Double Bass NBD, the dark side

[voodoobassist]

So drinking my coffee and perusing CL and TB classifieds this morning, and I stumble across this,...... an upright bass on CL for $150!!! Its a bit of a drive for me, not quite an hour, but I text the guy and set up a meet. He said it was a 3/4, but I'm pretty sure its a 1/2. I'm pretty ignorant on double basses, but from what I can gather via google, it's an okay student model Schroetter. Came with a decent bag and a bow. It's definitely not as nice as the electric sitting next to it, but, it'll come in handy for dealing with the lockdown blues. Ladies and gents, my first doghouse! For a buck fifty, I'm more than happy!

 

[Jason Stock]

Have fun with it! I don't play mine as often anymore (and have not done a show with it in years) but still fun to have an upright

 

[Don Hergert]

If the instrument is not in need of immediate repair, the only way you can lose at that price is if you hurt yourself with it. (The bridge does look a little strange, pics perhaps???)

Double basses are much more physically demanding than BGs. Make sure the setup is good, the action is playable, and study up on how to play without damaging your hands, elbows and shoulders.

Starting out with lessons from a good double bass teacher would be one way to do that.

And yes, have fun!!!

 

[unbrokenchain]

Welcome to the rabbit hole... it may just be a photo illusion, but that actually looks like a carved top. Pics when you get it, and string length measurement (nut to bridge) please. Hunderd fitty, sheesh can't even buy a Squier Pbass for that these days

 

[rickwolff]

Nice snag! Congratulations, dude.

 

[voodoobassist]

Some close up pics. The action seems a bit high to me, but I'm a babe in the woods when it comes to these creatures. I've played electric for 50 years, but only had a double in my hands a few times back in my youth. Any insight is appreciated. Scale is 38", nut to bridge , so definitely a 1/2 scale according to mr Google. Some close ups of my deal of the day.

 

[Don Hergert]

The action is very high, with those strings it should probably be around the 5mm to 10mm range at the end of the fingerboard.

From the first pic the bridge looked like it might be developing a curve in it which if it is the case would require corrective action soon. A pic looking down at the bridge would help.

Regarding the action, it could be the bridge has not been sized for this bass, or it could be that the neck is bowing or that the neck joint is not holding properly. A few pics of the neck joint area would be helpful. A straight edge along the length of the seam of the fingerboard and neck would tell whether the neck is bowing and pics of that would also be helpful.

At this point that action is really not playable, especially with those strings. I'd suggest don't try to play it too much to avoid hurting your hands, until you know what is happening with the neck.

Just to let you know, if the neck joint is not holding, that is a very common, but also a very major repair. Neck bow could also be a major repair, but might also be gently correctable without major surgery. A bad neck joint should be repaired asap given the effect on action. A possible temporary work around for neck bow might be bridge adjustments and lower tension strings, but it should also be fixed asap.

Of course the best way to have this properly diagnosed is to take it to a luthier.

 

[voodoobassist]

The action is very high, with those strings it should probably be around the 5mm to 10mm range at the end of the fingerboard.

From the first pic the bridge looked like it might be developing a curve in it which if it is the case would require corrective action soon. A pic looking down at the bridge would help.

Regarding the action, it could be the bridge has not been sized for this bass, or it could be that the neck is bowing or that the neck joint is not holding properly. A few pics of the neck joint area would be helpful. A straight edge along the length of the seam of the fingerboard and neck would tell whether the neck is bowing and pics of that would also be helpful.

At this point that action is really not playable, especially with those strings. I'd suggest don't try to play it too much to avoid hurting your hands, until you know what is happening with the neck.

Just to let you know, if the neck joint is not holding, that is a very common, but also a very major repair. Neck bow could also be a major repair, but might also be gently correctable without major surgery. A bad neck joint should be repaired asap given the effect on action. A possible temporary work around for neck bow might be bridge adjustments and lower tension strings, but it should also be fixed asap.

Of course the best way to have this properly diagnosed is to take it to a luthier.

