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New bridge on a vintage fender

mcfrankson

mcfrankson

Jan 9, 2008
123
168
#1
Hi all. I am a very happy owner of an early 70's P bass. I love it, and it has all original parts, but the bridge has degraded over time. It doesn't keep the strings up. I put them up, and they come down in just about 2 weeks or less. So, the bridge isn't serving its purpose. How would you go about replacing this bridge? Without "modifying" the bass. What kind of bridge would you think is a good choice to put on it? I don't know if putting a new bridge (though the present one sucks) would just ruin the instrument. Never replaced a bridge, looking for guidance. Thanks yall!
 
#2
Are you saying that the height adjustment screws in the saddles are vibrating loose and letting the saddles drop back down until they are flat against the bent plate? Instead of replacing the the bridge, you might just try something to keep those adjustment screws from backing off by themselves. Something that would be really easy to remove and would probably stop them from turning on their own - a little bit of beeswax in the threads of those screws. Just unscrew the adjustment screws completely out of the saddle and rub the threads on a block of beeswax (my hardware store sells blocks of beeswax for a couple of dollars) and then turn the screws back into the saddles.
 
#3
AndyPanda said:
Are you saying that the height adjustment screws in the saddles are vibrating loose and letting the saddles drop back down until they are flat against the bent plate? Instead of replacing the the bridge, you might just try something to keep those adjustment screws from backing off by themselves. Something that would be really easy to remove and would probably stop them from turning on their own - a little bit of beeswax in the threads of those screws. Just unscrew the adjustment screws completely out of the saddle and rub the threads on a block of beeswax (my hardware store sells blocks of beeswax for a couple of dollars) and then turn the screws back into the saddles.
Click to expand...
That's exactly what I'm saying. I'll try that!
 
#5
The time tested methods.

Nail polish on the threads. Cool because when you adjust later it chips away as you rotate the screws.

BLUE locktite. Cool because it stays in the threads always adding a good bit of resistance to rotation. Be careful when you break it loose the first time that you don't strip the socket. Don't get any in the sockets!!!!! or you'll be replacing the screws. Wind the screws out the bottom, TINY dab of the locktite on the threads and wind them back up. Spur off excess.

Remove the screws and gently mar the threads with needle nose pliers. Don't chew them up just deform them slightly.

Beeswax is ok too. The only tiny little minus is that dirt sticks to it. By no means a big deal but I couldn't think of any other pitfall. :D

Teflon tape is a PIA on tiny little screws. Your mental health may suffer.
 
#8
2rpdvs5.jpg


Or a Babicz. It's a direct replacement.
 
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#11
I've used the Babicz on a P-bass. Amazing piece of hardware, can't say enough good about it. Unless you need string spacing adjustment (which on a P shouldn't be an issue) it is in my eyes the perfect bridge. Lightweight, Smart design, locking saddles etc.
 
#12
96tbird said:
Plus in ten years when it's over 50 years old and really valuable you can remove it and have an oversized impression of the Babicz baseplate on it. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I suppose it depends upon whether one wants a functional bass, or a museum piece. Me, I'll take the functional bass every time. Others prefer the museum piece. Both are valid.
 
#13
Try this - something I did on a friend's Fender. Swap the E and the G saddle assembly and the A and D saddles assembly such that the sides of the saddles that were facing the bass were now facing outwards. In my case, what was happening is that the treads on one side of the saddles was getting worn and slippage would take place. By turning over the saddles the other side gets used. Otherwise, why not just replace all four saddle assemblies?
 
#16
As suggested by others if the only problem is the saddles droping use locktite. As for a BAII bridge reducing the value that's bologne as long as you don't throw out the original bridge. That bridge and many others use the existing screw holes to mount them.
 
#18
Saddles are fine, I think that is normal for these vintage bridges. I tried plumbers tape, it worked somewhat, but either too much or too little, it was still finicky.

I put some small squares of plastic underneath just the barrel part between the screws, 1 or 2 peices depending on the string. I guess if you really need to fine tune that isn't great, but actually it has worked out fine for me. Changing strings is a bit more of a chore, but not much. The screws seem tight enough to not want to fall out, but loose enough to go lower because of the vibrations. That loosening works to your advanatage keeping the plastic peices from falling out, actually it is hard to remove or put them in. Bonus, it may help with side to side movement of the group of bridge saddles as well, no data to back that up though.

Other than that my next move would be with the beeswax, then nail polish or lock tite, but I've been working my plastic peices for a year on a fretless with no problems. Doesn't look like hell either. I may take a photo if anyone wants to see that in action, not at home at the moment.
 
#20
Been playing these things for over 40 years now. A dab of nail polish is ok but can set up pretty tight. Blue loctite is the way to go. Don't use the red stuff , it sets up really tight and you might strip the allen screws when you try to raise or lower your action. Also , any bridge will wear over time and might need this done to it. Just because it's an expensive bridge doesn't mean the adjustment screws won't back off.
 

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