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Neck/Bridge alignment question...

On my OLP MM it seems that the bridge is just a little out of alignment. I think this is true because the G string is closer to the edge of the neck than the E string is. And the marker dots are not in the center of the A and D strings (they are a little closer to the A string).

I had this happen to another one of my basses and I simply moved the bridge over (after careful measurements) and all is good. But I cannot simply move this bridge as there are inset nuts under the bridge that the screws go into (I already tried).

I also do not think that I can adjust the neck, as the pocket on it is quite tight (although I have not actually removed it).

Does anyone have any ideas for me? Anything that I can try that might help it? The playability is fine, I am just bothered by little things like this.

Thanks in advance.
 
Work from the simplest to the most complex. It could be true that your bridge is not centered on the body. However, it is more likely that the neck is misaligned in the pocket. Even if the pocket is tight there should be enough room to move the neck. The other thing you can do is find the centerline on the body and make sure the bridge is centered on that line. Without seeing the instrument it is impossible to tell. However, the neck is where to start.
 
Work from the simplest to the most complex. It could be true that your bridge is not centered on the body. However, it is more likely that the neck is misaligned in the pocket. Even if the pocket is tight there should be enough room to move the neck. The other thing you can do is find the centerline on the body and make sure the bridge is centered on that line. Without seeing the instrument it is impossible to tell. However, the neck is where to start.

I agree with starting with the neck first. Loosen the strings to create a little slack, back off the neck screws enough to move the neck, realign neck until the strings have equal edge distance. Retighen neck screws and strings. I use a Strait-Line Laser level to check neck alignment(center line) in relation to the bridge. Set on bridge center line and the beam shines on the neck at the nut, move neck until the nut is centered. Works for me.
 
OK...I will try it again...Should I sand the pocket on the E side and shim the other???

Only if you're an experienced woodworker who has logged a lot of time in instrument repair. Do not change anything on the body or the neck. At least not until you define the problem. So far you're concentrating on neck alignment.

How hard did you pull on the neck? Sometimes you have to grip the body very tightly in your left arm and yank hard on the neck.


  1. Detune strings a couple of whole steps
  2. Loosen bolts at three or four full revolutions
  3. Brace the body in the crook of your weak arm very tightly
  4. Grasp the neck just below the nut
  5. Pull hard
  6. Check alignment
  7. Repeat if necessary
  8. Tighten screws
  9. Tune the guitar

Let us know what you find.
 
OK...I tried readjusting the neck...I got it to move just a little more (yes I pulled HARD). Not much change. So following the advice I got out my laser level to see if the bridge was out of alignment. YUP!!!! The bridge needs to move about 4mm to the E string side. So I removed it to see if I could move it...I could, but the inset nuts would show and I wouldn't be able to use the screw holes on the side...

Any advice???? Should I try to move it (I have done it on other basses of mine with no problems)? Should I change the bridge? Something else???
 
Exactly what 202dy said.

I usually don't even loosen the strings... just loosen the screws a few turns, and sit the bass in your lap like you are going to play it, lean your right arm over the body and hold it. Grab the neck up at the nut for more leverage. Then either pull or push depending on which way you want it to move. Really give it a yank! You might hear some creaking, but that's OK. Then tighten the screws.

Don't worry about breaking anything... you wont.
 
If the bridge is misaligned then it should be moved. If the footprint of the existing bridge will not cover the work then there are two options. The first would be to remove the inserts, plug the holes, reinstall the inserts (or select proper wood screws), bore, touch up, and mount. The second would be to acquire a new bridge with a larger footprint that covers the work.
 
In doing all of this, has it affected the intonation along the neck of the bass? Just something I'd be wary of myself.

Intonation is more a matter of string hight. This is a lateral shift. Actually it's putting the neck back where it was when the bass was put together. This is a common problem with some bolt on necks.

Usually the bridge is in the right place. You can tell this if the strings line up over the pickup closest to the bridge.
 
Congratulations. As you have found, even in a tight pocket there is plenty of room for adjustment.

It appears the bridge is in the right place. They usually are.
 
Intonation is more a matter of string hight. This is a lateral shift. Actually it's putting the neck back where it was when the bass was put together. This is a common problem with some bolt on necks.

Usually the bridge is in the right place. You can tell this if the strings line up over the pickup closest to the bridge.

Actually, I thought action was dealing more with string height. And the intonation was the instrument's ability to stay in tune with itself in a lateral sense...

What I'm getting at is, if you're shifting the angle of the neck, even slightly, you'll change the alignment of the frets in relation to the bridge, and thus intonation will be affected. Or will it?
 
Congratulations. As you have found, even in a tight pocket there is plenty of room for adjustment.

It appears the bridge is in the right place. They usually are.

I determined the bridge was right as the middle of it was directly on the line where the two halves of the top layer meets (don't know if that maked sense).


Actually, I thought action was dealing more with string height. And the intonation was the instrument's ability to stay in tune with itself in a lateral sense...:eyebrow:

What I'm getting at is, if you're shifting the angle of the neck, even slightly, you'll change the alignment of the frets in relation to the bridge, and thus intonation will be affected. Or will it?

Well, I don't know if you are right or not, but I was straightening out the neck alignment with the bridge...so if anything I think it should have made it better (in this case).:confused:
 
Actually, I thought action was dealing more with string height. And the intonation was the instrument's ability to stay in tune with itself in a lateral sense...

What I'm getting at is, if you're shifting the angle of the neck, even slightly, you'll change the alignment of the frets in relation to the bridge, and thus intonation will be affected. Or will it?

The distance between the nut and the bridge hasn't really changed, not by any appreciable amount. The neck was just shifted slightly to the side, while staying pivoted from the same spot. If anything when the neck was misaligned the frets might have been angled slightly.

Intonation is mostly effected by how far the string has to stretch as you press it down to the fingerboard, which is why we compensate by moving the saddles farther from the nut to flatten the notes.

In either case it can be fixed by adjusting the saddles.
 
Well, I don't know if you are right or not, but I was straightening out the neck alignment with the bridge...so if anything I think it should have made it better (in this case).:confused:

I don't know either, and it probably affected it for the better, however surely the intonation would be different than prior to the neck adjustment, due to the subtle shift in angle of the frets?