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Necessary Router Bits

B

Ben Coffin

Dec 8, 2009
340
1
Auburn, AL
#1
So I've searched the stickies, FAQ and used the search bar with little to no luck, so I guess this is where I start a thread lol :D I know, another tool thread. :hiding:

I'm putting together my shop in my garage at home, and I've got most of the major tools. Band saw, drill press, router, Dremel Trio (Which is awesome btw), tons of electrical equiptment from school, etc. My router is a Porter Cable multi-base kit that my dad bought a few years back and never opened or used. The major reason he never used it was because he didn't buy any bits. :rollno: So here's the question: What are the necessary bits to get started? I've come across hundreds of bits whether on the internet or at Woodcraft or at Sears. What would you guys in the LC recommend as far as roundovers, flush-trim, etc? Any input would be great.
 
#2
Roundovers, 3/16",1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4"........Look for a set if you can. Always remember to use sharp bits.....dull ones not so great.

Straight, 1/4, 1/2 (since you have a drill press, get some forstner bits)

Bearing bits, 3/8" and 1/2"

Make sure you're getting the matching shank as your router........ (either 1/4" or 1/2")


That's at least a good start.
 
#3
Rickett Customs said:
Roundovers, 3/16",1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4"........Look for a set if you can. Always remember to use sharp bits.....dull ones not so great.

Straight, 1/4, 1/2 (since you have a drill press, get some forstner bits)

Bearing bits, 3/8" and 1/2"

Make sure you're getting the matching shank as your router........ (either 1/4" or 1/2")


That's at least a good start.
Click to expand...

Awesome, that helps a lot. My plan was a set of roundovers and a set of forstners, and then a few bearings. I wasn't sure of what size to get as far as any of them went.
 
#5
I have a 1/2" bearing pattern bit with a 2" carbide height that I really like. It has proved useful for cutting bodies out with templates. It is especially good for milling straight lines, which is difficult to do with a bandsaw/spindle sander.
 
#6
HaMMerHeD said:
I have a 1/2" bearing pattern bit with a 2" carbide height that I really like. It has proved useful for cutting bodies out with templates. It is especially good for milling straight lines, which is difficult to do with a bandsaw/spindle sander.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm definitely interested in using a bit for cutting with a template, thanks for the input on height, I have no idea what height some of these bits should be :help:
 
#7
Ben Coffin said:
Yeah, I'm definitely interested in using a bit for cutting with a template, thanks for the input on height, I have no idea what height some of these bits should be :help:
Click to expand...

For cutting a body out (or flushing a bandsaw cut rough edge to a pattern/template), it seems logical that the cutter should be at least the thickness of the body, right? Give most bass bodies are between 1.5" and 1.75", I thought a 2" cutter would be perfect.
 
#8
Ben Coffin said:
Yeah, I'm definitely interested in using a bit for cutting with a template, thanks for the input on height, I have no idea what height some of these bits should be :help:
Click to expand...

Height on the bearing bits is a tricky one. Depends on the meaterial that you use for the templates and all that. I have the 1/2" and 3/8" bits from Stewmac and they are nice and short so that you can use the thinner acrylic templates for the pickup routes and such without going the full depth of the route in one pass or having to raise the template up off of the body. They aren't great for the control cavity though as they aren't quite long enough.

I would recommend that you get these as well as a longer pattern bit. I have the 1/2"øx1" bit from Freud and it's great.

I think that a flush trim bit is important too. I'm currently working on a short scale neck thru 4 string and I've made extensive use of a flush trim bit and it has been a huge asset as far as bits go.

that'smy 2 cents on the subject though. The right tool for the job make life much easier for sure. Oh and don't skimp on good router bits. You'll be happy that you didn't, or sorry that you did...
 
#9
Get a *shallow* 1/2" wide pattern but (bearing on top). Mine has been invaluable for starting out cavity routes. The Stew-Mac bit is too long, IMO, for the shallowness of their templates. I prefer the Whiteside 1/2" wide 1/4" deep pattern bit I found at Woodcraft.

After routing the basic cavity shape into a body using a template, I will frequently remove the template and swap to a longer pattern bit, so that I can achieve the necessary depth. My router only accepts 1/4" shank bits, so that limits me a little...
 
#10
Good bits get pricey very quickly, and you'll surely figure out which bits you need for the way that you want to do the work, but: I've had good luck with spiral cut flush trim bits (with bearings) from Whiteside. I have 1/4" and 1/2" shank bits, and the 1/4" has been indispensable for trimming the sides of fingerboards (using MDF templates I made), and then for trimming the sides of necks once the fingerboards were glued up. I've used the 1/2" shank bit for flush trimming body sides, but it isn't quite long enough to do an entire 1 3/4" thick body. The spiral cut bits make quite smooth cuts, and while I'm no expert I believe they're less likely to have issues with tear out. The downside is these bits can get seriously expensive -- I think the 1/2" shank bit was about $70 -- but it's all carbide and wicked sharp.
 
