Need Advice - Sterling by MusicMan SUB

[TjMetalhead]

The Ray34 IMHO is not a budget model.

To be fair, it could be considered budget compared to a Stingray. Used Sterling Ray34's are a pretty good deal.

 

[Remoman]

First off to alleviate any concerns, Brian (VP of the company) and Sterling (Praxis) are stand up people. If they've offered to take care of the problem, they'll follow through. However, I get your concern on the cost shipping the bass out and back, even if done on the cheap side it could still kill $100. That money could go to a new pre-amp.

But, then if you're going to consider another SUB, and you really like yours, contact the folks and Nordstrand pickups. You can get a killer pup and pre-amp for about the same cost. Then you can have yourself a killer hot rod bass.

 

[Rayan]

I'm a really big fan of the Sterling Ray34 CA series, they're built like the classic models from the 70's so no tummy or forearm contours but I think they sound and play better than the subs. I had a SUB a few years ago and made good use of it, but the neck just felt too cheap for my taste. Ebay has one similar to the one in your profile pic. Sterling by MusicMan RAY34CA-SVM SILVER METALLIC Electric Bass 4 String w/GigBag 856205001270 | eBay

You didn't like the neck on your SUB? That was the main reason I bought mine, I loved the neck on it. I guess that speaks to the quality of the Ray34. I do like their sound though, I'll give you that. I like the bass you sent, I like the color of it a lot. If worst happens and I decide I just need to replace my bass, maybe I'll go for it, but I'm hoping I can stick with it. Hell, even if not, what's wrong with another bass? (;

 

[Rayan]

The Ray34 IMHO is not a budget model.

I meant in comparison to the classic EBMM Stingray. Quality wise it certainly isn't, but it's about $700+ vs. $1500+ for a classic Stingray.

 

[Rayan]

I had a problem with the Sterling Sub and the "hot" pre amp. What I did was rather drastic. Ripped out the pre amp and got a local shop to convert it to passive with a parallel/series switch and changed the pickup for a Wilkinson MM style pickup.

It cost around $80 but the bass sounds so much better to my ears. I wouldn`t buy a new Ray 34 as for the price they go for in the UK, you can buy a second hand Stingray.

You can convert from active to passive!? (I mentioned before I don't know enough about the electronics) That really could solve my problems, and I like passive more anyways! I might look into doing that.

 

[Rayan]

Forgive me if this has alepready been considered: Have you tried a different cable? Cable, battery, jacks, amp, these should all be considered as possible culprits.

I have tried with multiple batteries, jacks, and amps, but not cables. I've only really used two or three cables. But I'm not sure if that would make all the difference.

 

[Rayan]

I've used anything from 50k to 250k trim pots with success.

Don't get me wrong, you could lower the pickup (don't know if enough to eradicate the problem 100%), that'd be easier. But I usually avoid that for 2 reasons:

1) The most obvious, I (and many people) prefer how pickups react to strings being close. I've yet to find a bass pickup that sounds better when far from the strings.

2) I play fingerstyle over my Musicman's pickups, so want my pickup high for thumb support and also for my plucking fingers not to go too deep between strings. And even these days, when I play mostly with a pick (damm HC and metal), I certainly rely on contact with the pickup. The use of a soft pick (orange .60mm Tortex Triangle) together with the pickup preventing it from going too far down create a sort of first compression stage, very functional to my particular pick technique.

With a screwdriver, an iron and minimal soldering skills you can do the trimpot hack in 10 minutes, for a permanent solution to a problem that's endemic on those SUBs.

EDIT: BTW those are totally nice basses (I can tell, own 3 EBMMs and found all SUBs I've tried really competent). Still they could be made nicer with a further (cheap too) hack consisting of a series/parallel/single or coil1/parallel/coil2 tap switch. Your pickup comes hardwired parallel, so you'd probably need to add a couple extra wires comming from it. With a coil tap that bass would get way more functional. I'm sure they skip this option on SUBs to diferentiate them from SBMMs and EBMMs, not because of cost.

I did lower the pickup already and it's a little better, but like you said, it's less comfortable. I primarily play finger style and I like to rest my thumb on the pickup.

Ah, good to know, and I'm glad we agree it's a great bass. I'll bear in mind your advice, thanks.

 

[Fender_Bender]

I'd second the thought about checking the output jack. Both for the connection and for internal corrosion. At this point you don't have much to lose but a few minutes of your time.

 

[TjMetalhead]

You didn't like the neck on your SUB? That was the main reason I bought mine, I loved the neck on it. I guess that speaks to the quality of the Ray34. I do like their sound though, I'll give you that. I like the bass you sent, I like the color of it a lot. If worst happens and I decide I just need to replace my bass, maybe I'll go for it, but I'm hoping I can stick with it. Hell, even if not, what's wrong with another bass? (;

Idk, I liked the nut width but the fret wire was sticking out so my left hand would be a little cut up after playing (i live in the desert so the weather can be a little rough on instruments) and the build of the neck just felt cheap to me. I like the Sterling Ray34CA because the wood feels more solid, I love amber tints on maple necks and fretboards, and it's glossed too which I prefer to satin finishes. You can't go wrong with them, I like them more than EBMM.

