Chris--It's important to know whether you have one of the older or newer Standards. The old ones have no neck block, and the shoulders turn in to where the ribs fit into a groove in the side of the neck. This style would require the top taken off and a neck block installed before you could do a neck replacement. This is an expensive and tricky job. The newer ones have a neck block and are easier to change over. I don't know the serial #'s for the two styles, but you can tell them apart by the shape of the shoulders. If you're just looking for a thicker neck, a new fingerboard over a small maple shim might be the way to go. If you want to reduce the 43" string length though, neck replacement or a false nut is probably in your future.
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Double Bass Neck Replacement Question
- Thread starter Chris Fitzgerald
- Start date
I'm pretty sure it's one of the older ones - it's numbered "158". I was curious about the shim though...would that really give the illusion of a thicker neck? Is that also an expensive procedure? I'm assuming I'd have to get a new bridge cut no matter what.
No illusion--your neck WILL be thicker. Yes you'll need a new bridge. The shim should only add a little bit to the price of a fingerboard job. I agree it sounds like you have an old one. Do the shoulders bend inward at the neck block, like a Tyrolean? then it's the old style, with no neck block.Chris Fitzgerald said:
arnoldschnitzer said:
Yep - it's an old one. I don't know if that's a good or bad thing, but that's what it is. So if a thick-@$$ed fingerboard and shim will make the neck feel thicker, will they also provide support for the neck and act (in effect) as a part of the neck structurally? If so, that would be good news, as I'd like to flatten the back of the neck out a bit. I figure, if the bass sounds good but isn't worth much as far as "blue book value" goes, why not make it into something closer to the feel I want? I'm very close to being convinced that this is the way to go.
Yes, the neck will become structurally stronger, but this will have no effect on the integrity of the neck/body joint, a weak spot in those instruments. I recently repaired one that had been dropped. The neck was fine, but the back tore apart at the button and the ribs were a little splintered in the area as well. The top had to come off to fix a sunken area at the G bridge foot, so I reinforced the neck joint area and did a button graft. Very expensive! The moral here is to be aware of that neck joint weakness and be careful how you handle and store the bass.Chris Fitzgerald said:
Well, well. My first post in quite a while. I've been away, mostly in therapy. The Talkbass change sent me spiraling downward, and I had to seek po'fessional treatment...
Chris, a new board/shim/bridge would be cheaper than a New Standard. But putting in a different neck would be hard to justify, considering the top's condition and the total expense to fix it, install an upper neck body block, set a new neck w/a new board, finish, and cut a new bridge.
Chris, a new board/shim/bridge would be cheaper than a New Standard. But putting in a different neck would be hard to justify, considering the top's condition and the total expense to fix it, install an upper neck body block, set a new neck w/a new board, finish, and cut a new bridge.
Well I hope that the couch was comfortable, at least.
If you're around these parts during spring break I may make a "bass trek" up to your shop and compare options. Do you still have the New Standard?
If you're around these parts during spring break I may make a "bass trek" up to your shop and compare options. Do you still have the New Standard?
Yes, I have a Cleveland New Standard for sale right now. I will be taking it to Ann Arbor this weekend; a bassist up there wants to play one. He's heard some great things about their sound/durability, but wants to check it out for himself.
When is your spring break?
When is your spring break?
