New Bass Day G & L M2500

[jon5252]

I appreciate that tip about the battery compartment. I will check that out!

 

[Nedmundo]

Since this is an M-2500 thread, I feel obliged to show off my Ruby Red sweetie. The neck is quartersawn, which might contribute to the incredible sustain and general responsiveness:

 

[Dr. Cheese]

The M-2500 really makes think of the Sadowsky Modern basses. The M-2500 just has narrower string spacing.

 

[jmlee]

So I have had the chance to spend about 10 hours playing this bass. Here is what has happened.



First, a string change was in order. I read some place about someone putting a set of TI nickel wounds on theirs and really enjoying the outcome. Knowing this was in the works I ordered a set. The TI's were considerably lighter gauge so there was also about an hour adjusting string height, truss rod and intonation. Now have absolutely zero fret buzz, plays evenly and in tune all over the fingerboard. The TI's to my ear give the bass a more polished sound. I know I have heard this bass is more "conservative" than the L-2500, but what I am finding is you can pretty much make it sound as you want it to. I am playing in a jazz/rock guitar trio and really am beginning to think I can get all kinds of variety just by a little adjustment of the pick up balance.



Love the neck shape, everything is accessible and very comfortable. I would say I have become happier with my purchase as the last couple of days have gone on. My thoughts are if you want a classy sounding well put together bass you would have to spend a lot more money to accomplish more. My thinking is I have a new main bass.

+1 on the TIs. Flats on my Tribby M2000 and rounds on my US L2000. Tried a bunch of types and this pairing is spectacular. I *really* want an M2500 and you're giving me GAS pains. I'm presuming yours is US based on the Plek comments. While I love my L, I've had a couple of singers turn around and gush over the sound of the M. The slightly re-thought pickups and preamp make this a remarkable rig.

 

[jon5252]

I have experience with TI Flats and think they would be killer on one of these. Responding to a different reply, that ruby bass is a beauty.

 

[Kubicki Fan]

Since this is an M-2500 thread, I feel obliged to show off my Ruby Red sweetie. The neck is quartersawn, which might contribute to the incredible sustain and general responsiveness:

Nice!!! What wood is the finger board made of?

BTW does the truss rod nut sit snugly in it's well or is the space over sized as in the picture below?

----- Thanks!!!

 

[Nedmundo]

^^It's a very dark rosewood fretboard, which is fantastic IMO. My 2010 G&L JB also has a very dark rosewood fretboard, while my 2007 SB-2's is lighter. They're all great, but I prefer the darker fretboards.

The truss rod has some space like the one in the photo.

 

[Kubicki Fan]

^^It's a very dark rosewood fretboard, which is fantastic IMO. My 2010 G&L JB also has a very dark rosewood fretboard, while my 2007 SB-2's is lighter. They're all great, but I prefer the darker fretboards.
The truss rod has some space like the one in the photo.

We have similar taste I prefer heavy, dense ebony for fingerboard lighter colored woods. And thanks for the info.

Do you have a problem using the allen key that was supplied with the bass? Mine doesn't fit unless I grind the short end even shorter (1/2") the angle of the access hole doesn't allow the tool to go in straight

 

[basslifter]

Nice! Love my G&L L2500 trib. Tough choice between that and the M. I got lucky to have a store near me take in a used one to try. Loved it and ordered a new one. G&L basses don't get enough love. I would like to see more 5 string options from them

 

[Nedmundo]

Do you have a problem using the allen key that was supplied with the bass? Mine doesn't fit unless I grind the short end even shorter (1/2") the angle of the access hole doesn't allow the tool to go in straight

I haven't needed to adjust my M-2500's truss rod, but I just tried to get the allen key in there and it seems fine. And my SB-2 and JB are easy to adjust. I have, however, experienced what you describe on an L-1500 I owned a few years back. It took lots of fiddling to get the allen key in there due to the angle. It was a pain, but I always managed eventually. Once, when the allen key was in there, I pulled the nut up, and stuffed a thick rubber band under it. This elevated it for easier adjustment later, and quelled an intermittent vibration. I think grinding the allen key down is a good approach too.

 

[Kubicki Fan]

I haven't needed to adjust my M-2500's truss rod, but I just tried to get the allen key in there and it seems fine. And my SB-2 and JB are easy to adjust. I have, however, experienced what you describe on an L-1500 I owned a few years back. It took lots of fiddling to get the allen key in there due to the angle. It was a pain, but I always managed eventually. Once, when the allen key was in there, I pulled the nut up, and stuffed a thick rubber band under it. This elevated it for easier adjustment later, and quelled an intermittent vibration. I think grinding the allen key down is a good approach too.

Thanks for the feedback. You gotta wonder though, such a well put together instrument as the M2500, and such an annoying detail left unattended...

 

[Muddslide]

Well sir, it absolutely oozes class, that's for sure.

I always say, I've never played a G&L that wasn't completely top notch.

Congrats and enjoy!