 

[wizerd]

The pickup in my old SUB was very hot. I finally tamed it by lowering it away from the strings as far as it would go. It didn't have the crackle that you describe but there is some good advice here to try. Good luck

 

[Rayan]

The pickup in my old SUB was very hot. I finally tamed it by lowering it away from the strings as far as it would go. It didn't have the crackle that you describe but there is some good advice here to try. Good luck

I actually lowered the pickup already. It's a little better, but a bit hard to adjust to since I'm used to resting my thumb on the pickup. Maybe I'll invest in a thumb rest if I don't get a new pickup.

 

[mcnach]

You can convert from active to passive!? (I mentioned before I don't know enough about the electronics) That really could solve my problems, and I like passive more anyways! I might look into doing that.

There is little to 'convert'. It's a passive pickup. Remove the preamp and there you go: fully passive bass. If you don't want to bother with much soldering etc, you can buy a prewired loom for not much money. They sell some for Stingray type basses, typically 3 controls: one volume for each coil and a tone control, so essentially a Jazz bass wiring. So you can get a Jazz bass loom too.

Or make it yourself, of course.

If you like the bass, how it plays etc, but you just have trouble with the electronics, I would not buy another bass, nor I'd send the bass away for the preamp to be installed: you'll get the same preamp which is, quite frankly, a weak point in that bass. I'd rather buy another preamp elsewhere. You can get a Stingray preamp clone for around $50 already wired, only needing to connect the pickup and socket. If you can't solder, I'm sure there will be someone locally that could help you.

 

[RattleSnack]

Changing the preamp is a good idea if you have the budget, but it will not fix "too hot" problem. The pickup is culprit.

 

[LUpton]

I replaced the pickup and preamp on my SUB Ray5 with a Nordstrand MM 5.2 and an MM-clone 2 band pre. It made a night and day difference on my bass.

Re: passive - the stock pickup on my bass had a 2 wire only output, so the coils couldn't be split or series/parallel switched. I eventually put that pickup in a project bass wired passive with essentially a P bass control setup (250K volume,250K/.047 tone, output jack...), and it worked fine that way, actually a bit smoother sounding than with the stock preamp. Didn't overdrive the front end of my Carvin amp, either. That bass has since seen the wood chipper, but it wasn't because of the electronics...

Try passive wiring on the stock pickup using a P bass-style setup. It's reasonably cheap, and highly reversible. You'll just have a spare hole in the control plate.

YMMV, and all that...

 

[eccles77]

You can convert from active to passive!? (I mentioned before I don't know enough about the electronics) That really could solve my problems, and I like passive more anyways! I might look into doing that.

It`s an easy job if you know what you are doing, which I don`t but my local shop did a lovely job. I prefer passive instruments anyway.

Re the spare hole in the control plate. Just stick an old pot into the hole that isn`t connected to the circut and put the knob back on and Bob`s your funny auntie.

 

[Rayan]

Thanks for all your advice, guys. I think I'm going to take @eccles77 plan and just convert the bass to being fully passive. As it is, my preamp is pretty crappy, so might be worth the service.

I know @nolezmaj mentioned the pickup is the problem, but how essential is it to replace my pickup after that? Because it is a passive pickup anyways, so I figured it would make a difference. Maybe a new one would sound better, but if this one still sounds good and doesn't get too hot if I play at a high volume, then that's all I need.

 

[RattleSnack]

Sure, if you are going passive - try it with stock pickup, maybe it will suit you just fine. I never tried it in passive configuration, so it could be just fine.

 

[mcnach]

Changing the preamp is a good idea if you have the budget, but it will not fix "too hot" problem. The pickup is culprit.

except when the preamp itself is pretty hot, as in the SBMM SUBs...

 

[Badwater]

I agree, their customer service was excellent. Even if they sent me a faulty circuit, it was free, and they have been more than cooperative.

I considered that, actually (getting the Ray34). Though that's also a budget model, so I'm not sure. I guess I'd need to play it first to see if I like it (though I can't imagine it feels much too different from the SUB). Good idea about sending in the body though, I'll try that.

I've played both the SUB Ray4, Ray 34, as well as the EB Stingray. The Ray34 feels and sounds more like a stingray than the SUB Ray4. The Ray 34's neck is much wider without much taper like the stingray, and the bridge is really heavy duty with huge saddles and a thick plate just like the Stingray. And it came with a great fret job and set up. And the Ray 34 has the oil finish maple neck like the Stingray. On the other hand, the SUB Ray, is much lighter, with a thinner neck with more taper, and the electronics are not at all Stingray sounding, as they are very hot output and bright without much variability in the sweep of the pots. The Ray34 on the other hand, has a warmer tone and not as hot as the SUB Ray due to the alnico vs ceramic picups. And the preamp is a large circuit board mounted to each pot, vs the SUB ray where the circuit board is small and has wires from each pot. Anyway, after playing all 3, I went with the Ray34. It cost more than 2.5x the price of the SUB Ray4, and the closest thing to a Stingray without getting a Stingray. Anyway, the SUB Ray4 has a unique sound of it's own, and it's like a gateway drug into Stingrays.

 

[mouthmw]

Grab an old USA made S.U.B. That thing takes no second seat to Stingray, you get the same USA build quality, same preamp/pickup (and a 2 band to boot!) and a pretty much indestructible finish. And a neck that's probably more stable than wax finished Stingray necks because it has a lacquer finish. Save money and grab a real quality (event though I've seen their prices go up lately). Mine is bulletproof.