• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Neccesity of strap locks?

Just watch out for the Schallers... the loktite suggestion is a good one. :ninja:

+1.

I have used Schallers and Dunlops for years and Ernie Balls since they were released. The only locks that have had failed/came apart in my 25+ years of playing are Schallers. I still use them on a few of my guitars/basses though.

Having said that, loktite is a great idea as is just checking to see if the nut is on tight. Easy to forget to check your straplocks before every gig/rehersal though.
 
+1.

I have used Schallers and Dunlops for years and Ernie Balls since they were released. The only locks that have had failed/came apart in my 25+ years of playing are Schallers. I still use them on a few of my guitars/basses though.

Having said that, loktite is a great idea as is just checking to see if the nut is on tight. Easy to forget to check your straplocks before every gig/rehersal though.

Interesting, how do they fail? I prefer them over Dunlops actually.
 
Interesting, how do they fail? I prefer them over Dunlops actually.

Failure to include adequate thread lock. The retainer nut is akin to those that secure a common jack...relatively few threads. I think they're great but not completely fool-proof. I recall one fellow TBer recounting how he mounted his upside down with the channel facing downward.

Edit: has anyone ever had the spring-loaded plunger pin malfunction?

Riis
 
I use Schaller for years, once it failed by it's loosen hexagonal nut (that attches the lock to the strap) by itself. After over tighten it, it never happen again.
But now - since last week - I found in my two P-Bass, one newer 2001 one 1978, that both of their main screws (that attached to the bass) get loosen to. Seems that the holes in the basses get bigger somehow.
I try to fix them by take it off, fill the hole with a 'mix of toothpick & glue' before put on the screw again. But it still get loose after few days. I already repeat the process for three or four times for each of the bass. Getting better every time but eventually they loose again...I think I even have to repeat them again after posting this LOL.

I haven't try other than Schaller tho. Surely will try Dunlop or other later,..maybe when I buy another bass, IDK when :D
 
But now - since last week - I found in my two P-Bass, one newer 2001 one 1978, that both of their main screws (that attached to the bass) get loosen to. Seems that the holes in the basses get bigger somehow.
I try to fix them by take it off, fill the hole with a 'mix of toothpick & glue' before put on the screw again. But it still get loose after few days. I already repeat the process for three or four times for each of the bass. Getting better every time but eventually they loose again...I think I even have to repeat them again after posting this LOL.
Well, the procedure appears to be in spec. You are re-introducing the screw while the glue is still wet, correct?

Riis
 
Interesting, how do they fail? I prefer them over Dunlops actually.

The biggest failure point with the Schallers: the nut that holds the strap onto the lock can come loose and fall off. The lock remains securely attached to the button, but what good is that if the strap comes off of the lock? The recommended solution is to use loctite on the nut. If you prefer Schallers, you definitely want to do this! Keeping the strap on the lock was a constant struggle for me when I used Schallers, and a guitarist bandmate who doesn't move around onstage experienced this problem, so it can happen to anyone, not just hot dogs.

Another failure point: friction between lock and the button can wear away the smooth finish. The locking cup then becomes a wrench which can loosen the strap button. Back in the day this happened to me on the locks on my #1 bass, so I tossed them and bought a new set (all before I switched over to Dunlops Dual Designs of course).

In summary: if you're wedded to Schallers you can avoid the common problems by using Loctite on the nut, and some graphite lubricant in the locking cup. :eyebrow:



I've never experienced any failures with Dunlop Dual Designs, but I've heard about them. One failure point is operator error: not inserting the lock fully into the button. IME it's easy to get into the habit of ensuring that the lock is fully seated. Also, I've heard reports that the bearings in the lock can get clogged with metal dust from abrasion. Again, hasn't happened to me, not even with the locks I've used frequently for over a decade, but some use lubricant (do some research before trying this), others just wipe the dust off the lock every so often.
 
A little Loctite goes a long way.
No reason not to have it in your gig bag.
It costs a few dollars but you'll have it forever (or until you lose it).

