neck washers question

[bassdog]

Hello Talkbass. My MIM Classic 60's Jazz truss rod nut is maxed and already has two washers in there. I'm wanting to put on a set of strings that have a little more tension than the current TI's. Is it ok to add one more washer if I need a few more threads for a little more tension on the neck? Might be ok as is, but I like very slight neck relief. Thanks for any suggestions. Bob

 

[kyral210]

I think you need a new neck. From experience, third party necks are superior value. On eBay, I bought a £120 roasted maple telecaster neck with insane fret ends and perfect fret dressing that puts my MIM Jazzamster’s neck to shame. Not all third party necks are equal, but Fender would charge £800 or so for not as good quality.

Remember, Leo designed his basses to have replaceable necks, so you’re following in his intention.

 

[bassdog]

I think you need a new neck. From experience, third party necks are superior value. On eBay, I bought a £120 roasted maple telecaster neck with insane fret ends and perfect fret dressing that puts my MIM Jazzamster’s neck to shame. Not all third party necks are equal, but Fender would charge £800 or so for not as good quality.

Remember, Leo designed his basses to have replaceable necks, so you’re following in his intention.

I hear you but not ready to give up on this neck. What 3rd party are to thinking?

 

[Turnaround]

If you’vecalready added two washers and the truss rod is maxed again, the wood under the truss nut is getting crushed. Adding another washer will just crush it more and you run the risk of cracking the fretboard between nut and first fret.

You need to determine why the crushing is happening. Start by completely slackening the strings and the truss rod. If the neck is still bowed under those conditions you need to get the neck de-warped - the truss rod is attempting to staighten the warp as well as counter the string tension. The added tension may be the cause of the crushing.

 

[Killing Floor]

Gotta wash your neck or you’ll get the dirt snakes.

 

[Markshan]

I hear you but not ready to give up on this neck.

I found out not too long ago that you can accomplish amazing things with a bunch of clamps and a couple heat lamps.

 

[kyral210]

I hear you but not ready to give up on this neck. What 3rd party are to thinking?

I hear you but not ready to give up on this neck. What 3rd party are to thinking?

There are many. If I was building a Jazz Bass now, I would buy this: Roasted maple Electric bass neck 21fret roasted maple fingerboard Jazz bass | eBay

NOTE: I avoid flame maple because even though it looks INCREDIBLE it is weaker and thus may lead to less stable tuning. I may be wrong, but that’s where I throw my gamble.

 

[FunkHead]

If you’vecalready added two washers and the truss rod is maxed again, the wood under the truss nut is getting crushed. Adding another washer will just crush it more and you run the risk of cracking the fretboard between nut and first fret.

You need to determine why the crushing is happening. Start by completely slackening the strings and the truss rod. If the neck is still bowed under those conditions you need to get the neck de-warped - the truss rod is attempting to staighten the warp as well as counter the string tension. The added tension may be the cause of the crushing.

A Classic 60's Jazz neck will have the Truss Rod Nut at the heel. But agreed that some cracking could still happen, Just on the other end.

The washer trick isn't as easy as people make it out to be. It's very important that the washer is free to "Travel" beyond the threads of the truss rod. Otherwise, you're just stretching the threads instead of controlling relief.

The key is selecting the perfect washer for the job. The outside Diameter needs to be just a tiny bit smaller than the hole in the heel. Secondly the hole in the washer needs to be large enough to allow the truss Rod Shaft to fit through(Not just the threads). This will allow the Truss Rod Shaft to move freely through the hole of the washer(s).

The best was to perform this operation is to clamp the neck to a 2X4 fret side down with rubber spacers at each end. Then clamp the neck in the middle just enough to eliminate relief or add just a tiny amount of back bow. While doing this clamping, You'll see the truss Rod Nut Push out of the heel. That tells you you have room to install another washer. With the clamp in place, You'll be able to spin the truss rod nut with very, very little force. At that point, remove the truss rod Nut and add another washer. You should be able to just snug up the Truss Rod nut and then remove the clamp. Reinstall the neck and string it up. If you still have too much relief then remove neck, re-clamp and turn truss another 1/2 turn.

Also note that lower saddle height take outward tension off of the neck so the strings are pulling with less force against the truss rod. That is why lowering you action is a great idea to tale the 'Heat" off of your truss rod. (Think of a Guy Wire on a telephone pole, Too close to the pole and there's much less pulling force. Higher action is pulling exponentially harder against the truss rod.

 

[bassdog]

I put the Sunbeams on, did not add a 3rd washer, and the bass set up nicely with very slight relief. There is a little more adjustment room with this truss rod nut, so not quite maxed. Just gonna play it. Thanks for the replies.