Lots of good advice above. I'd avoid going the electronic route for two reasons. First, you'll need to buy a good amp or P.A. to keep up with the rest of the band. Electronic drums need a full-range system that can handle everything from bass drums to splash cymbals, plus the high-end transients from snare drums, etc. Most guitar or bass amps and cabs aren't suited to this kind of work. A keyboard combo, like a Roland, works well, but they're not cheap. Also, putting the drummer through the P.A. is never a good idea, unless the mixing board is well out of his reach... Second, electronic drums aren't nearly as durable as acoustic kits. Most of their mounting hardware is lightweight aluminum and the pads themselves aren't designed for abuse (i.e. they are
not the best drums for metal!).
As with basses, used drum kits can be a great bargain, and that's what I'd recommend. As a
general rule of thumb, maple and birch shells are used in higher-end drums. Mahogany, basswood, beech, and "select hardwoods" are used in lower-end kits. There are some exceptions, but, for a novice shopper, shell material is a good place to start. Used kits may also come with extra hardware (stands, drum throne, mounting clamps), that wouldn't have originally been sold as part of the set. This can save you some big bucks. The last time I was in our local Sam Ash, they had some screamingly good deals on used drums. GC has some, but the prices aren't that great. If you've got a good local drum shop (
not GC!), stop in and tell them what you're looking for. They can probably steer you in the right direction and may even have a bulletin board with "for sale" notices. Older professional-grade Ludwig and Premier kits are often under-appreciated and, consequently, under-priced!
When buying a used kit, make sure that anything that has a visible thread, wing nut, or T-handle turns freely. If you really wanna look like a pro, bring your own drum key. If the seller doesn't know what it is...walk away! Look inside the drum for cracks or splitting in the wood. If you have time, take off both heads and make sure that the bearing edges (the rims of the drum shell, where the heads sit) are cut cleanly. The wood at the edge of the shell may be cut to a sharp or rounded profile, but it shouldn't be uneven or have dents. The metal rims/hoops on the drums should be perfectly round and rest flat on a flat surface (such as a countertop). If you set the rim down on a flat counter and it rocks back and forth, that's bad!
Cymbals are pretty easy. They shouldn't be cracked and the center hole should be round, not a keyhole shape. Heavier cymbals may last longer than thin ones, but it's really more a matter of how you hit the cymbal than how thick it is. Almost anything by Zildjian, Sabian, or Paiste should be fine for beginners. As far as drum heads go, Emperor or Pinstripe heads from Remo are durable, two-ply heads that also sound good for most rock music. Any brand-name medium-weight clear head will work on the bottom side. Beginner and semi-pro drum sets often come with mediocre heads. Putting a good set of heads on any new or used kit can make a huge difference.
If you're going to get a new student or semi-pro kit, Premier, PDP, Gretsch, Tama, and Pearl all make some good stuff. I've listed them in my order of preference. However, I may be biased when it comes to Premier...
Almost every company imports a crap Chinese or Taiwanese kit and then puts their name on it. As with basses "Line Name by Big Brand Name" (i.e. Maxwin by Pearl Drums) is usually a bad sign. Try stay away from these, and go at least one more rung up the ladder. You should be able to find something you like. I've been playing and gigging as drummer for about 35 years. If want any more suggestions, feel free to post or send me a PM.
One last thing (and you probably already know this...): in the wrong hands, drums can be insanely, dangerously loud. You probably can't control all of the kids who come over, but if you're going to lock your son in the basement with hormone-addled, teenage Dave Grohl wannabees,
please protect his hearing. The SureFire EP3 or
Invalid Link Removed earplugs are super comfortable, damn near invisible (cool factor!), last forever, sound decent, and cost less than fifteen bucks.