#12
Hi Ben,

In general, for this question and others, my suggestion is always to first identify the need, and then select the tool.

What this means is that you should plan out your operations, and think through what cutter you intend to use for each specific operation. Then, buy what you need. Don't overspend on what you think you might use.

For example, I think you don't need a set of 6 or so roundover bits. Find a radius you like and just get that one. The per-bit price is cheaper in the sets, but the savings are wasted if you end up with bits that you don't use.

The money you save by being selective should go back into getting the best quality bits you can afford. Dull bits suck at best, and at worst can be dangerous, loud, and give you bad results.

Specific suggestions:
-Definitely a shallow, top-bearing bit for doing pickup cavities, neck routes, etc. SDB's suggestion is right on. Eagle America and Pricecutter.com both have viable options, as well as the Whiteside bit he suggests.

-I would be reluctant to route the edge of a guitar in one shot with a 2" cutter, especially with a hand router. Unless you bandsaw really close, you'll be hanging on for dear life, and probably moving slowly enough to burn the wood and/or overheat the cutter.

Better would be to use a top bearing bit following a pattern for the first inch or so, and then a bottom-bearing bit for the last 3/4" (routing from the other side, bearing on the part you've already routed).

Be mindful of grain direction and potential tear-out, especially when going "uphill". Spiral bits can be very helpful with that, and you can get them with bottom bearings.

A router is in many ways the most useful tool a solidbody builder can have, and certainly the most versatile. As with any other tool, efficient and cost-effective use will depend on your planning, and picking the right bit for each operation.

As always, I'll recommend MIMF.COM as a great resource. If you register (it's free!), you can access the Library of Archived Discussions, which has tons of information on how different people approach almost every phase of building an instrument. It's one of the best resources online.

Cheers,
Martin
 
#13
Keith Guitars said:
Hi Ben,

In general, for this question and others, my suggestion is always to first identify the need, and then select the tool.

What this means is that you should plan out your operations, and think through what cutter you intend to use for each specific operation. Then, buy what you need. Don't overspend on what you think you might use.

For example, I think you don't need a set of 6 or so roundover bits. Find a radius you like and just get that one. The per-bit price is cheaper in the sets, but the savings are wasted if you end up with bits that you don't use.

The money you save by being selective should go back into getting the best quality bits you can afford. Dull bits suck at best, and at worst can be dangerous, loud, and give you bad results.

Specific suggestions:
-Definitely a shallow, top-bearing bit for doing pickup cavities, neck routes, etc. SDB's suggestion is right on. Eagle America and Pricecutter.com both have viable options, as well as the Whiteside bit he suggests.

-I would be reluctant to route the edge of a guitar in one shot with a 2" cutter, especially with a hand router. Unless you bandsaw really close, you'll be hanging on for dear life, and probably moving slowly enough to burn the wood and/or overheat the cutter.

Better would be to use a top bearing bit following a pattern for the first inch or so, and then a bottom-bearing bit for the last 3/4" (routing from the other side, bearing on the part you've already routed).

Be mindful of grain direction and potential tear-out, especially when going "uphill". Spiral bits can be very helpful with that, and you can get them with bottom bearings.

A router is in many ways the most useful tool a solidbody builder can have, and certainly the most versatile. As with any other tool, efficient and cost-effective use will depend on your planning, and picking the right bit for each operation.

As always, I'll recommend MIMF.COM as a great resource. If you register (it's free!), you can access the Library of Archived Discussions, which has tons of information on how different people approach almost every phase of building an instrument. It's one of the best resources online.

Cheers,
Martin
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot Martin, I really appreciate the in depth answer and as a big fan of your work (and shop!! :hyper: ) I absolutely appreciate the advice. The body cutting bits are definitely something to take into consideration, I was interested in having a top bearing and bottom bearing bit for just that. How shallow of a bit would you recommend for a cavity bit? I also appreciate the advice on roundovers, I was looking at prices for kits, and thought that having just one or two of what I prefer would have been much easier (and cheaper).

So general question to the LC, what roundover is used on a Fender Jazz out of curiousity? My first builds, after templates and jigs of course, are going to be some test jazz bodies out of pine.

Edit: I also have and plan on using a router table. Idk if that makes a difference to anything, but that's what I'll be using as far as final body shaping.
 
#14
Martin, perhaps you're right. I tend to use the adage of "you can never have enough clamps", to router bits, but then again I use them all........


Keith Guitars said:
Hi Ben,

In general, for this question and others, my suggestion is always to first identify the need, and then select the tool.

What this means is that you should plan out your operations, and think through what cutter you intend to use for each specific operation. Then, buy what you need. Don't overspend on what you think you might use.

