up. I intend to play it for at least a week to get a feel for it out of the box, so I can appraise the upgrades properly and recommend/ discourage as appropriate. I may do a pickguard delete, waxing over the screw holes, but I'm liking the look for now.

Add an Electrosocket to your list and swap it in when putting the new Jack in. Trust me.

Edit. Oh I see you are done. Didn’t that Jack cup P you off when swapping the Switchcraft in? Junk. Electrosocket. Trust me. :)
 
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Add an Electrosocket to your list and swap it in when putting the new Jack in. Trust me.

Edit. Oh I see you are done. Didn’t that Jack cup P you off when swapping the Switchcraft in? Junk. Electrosocket. Trust me. :)

The jack cup was horrible to work with. Should have got an Electrosocket, but the Switchcraft will probably outlive me, so I don't foresee having to mess with it again.

Looks fantastic! Those knobs are killer too!!

I have them on three basses now. They look really retro cool. Quite expensive, though. There is a Chinese copy which I tried once, and they wouldn't sit right on the shaft.

Nice solder work..very neat and professional...and tubing!!

Thanks. I was quite pleased with it. I really like this new soldering station. Not entirely happy with a couple of the gound joints to the vol pot case. I don't think I had the temperature high enough for lead free solder. 350 degrees C (the station doesn't do American degrees) wasn't enough. 420 was just what I needed. As in life...

I forgot about the copper shielding. I only did the control cavity. The pickup sits almost entirely above the body so it seemed a waste of time doing the pickup cavity.

20220511_204246[1].jpg


Perfect playmate for my other very modified Squier, a '99 thin body (38 vs 42mm) Affinity Strat with Grovers, Graphtec nut, Tone Rider Alnico-Vs, CTS pots, orange drops, 12 hole Fender pickguard, copper shielding... the usual drill.

20220511_205445[1].jpg


Oh, and those Gotoh lollipops are my new favorite thing.
 
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Oh.... I noticed you have the same Gotoh Lollipops I have on my Jazz.... You're correct in stating the plate size.... Mine slightly hang over the headstock edge on the G tuner... No biggie you cant see it from the front.

Yeah, the G tuner is probably 20 thou at best from the edge of the headstock. The low E Grover on the Strat actually does overhang by a hair or two. One day I'll grind it back.
 
Upgrades complete. I assembled the wiring harness using my fancy new digital control soldering station, which is something I should have bought a long time ago.

CTS 500k pots for a slight brightness increase over the stock 250k, .047 Sprague orange drop, genuine Switchcraft jack for longevity and the positive "click", and 22SWG silicone insulated extra flexible wire.

View attachment 4687031

I had to redrill the control plate and jack escutcheon (word of the day) from the metric 8.5mm to 3/8" for the CTS pots and Switchcraft jack. 9.5mm for the rest of the world.

Once installed, I was able to fit the Hipshot knobs, which is just a personal preference.

View attachment 4687032

Has it made a difference? Yes. Obviously a little brighter due to 500k pots, but I can get a much more useful range out of the tone control now than I could from the stock wiring. Not an expensive or in your face visible upgrade, but well worth spending the couple of hours of your time on doing.

It was a good bass. Now it's a great one.
Shielding tape job looks perfect.
Looks like no melting going on with that silicone insulation.
I crank the iron up to 700 or 800F for soldering to the pot cases.

Nice clean work. :thumbsup: . . :bassist:
 
Add an Electrosocket to your list and swap it in when putting the new Jack in. Trust me.

Edit. Oh I see you are done. Didn’t that Jack cup P you off when swapping the Switchcraft in? Junk. Electrosocket. Trust me. :)

No No No..... That Electrosocket thingy looks like a satellite dish. Just get the stewmac removal and installation tool ($16) just in case it gives you trouble in the future. I used it on my Brazilian Rosewood George Harrison Tele Build and that tool works like charm.
 
No No No..... That Electrosocket thingy looks like a satellite dish. Just get the stewmac removal and installation tool ($16) just in case it gives you trouble in the future. I used it on my Brazilian Rosewood George Harrison Tele Build and that tool works like charm.
lol, It’s a —- Jack cup. Just like the stock is a cup. If anyone sits there staring at the Jack on the side of the bass, worrying if it is too round or whatever, then the problem is with that person.

The fact is that they offer orders of magnitude of improvement over the stock cup and there are few alternatives. The only visual they put out is a steady and stable fixture if you happen to spend time looking at it.

And you don’t need a special tool. Just thread it on the Jack really tight and forget it.

But I’m not here to change hearts and minds so I’ll let folks get back to staring at their own Jacks.
 
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I don't see it as a character flaw wanting to keep the original look of tele jack ferrule style. Personally I think it looks better than that Electrosocket thingy. The only way the internal retainer clip comes loose if you or someone is constantly stepping on your cord and gets yanked it out, or you drop your bass on the jack while the cable is plugged in.

I own three teles and never had a single problem with the Fender tele jack ferrule.
 
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I don't see it as a character flaw wanting to keep the original look of tele jack ferrule style. Personally I think it looks better than that Electrosocket thingy. The only way the internal retainer clip comes loose if you or someone is constantly stepping on your cord and gets yanked it out, or you drop your bass on the jack while the cable is plugged in.

I own three teles and never had a single problem with the Fender tele jack ferrule.
Lol. It seemed pretty important to you in your post. I am just saying, swapping a cup shaped object for another cup shaped object isn’t that far to travel.

This medium doesn’t convey emotion well, and you gave me a chuckle this morning. For that I thank you and wish you a happy one.

Edit: WAIT! You’re right, it looks like a satellite dish! Here’s mine. Look at it! It’s hideous.
DFE6EC0F-9642-4BFF-BC50-B3FF2714DF1C.jpeg
 
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Maybe.... But yes I constantly stare at my guitars and basses when I'm in my Jimi Hendrix Room when not playing them and admire all aspect of the slabs. My wife thinks its cute I look at guitars in such detail...... I do the same thing with my BBQer and beer fridge.
 
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Seymour Duncam SCPB-3 Quarter Pounder installed. SD supply slot head screws and two very short lengths of surgical tubing to mount this. I don't think either are fit for purpose. It's very easy to slip out of a slot head screw and damage the finish. I used the Squier screws, and the Squier "bit-o-foam" instead.

I know what you mean. The bridge saddle screws on my Modern Vintage Jazz Bass are like that and I have to be real careful when making adjustments. Nice work on the bass! I’ve also modded Squiers (a bass and a guitar) and I’m happy with the results.
 
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Maybe.... But yes I constantly stare at my guitars and basses when I'm in my Jimi Hendrix Room when not playing them and admire all aspect of the slabs. My wife thinks its cute I look at guitars in such detail...... I do the same thing with my BBQer and beer fridge.
I show people I work with pictures of my basses and guitars, as if they were my kids. And they make appropriate cooing noises, as if they were my kids.

They all think I'm really weird, anyway, so it doesn't matter.
 
that was a great looking ax to begin with, @ChickWithaRic, but you've managed a bunch of cool mods/upgrades, marvelously! i know it's a player! congratulations on your new instrument! :thumbsup:
Thanks I'm really pleased with it, and the upgrades. All the changes (apart from the vanity addition of Fender vintage neck plate) have had a positive effect on either sound, tuning stability, or playability, but you need to look closely to figure out it's not stock. The high mass bridge is probably the most obvious thing, but it works well aesthetically and I think they are a genuine bargain. A solid all brass bridge for under $60, with genuine Fender 5 hole fit and branding? I'll take one.
 
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