Need help with a fretless fingerboard!!!

[RockWoofer]

Hello everyone!

This is my first thread here. I started to work with a cheap 5 string bass that used to have frets. I converted it to fretless. Now, the rosewood fingerboard is too soft, and I don't want to trade roundwounds for flats, as I also play some rock music on my instrument. Because my bass is a neck through body, there's no option on switching necks. So, I'm down to two options by far. The first one, is to unglue the fingerboard, and put another one made of a harder wood, like ebony. I know it's tedious, and that I would have to order a custom cut. I would take the chance of changing the truss rod at this time. The other option (this came from Stew McKinsey, a very good friend of mine), is to coat the fingerboard with acrylic urethane. Obviously I would have to flatten the fingerboard, and maybe give it a big radius (something almost flat, like a 20" or more). Which brand of acrylic should I use? And how to apply? Any help will be well received!

Thanks!!!

 

[AmadeusXeno]

Many people on here use epoxy on their fretless fingerboards. There is a link to it in the how to section at the top of luthier's corner.

 

[RockWoofer]

Many people on here use epoxy on their fretless fingerboards. There is a link to it in the how to section at the top of luthier's corner.

Thanks!!!! I'll take a look at it!!!! :-D

 

[Dirk Diggler]

I have found many coats of spar urethane works well. Protects very well, and even if it starts to wear, add another couple coats and your back in business.
Plus you're going to enjoy the delightful mwah with a coated board and rounds.
Good luck,
Dirk

 

[tjclem]

Stew ROCKS good luck with the project!

 

[RockWoofer]

Thanks, people!!! I appreciate all your help!

 

[agfrag]

Rockwoofer, I swear by superglue. I put a superglue finish on my favorite fretless,, and I play every day, and it lasted 15 years. Hardened up the wood I think, anyway, I think it would work even better than epoxy, you can get large bottles of it from RC hobby shops, get the thickest, smear it on, and use a radiused sanding block to level it out...carefully. Stew Mac sells them, but you can get cheaper wood ones elsewhere (eBay and others) . I would start with 220 grit sandpaper, then move up to about 2000 (auto finishing supply has this stuff) then polishing compound.

 

[RockWoofer]

Agfrag, thanks for your help! Should the sandpaper be wet or dry? And, how long it takes to dry to a hard surface?

 

[pilotjones]

Agfrag, thanks for your help! Should the sandpaper be wet or dry? And, how long it takes to dry to a hard surface?

There are many threads here on finishing a fretless board with superglue (CA, cyanoacrylate). Try a search, and also first look at the stickied threads at the top of this forum, there's probably a reference there. There was one with in the past month that you can find just by browsing a few pages, I think.

 

[RockWoofer]

Thanks, Pilotjones! I've been doing that, but, as there were too many ways to finish a fretless fingerboard, I tried this thread to check on the average answer at a glance. Now, I got a better Idea of how to manage my project, and I am really thankful of all of those who reached me helping out. This forum DOES work... It's just marvellous! I'll keep in touch, so all of you will know about the outcome with my instrument. and once more... THANKS!!!

 

[RockWoofer]

Update... Started giving the neck a flat surface first, to compensate for the string wearing, followed by a darker stain and sealer. Did a light sanding (220 grit), removed all dust and oil from it with mineral spirits, and after drying, gave it the first hand of super glue epoxy (delayed set... it takes 30 minutes to set, so i can take my time spreading it). Now waiting for it to cure (at least 8 hours for handling) for another bit of sanding and a new layer of super glue. Seems to do fine! After the last layer, I'll do a light sanding with 2000 grit, followed by some polishing compound. If you have any ideas or questions at this time, please let me know! You all did your part and I appreciate your time and knowledge. Once more... THANKS!!

 

[RockWoofer]

New update... After the second layer cured, gave it a light sanding with a 2000 grit wet sanding paper, and later some polishing compound. I need to put two more layers at least, but tried the bass at this point, and it's pretty playable! But the extra layers are necessary to protect the fingerboard, and that would help me to lower string height just a little bit. The bridge saddles are all the way down. Ideas, anyone???

 

[tjclem]

Try a piece of business card as a shim under the neck at the back of the neck pocket to raise the neck a bit....t

 

[RockWoofer]

Thanks, Tom! The thing is that this bass is a neck through body. That's why I need to force level the board building up some surface. It's just a cheap piece I'm practicing on. Plus, I also have to change the truss rod, or maybe just the nut, which is damaged and stuck. As I stated earlier, one of the options was to change the fingerboard, exchanging it for a custom cut ebony fingerboard. As I would have to unglue the board, it would be a good chance to work with the truss rod.

Even though the bass is a cheap one, actually it sounds pretty acceptable.

 

[tjclem]

OOPS sorry about that..t

inset the bridge in the body?

 

[RockWoofer]

LOL!!! I actually thought about that! But then, the strings won't have enough space to be mounted through the holes, and the bridge is not the string through body type. Unless I get one of those bridges, I can't inset the bridge.