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Need help installing crossover

P

PuffusMaximus

May 31, 2011
119
39
#1
The replacement crossover for one I recently fried arrived today and I'm having a little trouble setting it up. I know (I think) that the + and - from the input jack of the cabinet go to the IN+ and IN- respectively and the tweeter's + and - go to T+ and T-. What I don't quite understand is where the + and - from the speaker would connect to. Both remaining terminals are + :confused:
 

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#5
PuffusMaximus said:
eminence pxb 3k5
Click to expand...

OK, that's just a high pass section, not a full crossover. Lots of bass cabs do it that way, for better or worse. As long as the original one was like this you're all good. ;)

The woofer leads never need go to that board, which is why you can't find any terminals to do that. The woofer leads can go straight from the input jacks to the driver. The inputs on the high pass board also go to the jacks' + and - terminals. There may be a 'Y' connection somewhere in the cabling, or alternately two sets of leads coming off the input plate. Check that out and take a pic if need be, as there are lots of variations on how to do this.
 
#6
the lead in my hand comes from the lower woofer and connects to the upper and continues to (I feel stupid for not checking before disassembling) I don't remember what. There is only one set of leads from the jack
 

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#9
Do the woofers have double sets of push-on terminals? If so, wire the input jack wires to one of the woofers (so all 4 terminals on one woofer will now be occupied), then the wire that was in you hand continues from the top woofer to the high pass input.

There are a few other ways it may have been done originally, but we're getting closer.
 
#12
what if the input jack goes to the top woofer which then goes to the bottom woofer AND the high pass board?

no. I'm thinking I should have? what happened was that my friend was using my setup with the same settings (treble at 10 and L-pad all the way up). He started slapping and really digging in in the high register at the end of a song. Then there was almost no sound from the cabinet and we smelled smoke. Turns out the cap on the inductor coil melted in half. Now, anything past 2 on the master volume gets a super distorted and low volume
 
#13
PuffusMaximus said:
what if the input jack goes to the top woofer which then goes to the bottom woofer AND the high pass board?
Click to expand...

That's fine, just go with whichever suits the lead lengths you have to work with.

no. I'm thinking I should have? what happened was that my friend was using my setup with the same settings (treble at 10 and L-pad all the way up). He started slapping and really digging in in the high register at the end of a song. Then there was almost no sound from the cabinet and we smelled smoke. Turns out the cap on the inductor coil melted in half. Now, anything past 2 on the master volume gets a super distorted and low volume
Click to expand...

You need to find a meter and check all the drivers and the L-pad at this point. The tweeter is very likely to be toasted. PM me once you get a meter and I'll walk you through the testing.
 
#16
PuffusMaximus said:
currently, nothing. I was told to connect them to IN+ and IN- and after that is where my confusion began
Click to expand...

In, means in. The input terminals are shared by the woofer- the tweeter connects to the other terminals. Is this a piezo electric tweeter?

If you toasted the old crossover, you need to make sure this one will handle the power. The cap(s) need to be rated for more than 25V, preferably 50V. If this one isn't rated for more power, you're just going to toast it unless you stop overpowering it.
 
#17
1958Bassman said:
In, means in. The input terminals are shared by the woofer- the tweeter connects to the other terminals. Is this a piezo electric tweeter?

If you toasted the old crossover, you need to make sure this one will handle the power. The cap(s) need to be rated for more than 25V, preferably 50V. If this one isn't rated for more power, you're just going to toast it unless you stop overpowering it.
Click to expand...

this is the horn Invalid Link Removed

the old board had a single 100v cap and the replacement has 2 250v caps, one 12µF and the other 4.7, as well as a fuse
 

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