Need help regarding string rattle,possible truss rod adjustment,and string alignment!

Unless you plan on keeping this as a 2-string bass, you should wait until all 4 strings are on before adjusting the action and truss rod.

The strings are going to add another 80 pounds (or so) of tension to the neck, which will correct most of the issue for you.

 

^This^

 

Please take FMB's suggestions to heart; you're putting the cart before the horse.

 

That will depend on the nature of the problem. The neck will often continue to bend for a few hours after you install the new strings.

Once that initial settling period has taken place, fret the first fret with your left hand and the 15th fret with your right hand (same string) and take a look at the gap between the string and the frets. This will show you the amount of relief in your neck, and it should be adjusted as you see fit.

After that's done, go after the action at the bridge.

 

Your E and A strings are aligned correctly already. They want to be centered between the poles, as they are.

 

If you get threaded rod saddles, you'll be able to position the strings wherever you want.

 

Just an observation ..on your E string pic the wrap is not right...The last part of the wrap should be on the bottom of the string post.. Really important for Fender style necks on the E and Specially the A string.. Probably won't fix the fretted string rattle but will definitely cause an open string rattle at the nut!!

Bill

 

+2

 

This. What's with the big wad of string on the tuner? nice wraps from top to bottom, NO Overlapping! Now you know.

And yep, all strings need to be in before you worry about rattling.

 

Loosen your strings, loosen the neck bolts slightly, and push the neck toward the direction you need the G-string to move. Tighten it up and you should be good. This is a
common and easily-fixed problem with some bolt-ons.

 

This, with a caveat - the 4 strings should be centered on the fretboard. I would be more concerned about that than the pole pieces lining up perfectly. Could it be possible that when you re-strung the bridge the saddles are shifted to one side more than the other, ever so slightly?

See typical pictures

 

Yep, will help a lot.

 

The OP used a hammer to mount a tuning gear; my suggestion is that he step away from his instrument before he does serious, expensive damage.

 

That's why all of my suggestions have been hammerless.


Also, I've totally use a hammer to install a bushing before. Maybe that's what OP did?

 

I have to agree - OP, you may have some musical talent but it doesn't sound like you have the correct personality & skill set combination to make productive work on an instrument. Seriously, 30 hours at minimum wage can buy you a nice used bass from craigs, pawn, fleamarket,etc. You can get a lot of bass for $80-200. When you pay a guitar tech you only pay ONCE, you don't pay for his mistakes unless they are a real hose-bag.

 

A C-clamp or bench vise is a lot safer - put something wide across the headstock back to equal out the pressure, turn slowly and make sure it's going in straight, which is hard to do whilst hammering. Realistically those bushing should be able to be pressed in by strong hand pressure - their main function in life is to support the tuning peg, nothing else.. They can be a drag with all the different sizes (bushings) out there. I replaced some Hipshots that were OEM on an Ibanez 805E bass. Turns out the bushing was not the same size as a standard Hipshot of supposedly same make/model. Odd