For example, I think you don't need a set of 6 or so roundover bits. Find a radius you like and just get that one. The per-bit price is cheaper in the sets, but the savings are wasted if you end up with bits that you don't use.

The money you save by being selective should go back into getting the best quality bits you can afford. Dull bits suck at best, and at worst can be dangerous, loud, and give you bad results.

Specific suggestions:
-Definitely a shallow, top-bearing bit for doing pickup cavities, neck routes, etc. SDB's suggestion is right on. Eagle America and Pricecutter.com both have viable options, as well as the Whiteside bit he suggests.

-I would be reluctant to route the edge of a guitar in one shot with a 2" cutter, especially with a hand router. Unless you bandsaw really close, you'll be hanging on for dear life, and probably moving slowly enough to burn the wood and/or overheat the cutter.

Better would be to use a top bearing bit following a pattern for the first inch or so, and then a bottom-bearing bit for the last 3/4" (routing from the other side, bearing on the part you've already routed).

Be mindful of grain direction and potential tear-out, especially when going "uphill". Spiral bits can be very helpful with that, and you can get them with bottom bearings.

A router is in many ways the most useful tool a solidbody builder can have, and certainly the most versatile. As with any other tool, efficient and cost-effective use will depend on your planning, and picking the right bit for each operation.

As always, I'll recommend MIMF.COM as a great resource. If you register (it's free!), you can access the Library of Archived Discussions, which has tons of information on how different people approach almost every phase of building an instrument. It's one of the best resources online.

Cheers,
Martin
Click to expand...
 
#15
With free shipping (Amazon) it's gotten less costly to "buy as you go". I believe you can do CMT and Freud there at least. Maybe Whiteside, too? I have some tools that I thought I would use but don't, good to keep that to a minimum.

Bare essentials (for me):

1/4" straight, for truss rods and pattern cutting. Spiral upcut is nice. I prefer 1/2" shank when possible.
3/4" straight, plunge, 1/2" shank for hogging.
1/2" top-bearing, shallow is best, I think I have a 3/4" CMT now.
1/2" flush trim.
1/2" roundover with 1/2" shank.
1/2" round bottom for truss access.

I use a handful of other bits but I believe I could get by with those (flush trim is probably optional but helpful).
 
#16
Ben Coffin said:
So general question to the LC, what roundover is used on a Fender Jazz out of curiousity? My first builds, after templates and jigs of course, are going to be some test jazz bodies out of pine.
Click to expand...

fender generally used a 7/16" roundover on their bodies. some people use a 3/8" and then when it's final sanded, it becomes a 7/16" radius. personally, i use a 7/16".
 
#17
When I have apprentices I always point them toward MLCS for their first router bits. The quality is good, and they are cost effective for first timers. Newbs shouldn't have to spend $250 on bits they may end up using once or twice, and as some of us know, most who have a "passion" for bass building lose the "passion" when they find out how much REAL work is involved.

You can get any bit listed above through MLCS at 1/4 to 1/2 the price of the high end, and allow yourself a few months of good performance to find out if you really do want to invest in the better tools. Once you figure that out, you can start buying Whiteside, Amana, CMT, Freud, etc., and if you decide you don't "really" want to do it afterall, you have saved yourself a good deal of money.

Bits I reccommend to start to my apprentices:
1/2" and 3/8" shallow pattern bits *(1/2" to 5/8" cutter height)
3/8", 1/2", and 3/4" roundovers (1/2" shaft)
1/2" pattern bit (1" or 1.25" cutter height)
3/4" flush trim (1.5" cutter height 1.25" or 1" is also fine)
1/4" straight (3/4" cutting height ....quells bit screech in harder woods) for truss rods.

These will get you started. Martin, Jason, and the FBB guy all made great points also.
 
#19
Correct Pete. As martin said above, you can get spiral cutting bits with bottom bearings for flush trimming, and these can give a really high quality cut especially on figured and brittle woods. Just waiting for someone to start making spiral pattern bits.
 
#20
Well thank you all for your input, it definitely cleared up any questions I had and provided me with a wealth of knowledge (and more tool G.A.S.). I've decided on going with MLCS bits with regards to what Musiclogic said, and it seems like the best approach to get started. I'm ordering five bits, and luckily they cost about as much as one bit that I was looking at before this thread :rolleyes: I'm getting:

Two pattern trim bits, both 1/2", one that's 1/2" long for cavities and 1" for body shaping
A 3/8" roundover bit
A 1/4" spiral upcut bit
And a 3/4" Plunge straight bit

I'm also getting a 24" Boomer Bar Classic Clamp from them, because my bandsaw came with no fence, and I feel like I would use that a lot. Thanks for all your help guys!! I'll be posting build threads soon :ninja:
 

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