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Need opinions on potential purchase!

If the MIJ medium scale P is from the mid 80's, that's arguably the best bass you've mentioned in this thread. The serial number should narrow down it's vintage based on the initial letter. And as a guitar player, you'll transition into bass more easily with a medium scale (or a short scale, but you don't have one). Good luck.
 
The medium is serial E945XXX for those that are handy dating these things. I think I paid around $400 for it 10 years ago.

The AO felt really great in my hands. The chunky C or whatever they're calling it was really nice. And it was setup well also. Played pretty effortlessly. The LPB is grabbing me as well. GAS! I think I'm going to sleep on it for a day or two and if the urge is still there I'm going to get it.

Thanks everyone for all the replies! I love this place already!

john in san diego
 
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I say if you like the bass you should get it. I have let two wonderful P-Basses slip through my hands in the past and I wish I could have the opportunity to buy either right now.

That having been said, I disagree that the finish cracks on the headstock are caused by overtightened tuners. The tuners are held in by 4 tiny screws on the back side. The metallic rings on the string side are simply bushings. They are pressed into place and are pretty much permanently installed once placed. They are not adjustable hence they aren't tighten-able. There are some makes of tuners that the bushings serve double duty as the retaining fasteners also. The bushing is a big nut. That type of tuner can cause finish and even mechanical damage if overtightened and often is because of the misleading size of the nut which suggests it needs to be reefed down. it doesn't need to be. I don't see that happening with the stock tuners that are installed on this bass.

I'm wondering if maybe somebody removed the bushings and either reinstalled them incorrectly or installed improperly sized replacements and the damaged finish occurred. Another thought is that the bass took a hard enough face-down fall that the upper 3 tuners were jammed toward the end of the neck causing the damage via the bushings. Or maybe a slip out of one of the wall hangars that grabbed the tuners on the way down. To me that makes more sense than anything else. I would definitely ask more questions and look much closer at this situation. Ask to remove a couple of the strings, remove tuners, lift the bushings up, and look for damage. Check the tuners for bent posts which will tell the story like skid marks at an accident scene. It may be nothing or it may be a big problem in the making. Be sure it is nothing before getting in too deep.
 
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Post yer P here! If that medium scale P has a maple fretboard, I'd jump in on the bidding war. (Twice, if it happens to be black...) :)

Ha! Actually it's white with a rosewood board. Previous owner put a Badass Bridge on it and a drop tuner thingy which I replaced.

You guys have shown me the light with the medium scale. I'm going to keep it. The MIM is history.

john in san diego
 
My 2 cents. Don't buy the GC bass. There are others especially in such a dense location as yours. Please be careful on what you sell the medium scale P bass for, if you even decide to sell it. It might be worth the effort to take your basses to a guitar tech and have him tune them up and give them another try.

There's no need for you to buy basses with cracks in the neck and knots in the back of the neck even if it's just cosmetic. Shame on GC for offering that bass without pointing those out in the listing.
 
I say if you like the bass you should get it. I have let two wonderful P-Basses slip through my hands in the past and I wish I could have the opportunity to buy either right now.

That having been said, I disagree that the finish cracks on the headstock are caused by overtightened tuners. The tuners are held in by 4 tiny screws on the back side. The metallic rings on the string side are simply bushings. They are pressed into place and are pretty much permanently installed once placed. They are not adjustable hence they aren't tighten-able. There are some makes of tuners that the bushings serve double duty as the retaining fasteners also. The bushing is a big nut. That type of tuner can cause finish and even mechanical damage if overtightened and often is because of the misleading size of the nut which suggests it needs to be reefed down. it doesn't need to be. I don't see that happening with the stock tuners that are installed on this bass.

I'm wondering if maybe somebody removed the bushings and either reinstalled them incorrectly or installed improperly sized replacements and the damaged finish occurred. Another thought is that the bass took a hard enough face-down fall that the upper 3 tuners were jammed toward the end of the neck causing the damage via the bushings. Or maybe a slip out of one of the wall hangars that grabbed the tuners on the way down. To me that makes more sense than anything else. I would definitely ask more questions and look much closer at this situation. Ask to remove a couple of the strings, remove tuners, lift the bushings up, and look for damage. Check the tuners for bent posts which will tell the story like skid marks at an accident scene. It may be nothing or it may be a big problem in the making. Be sure it is nothing before getting in too deep.
FACEPLANT - that was my impression as well.
 
Hi John :)

Welcome to TB!!!


The medium is serial E945XXX for those that are handy dating these things.

The E- prefix was used on MIJs between 1984 and 1987.

Hard to tell which year, because they also used the prefixes A, B, C (1985 - 86) and F (1986 - 87)

The higher number 945xxx points towards the later years (86 - 87) but nothing is sure!



The medium scale does have some sentimental value to me--I bought if for my son when he was playing bass as a preteen. He's since moved on but I do like the instrument and even though it just sits around maybe it's novel enough to keep?

When you like it, keep it! 80s Fender MIJs are nice basses!

The connection to your son adds some personal "mojo". That' s priceless!

Nobody can pay you enough for sentimental value! (IMO)

You guys have shown me the light with the medium scale. I'm going to keep it.

:thumbsup: Rock it!! :bassist:


greetings

Wise(b)ass
 
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Hi, John, welcome to TB. P basses are the most common model on the planet. Don't settle for one that has issues unless it is the best playing/sounding/looking/smelling/tasting bass ever. Hold out for another LPB without any damage. You bass is gig worthy, so do a few more high paying gigs with what you've got and you can go shopping for your dream bass. Some basic info on neck sizes that may help> the nut width is listed as follows: A = 1.5", B = 1.62", C = 1.75". Have a great day.