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Need help from and DIY cab builders...

I'm looking at building my own set of cabs, for a bottom I've been looking at different speakers in a 2x15 cab. It seems that the best setup is a pair of Eminence Kappa 15LF's, they go the lowest - -3 point of 47Hz - and have to highest Sensitivity - averages around 104 DB's.

The thing that bugs me is that I'm getting these specs out of a pair of drivers that cost less than $150 each when drivers costing twice as much arent even comparing. Is it possible that I've made a typo somewhere or do these specs seem reasonable.

BTW I'm using WinISD Beta, the Alpha version wouldn't run on my computer for more than 5 minutes at a time...
 
The type/construction of the enclosure and room you play in has alot to do with the depth and feel of bass. Just because a speaker lists a certain frequency response, doesn't mean it will hit that frequency. Plus, it doesn't mean it will sound good, either!
 
S. Byrnes said:
Why does WinISD show such cracked out graphs for some drivers? Like if you put in the TS specs for Deltalite 2515's it shows you need a 46cu ft box tuned to 31hz....

That's the correct cab size for 2 of those speakers in the "Optimal Flat alignment". WinISD beta defaults to that alignment automatically. It gives a -3dB point of 28Hz.

It was spaced out figures like that that made me go buy books and learn how to calculate these things myself. The cab volume is based on formulas and tables that are based on the speakers Thielle Small parameters. Once I understood it all, it turns out that some speakers do indeed need some wierdo sized cabs.

These same drivers in the SBB4 alignment would have a cab that's half the size. The -3dB point will be higher though, 36Hz. the 10" deltalites are pretty good, but I'm not a fan of the 12's or 15's. They're better suited for PA.

Back to the Kappa 15LF's - WinISD beta will tell you 4.6cu.ft per driver, tuned to 41Hz and -3dB at 43Hz (Optimal Flat alignment). Personally I'd go 3.62cu'ft per driver tuned to 39Hz for a -3dB point of 47Hz (SBB4 alignment). You won't notice the missing 3Hz, the cab will be much smaller, and SBB4 has a much better transient response (is faster at reproducing notes). It also has better excursion characteristics when pushed hard.
 
Bigwan said:
I have 2 Kappa 15 LF drivers loaded in 3.62 cubic ft (SBB4 alignment). They rock on lows. Pretty shy on the highs and upper mids so you'll need something else to fill in the gaps... They sound much better than they're cost would lead you to believe.
yeah they don't do anything above 1.5K. A typical tweeter (if you use one) will cut in at 3K so you might have a gap in the freq response. Wether or not it's a problem depends on a lot of things - the player's preference, wether or not there's another cab taking those frequencies. A midrange driver is another possibe solution.

You gotta love the tweak factor with DIY :)
 
I have the winISD beta version that runs very well.
email me off list and I'll send it to you. or I can post if if someone will clue me as to how....

The parameters for building your own cabinets are as follows.

1, ) What size are you willing and ABLE to carry that includes what kind of vehicle you have available. a great cabinet that you cannot move is useless

2,) How many and what type of speakers you want to use.
I prefer JBL 15's and 18's ( :hyper: JBL Fanatic!!) but that is just me, I would never own an Eminence.

3,) how skilled are you (or your buddies) at wood working. Designing a cabinet you can't build is also useless.

4,) How much time and money are you willing to invest.
in wood, drivers, tools, fasteners (nails, glue, screws etc.) accessories (like corners, edging, grill cloth/frames etc.)

At this point and any forseeable point I only play through my own cabinets (with only one exception and that was someone elses home built cabinet, they did a fine job too) . I can send out pictures if you like and am willing to help you through any rough spots.

Take your time and measure 3 or 4 times before you put saw to wood and you will have a kick-ass cabinet.
 
My spread sheet has the math for SBB4, QB3, Flat alignments already worked out.

It is a simple matter to sort the spread sheet by box volume, F3, or whatever thrills you. Once sorted, you can make a determination as to what will suit your needs for size and tuning. You can plug these drivers into WinISD if you want to see graphs.

I can tell you right now that 10 cubic feet is a monster to move around.
 
haujobb said:
I'm starting to get some normal numbers out of WinISD, still I'm getting better graphs from a Kappa 15LF than a Kappa Pro 15LF. Am I doing something wrong or is this correct?
If you mean you're getting the LF to go lower than the Pro, yep that's correct. You're probably assuming the Pro speaker should be "better", and it probably is for PA which is what a lot of raw drivers are made for. The Pro goes a lot higher (4K) than the LF (1.5K) and has a higher sensitivity. However for bass, the LF seems a better choice.
 
So I'm thinking I'm gonna go with two Kappa 15LF in an 8 cu. ft. ported box. I realise that that is a huge box, but I'm still young, I have alot of helpers and I've always been a firm believer that you need a big box for big bass...
 
haujobb said:
So I'm thinking I'm gonna go with two Kappa 15LF in an 8 cu. ft. ported box. I realise that that is a huge box, but I'm still young, I have alot of helpers and I've always been a firm believer that you need a big box for big bass...
Have you considered 2 seperate cabs? One of these days you're going to have to move it without help, and probably up a couple of flights of narrow stairs with drunks in the way.
 

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