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Neck Removal

Yep, most basses (and guitars) use the screw-into-wood process. Most factory instruments don't have threaded inserts.
I know my 40 year old Ibanez basses didn't have threaded inserts, because I have removed the necks several times. :)

It really is just 2 pieces of wood held together with some screws. Don't overthink it. ;)
 
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Make sure you have properly a fitting Phillips driver- usually a #2, and it should almost 'stick' in the slot.

While you have the neck off, be sure the thru-body holes are 'just' large enough for the screws to slip thru- NOT have to be screwed thru. This allows the neck to be properly secured to the body when tightening it back up- the screws won't get hung in the body holes.
 
Depending on why the neck is being removed, sometimes I just back off the string tension and capo the strings 'til the neck goes back on- it keeps the windings on the tuner posts from getting out of position.

Also, the neck heel and pocket are tapered, so the neck needs to be lifted straight up out of the pocket, NOT pulled out thru the end of the pocket.

I use several turns of masking tape at the top nut and, if necessary, I remove the bridge with the strings in, if I can get to all the screws.

Another thing is that the 30 year old paint on the neck and in the neck pocket may have glued themselves together need some gentle persuasion to part company.
 
i've never had to remove a neck to polish things up .? but really , it's not a big deal ... good time to clean fretboards , polish/level/crown frets ... most the gunk comes up from the fingerboard when the blue tape is removed !!
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Another thing is that the 30 year old paint on the neck and in the neck pocket may have glued themselves together need some gentle persuasion to part company.

Good point.
The safest way to ensure they're loose w/o chipping paint on the top may be to (with the screws still in, but a couple turns loose), carefully rocker the neck toward the back, then toward the front and feel for that bit of wiggle. Once you have that, you're ok.
 
There are reasons to be careful!

I chipped the finish on my Fender the first time I took the neck off. If the neck pocket is really tight, which it should be, and the neck comes free really quickly, which mine did, it can chip the finish.

Also, when putting it back on, there could be trouble. The first time I put my Fender's neck back on, it wasn't mated properly & the neck wasn't all the way down in the pocket.

If the holes in the body are not threaded, which they shouldn't be, you can crack the finish by tightening too tightly.
I too have done this when adjusting my truss rod.
The nitro finish and tight pocket made the finish flake.
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so somewhere along the way I must have picked up an old wives tale that neck removal was not something to be undertaken unless you were a luthier. I remember watching a TV program where they authenticated a rare guitar and removed the neck and my stomach turned watching that.... But I read message after message here about swapping necks, selling necks, etc. etc..... So that's my first question. Is neck removal a sound thing for Joe Average to do?..... See I have woodworking and finish skill. That's not a problem at all.... But my thirty year old Ibanez would shine like a diamond if I were to remove the neck, touch up some honest dings. I beieve she could be rubbed and buffed back to better than new. I would need to remove the neck to get at it with my polishers. That all depends on removing the neck. Is this a needless worry I have created in my mind?


I build parts basses all the time so I am putting different necks on different bodies all the time ... it is not rocket science ... but it does take a moderate amount of skill
 
I had two bolt-on Tune basses. Exactly the same,but one was fretless. I switched the necks.No biggie.

Wait, if they were exactly the same, why switch necks? Don't you get the same two basses? :D

To the OP, I too was (and still am, somewhat) nervous removing necks... Like I used to be nervous adjusting the truss rod. But read up on the proper procedure, and you'll be fine. Or, get a cheapo bass to get a feel for things, where possible damage is low (that's what I did).
 
Wait, if they were exactly the same, why switch necks? Don't you get the same two basses? :D

To the OP, I too was (and still am, somewhat) nervous removing necks... Like I used to be nervous adjusting the truss rod. But read up on the proper procedure, and you'll be fine. Or, get a cheapo bass to get a feel for things, where possible damage is low (that's what I did).
One body was walnut(on the left)
The other was Ovangkol.(This picture is after the switch)Snapshot_20141122 (2).jpg
One had preamp problems.Or so I thought.(The walnut body)
I wanted the walnut body for the fretless.But the preamp problem wasn't resolved until I replaced the pickups.
(I had originally thought that it was the preamp)

So I kept the fretless and sold the fretted.
I then upgraded the fretlesses pickups.Which solved the hum problem.Snapshot_2015704.jpg
 
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I know where you're coming from OP. I was paranoid about removing a neck until I bought a cheap bass with the intention of cutting it up to make a travel bass. Its' neck has now been off three times with no issues. As 96 says...... bass necks are strong.

Since this previous post 4 years or so ago, I've had the neck off and on my travel bass dozens of times with no issues.
Just remember to take off the strings before the neck and you'll be fine.
No..... just have to detune them a little and have a velcro strap on the neck.

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Since this previous post 4 years or so ago, I've had the neck off and on my travel bass dozens of times with no issues.

No..... just have to detune them a little and have a velcro strap on the neck.

View attachment 4441112

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This for whatever reason reminds me of a friend's steel frame bicycle that had a big sticker on the top tube that read "This bike is pipe bomb".