I'm no expert by any means, but the neck joint appears to be solid. No signs of lifting or anything odd at the joint. We do have a reputable violin shop here locally, so I'll be taking it in for a once over. Eyeballing the neck, it appears to be pretty straight. But once again, I'm definitely not knowledgeable enough on acoustic basses to make that call. Hopefully a decent setup will help the action. A friend mentioned investing in an adjustable bridge. Any thoughts on that are appreciated. Because yes, it's very difficult to play with the action as it is. Appreciate all you guys input. I can setup and tweak an electric to perfection, this however,......

 

[TroyK]

An adjustable bridge will need to be expertly fitted and will cost you more than you paid for the bass. The bridge you have (if it is straight) could be shaped to the table and fingerboard and shortened to lower the strings. The middle of each foot should align with the notches in the closest F-Hole.

 

[voodoobassist]

An adjustable bridge will need to be expertly fitted and will cost you more than you paid for the bass. The bridge you have (if it is straight) could be shaped to the table and fingerboard and shortened to lower the strings. The middle of each foot should align with the notches in the closest F-Hole.

Thanks much. I definitely want to keep this on the affordable side of things. No gigs and no outlook on when they'll be back has definitely tightened my budget.

 

[unbrokenchain]

Half size, meh, but for the price you paid rock it! Yeah moving the bridge to the right spot will get you started on lowering the string height, but that looks pretty painful (no wonder they sold it ), still plenty of wood left to work with on the bridge though. Looks like you've got a cheap ebonized fingerboard, but a solid top, so there's that. Get a setup, some new strings, and a bow when you can. If you're handy with a knife, sandpaper, and files, you can do some bridge work yourself, which I've done when I couldn't afford luthier help. Search the setup/repair archives, and go slow. But strings, while not cheap, will also makes worlds of difference.

 

[Sam Sherry]

I definitely want to keep this on the affordable side of things.

In case it isn't clear so far, "Mission Accomplished!"

No gigs and no outlook on when they'll be back has definitely tightened my budget.

As Levon Helm used to say, "We got nothin' but time." This is the perfect time to take on a new tool for new musical directions. Go explore, maestro!

 

[210superair]

Nice score!

 

[Stewie]

I recently bought a second hand Thompson plywood bass. It's action was too high for me (amplified heavily using a magnetic pickup). I removed 1/4 of an inch from the top side of the bridge at the adjusters and reinstalled it (cabinet maker by trade, had the correct tools). A luthier should be able to install adjusters and lower the bridge for a reasonable cost

 

[GretschWretch]

A half-size may not get you into Carnegie Hall, but IMO it is the perfect street-corner busker's bass.

 

[KUNGfuSHERIFF]

To confirm if the neck is straight, lay a yardstick along the joint between the neck and fingerboard.

Schroetter is a trade name that has been applied to a succession of factory-produced instruments. Early ones were made in Germany by Hofner (yes, THAT Hofner), then anonymously in Romania, and most recently anonymously in China.

Yours might be Romanian; I'm not getting enough information from your photos. The top is definitely carved.

 

[Ed S]

Caution - proceed beyond the red line at your peril!

Nice score - enjoy!

 

[voodoobassist]

Call to a violin shop today,...rough estimate for cutting down the bridge,...around 50 bucks,.....strings, around $75-80,..... my budget bass is still in the budget category!

 

[TroyK]

Doublebass strings are expensive and vital. The strings on your bass are either Spirocores or Red Labels. Good strings will make an enormous difference.

1/2 Size Spirocores are $250/set at one on-line retailer and will last as long as the bass. You'll be able to hear the pitch and they will produce great sound.

1/2 Size D'Addario Hybrids are $134/set and will probably be very good also for your needs. Most would say that Spirocores were better, but not sure if they would be $110 better for your purposes.

SuperSensitive Red Labels are about $80 and also might be what is on your bass currently, but I would not recommend.They'll be stiff an indistinct sounding.

If you took good pictures of the silks in the pegbox and the ball-ends behind the tailpiece, we could tell you for sure what was on your bass now. There are limited options for 1/2 sized basses, which is a blessing because it will keep you from falling down that particular rabbit hole.