I use the Schallers, and I found that the cheap version that's available locally is not interchangeable. The cup part is slightly small for the Schaller lock.

Also, to prevent premature wear I always pull the locking pin up to engage the lock cup the same way you would when unlocking them.
That way there's less friction as you mate the parts together, so less wear.

A little dry graphite lube helps as well.
 
The biggest failure point with the Schallers: the nut that holds the strap onto the lock can come loose and fall off. The lock remains securely attached to the button, but what good is that if the strap comes off of the lock? The recommended solution is to use loctite on the nut. If you prefer Schallers, you definitely want to do this! Keeping the strap on the lock was a constant struggle for me when I used Schallers, and a guitarist bandmate who doesn't move around onstage experienced this problem, so it can happen to anyone, not just hot dogs.

I've seen these happen, and had these happen. In addition, over time the part screwed onto the instrument can come unscrewed and even get pulled out entirely due to the back'n'forth friction.

I solved all my Scahller AND Duncan strap-lock problems by going back to a regular ol' strap. :)
 
Well, the procedure appears to be in spec. You are re-introducing the screw while the glue is still wet, correct?

Riis

Sorry to reply late, I just open TB again.
Yes. First day is Tight OK. Two/Few days later it get loose and even get pulled out from the wood again.
Haven't redo it again now.

I've seen these happen, and had these happen. In addition, over time the part screwed onto the instrument can come unscrewed and even get pulled out entirely due to the back'n'forth friction.

I solved all my Scahller AND Duncan strap-lock problems by going back to a regular ol' strap. :)

Yes, that what's happened to me.

It's possible I'll take your way in not using them again.
 
Sorry to reply late, I just open TB again.
Yes. First day is Tight OK. Two/Few days later it get loose and even get pulled out from the wood again.
Haven't redo it again now.



Yes, that what's happened to me.

It's possible I'll take your way in not using them again.

Are you wedging enough pieces of the toothpick into the hole?! I always put as many as will fit in there, and have never had a problem with them coming loose. Rubber/neoprene washers for me, too...
 
My new Roscoe came with Dunlops, and I have Schallers on my Fender. Slight preference for the Schallers. Initially, the bolts would come loose, but a couple of years ago I clamped a really good wrench on there and cranked 'em, and they haven't moved since.
With the Dunlops, as others have noted, you really have to make sure you hear two clicks. I've already had the strap fall off my Roscoe once and caught the bass. **mild heart attack**. The strap ends are a royal pain to install, and I've never been crazy about how the screws come loose on the bass end and you have to mess with shoving toothpicks down the hole.
My only bass without straplocks is my Reverend. I've had it fall off cheap straps, but I just got a super-thick leather strap for it, and the holes really hug the strap buttons - no chance it's gonna fall off. I may yet add locks.
 
With the Dunlops, ... The strap ends are a royal pain to install,

Kind of, but unlike the Schallers, once the strap locks are on they stay on. And in 10+ years of putting Dunlops on all my straps, installation has become a piece of cake.


and I've never been crazy about how the screws come loose on the bass end and you have to mess with shoving toothpicks down the hole.

The screws for both the Schaller and Dunlop buttons are smaller than many non-locking strap buttons, so when retrofitting I assume that I will need to insert a toothpick. The last time I inserted a toothpick I didn't even bother with glue, and the Dunlop button has remained secure: probably because there's less friction with Dunlops due to the ball bearings.


I don't mean to sound like a shill... just explaining why one brand is best for me by far.
 
Are you wedging enough pieces of the toothpick into the hole?! I always put as many as will fit in there, and have never had a problem with them coming loose. Rubber/neoprene washers for me, too...

Hi Jeff,.. too late to read your post and reply :)
For now (I've done it yesterday) I just try a bit bigger screws, I sand the screw's head a bit so it can get into the locker hole, then I put on them. So far so good.
But if it ever fail again, I'll repeat it as your suggestion, thanks.