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neck dive?

I was always under the impression that you buy the expensive basses to avoid stuff like that. :p :hiding:


No - that's one of the reasons why you have to try basses before you buy !! :hmm:

I would never buy a bass with neck dive - very uncomfortable for long gigs and I'm always surprised how many do this - OK if you're just sitting in your bedroom I suppose...:eyebrow:
 
My rickenbacker has it to. It is pretty annoying on longer gigs as it gets real uncomfortable. Have been thinking about a way to "counterbalance" it by using a weight on my strap, but I don't want to make my rick heavier than it already is :p

My Tacoma has neck dive. I got a 1 lb SCUBA weight, the kind that divers wear on a web belt, and threaded my strap through it at the tail of the bass. It's a little bit of a PITA getting it on and off, but once in place it works great.
 
My Tacoma has neck dive. I got a 1 lb SCUBA weight, the kind that divers wear on a web belt, and threaded my strap through it at the tail of the bass. It's a little bit of a PITA getting it on and off, but once in place it works great.

Ok now I feel stupid. I have my padi open and advanced and never once thought about using those weights :o That is a great tip ggunn they should fit on my strap I think. Gonna try that one out for sure ! Cheers !
 
There are some options to combat neck dive. I've explored many of them since I like hollowbodies, and many of them tend to be neck divers.

- Relocate top strap button, sometimes to the back heel of the neck.
- String the strap folk music style using a nylon cord under the strings above the nut. (This also tends to shift the instrument to your right, not a good thing if you play near the bridge.)
- Move your BOTTOM strap button counter-clockwise (looking at the front of the instrument) to a spot near where the guitar cable attaches. (Try sticking the cable thru the strap for a test.)
- Install a heavier bridge (the highest and best use of a Badass, IMO - dead weight)
- Install Ultralight tuners to reduce headstock weight.

And the simplest solution of all:

Get a strap with a big, wide sheepskin pad for your shoulder. It provides a lot of friction to keep the bass from shifting, and increases comfort! A wide strap with suede underside may do the same thing.
 
There are some options to combat neck dive. I've explored many of them since I like hollowbodies, and many of them tend to be neck divers.

- Relocate top strap button, sometimes to the back heel of the neck.
- String the strap folk music style using a nylon cord under the strings above the nut. (This also tends to shift the instrument to your right, not a good thing if you play near the bridge.)
- Move your BOTTOM strap button counter-clockwise (looking at the front of the instrument) to a spot near where the guitar cable attaches. (Try sticking the cable thru the strap for a test.)
- Install a heavier bridge (the highest and best use of a Badass, IMO - dead weight)
- Install Ultralight tuners to reduce headstock weight.

And the simplest solution of all:

Get a strap with a big, wide sheepskin pad for your shoulder. It provides a lot of friction to keep the bass from shifting, and increases comfort! A wide strap with suede underside may do the same thing.

Easy solution, get something balanced. I have about 10 basses or so (I should really do some sort of inventory) and there isn't a single neck diver in the bunch.

Luthiers have many tricks to make a bass balanced, but it usually involves a longer top horn.

As for hollowbodies being unbalanced, my Rob Allen basses are chambered (solid block down the center) and they balance perfectly.
 
There are some options to combat neck dive. I've explored many of them since I like hollowbodies, and many of them tend to be neck divers.

- Relocate top strap button, sometimes to the back heel of the neck.
- String the strap folk music style using a nylon cord under the strings above the nut. (This also tends to shift the instrument to your right, not a good thing if you play near the bridge.)
- Move your BOTTOM strap button counter-clockwise (looking at the front of the instrument) to a spot near where the guitar cable attaches. (Try sticking the cable thru the strap for a test.)
- Install a heavier bridge (the highest and best use of a Badass, IMO - dead weight)
- Install Ultralight tuners to reduce headstock weight.

And the simplest solution of all:

Get a strap with a big, wide sheepskin pad for your shoulder. It provides a lot of friction to keep the bass from shifting, and increases comfort! A wide strap with suede underside may do the same thing.

Nope - simplest solution is to always try basses before you buy and only get well-balanced basses!! :p
 
Many Alembic models are classic neck divers. I owned a Series II that had ergonomics (neck dive and reach to first position) that just weren't conducive to my enjoyment of the bass. I sold it to funded a custom Alembic with the Europa body style (basically jazz like in form). No more neck dive and all parts of the neck are very accessible.

Bones
 
My rickenbacker has it to. It is pretty annoying on longer gigs as it gets real uncomfortable. Have been thinking about a way to "counterbalance" it by using a weight on my strap, but I don't want to make my rick heavier than it already is :p

Do a lot of Rics dive?

:(

And here I was, yearning for one to replace Hamer Standard explorer bass I have that dives pretty bad.
 
before.jpg


Cures:
Crab method(like strap button behind a certain fret if possible)

TBStrapMounts.jpg


Another method from the T-Bird fans at http://www.vintagebass.com/thedudepit/forumdisplay.php?f=49
Heelbutton2.jpg


Result
after.jpg


These Levi straps help.
I use a 3-1/2" wide padded
BassStrap_01.gif


or the NEW 5" pad...
BassStrap_02.gif


That ain't me in the top two pix.

ALSO, note where my right forearm is(Entwistle knew this too).
MarineBass02.jpg
 

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