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New Carvin - worth it?

It came out to around $1500 for a very cool J bass - plus it would be fun. Something to think about.

And sell for about $400-$600 if you can find a buyer. The problem with Warmoth is it's a lot like one of these Asian Noodle places where you build it yourself. You end up putting everything in your bowl and it ends up tasting like sh@&t!~ vs something you could have ordered off the menu.
 
I don't have a Carvin bass, but I have a Carvin guitar, and I love it (and I own many guitars). It's sitting in my office right now since I have a rehearsal is a couple of hours.

Mine is Crimson Red, but on mahogany. The color was my only compliant of the build since I was expecting a deeper tone.
 
I'm thinking of crimson red translucent on maple. I expect sort of a blood red...not candy apple, but not burgundy. Is that a fair assumption?


I don't have a Carvin bass, but I have a Carvin guitar, and I love it (and I own many guitars). It's sitting in my office right now since I have a rehearsal is a couple of hours.

Mine is Crimson Red, but on mahogany. The color was my only compliant of the build since I was expecting a deeper tone.
 
That's exactly the situation I'm in. I've been eyeballing Carvin's stuff for years and I really want an Icon (I've got it all spec'd out and everything), but just can't seem to work up the nerve since I can't play one... :hmm:

I hear ya. My Icon is a great bass but I can't say if it's for you or not. However, if you put together a Warmoth Gecko you're probably the adventurous type. Go for it!
 
Quick question for you Carvin heads out there. If you select the option "TN - Tung Oil Finish Back Of Neck" and "PH - Headstock To Match Body Color" on a bolt-on bass.... I assume they only match the FRONT of the headstock to the body color?

I want the back of the neck and the back of the headstock to be natural wood color. But the front of the headstock to be red like the body. Am I doing this right? I just don't want to be stock in a situation where the front AND back of the headstock are red...and so when you look at it from the back, you see a red headstock bleeding into a natural wood colored neck... ugh...
 
Quick question for you Carvin heads out there. If you select the option "TN - Tung Oil Finish Back Of Neck" and "PH - Headstock To Match Body Color" on a bolt-on bass.... I assume they only match the FRONT of the headstock to the body color?

I want the back of the neck and the back of the headstock to be natural wood color. But the front of the headstock to be red like the body. Am I doing this right? I just don't want to be stock in a situation where the front AND back of the headstock are red...and so when you look at it from the back, you see a red headstock bleeding into a natural wood colored neck... ugh...


AFAIK, they only color-match the front. You should doublecheck that point when you go to order it and re-emphasize to your order-taker that you only want the front color-matched.
I'd love to order an LB-70 with a quilted top and that gorgeous dragonburst finish--YUMMY! BUT, my budget says otherwise! Oh well, what can you do?

I hope you get the bass of your dreams!
 
Per Don Lithgow at Carvin, they won't do a double bucker B4. Do you remember who you talked to, and how much extra it cost you? :hmm:

+1 to this.

I like Carvins and have owned a few over the years, some new and some used. Used is a great way to go if you're either patient or not that picky. Personally I've been somewhat seriously watching for one that is close to the specs I'd want if I got another one new and haven't seen anything close in over a year.

At the moment I own one Carvin and it is also a bass that I doubt I would find another one like it on the used market. First because I was pretty specific about the finish I wanted and secondly because I talked them into doing dual humbuckers which apparently they really don't do often on a B4.

b4c.jpg


So I guess my answer is that it's worth it if you think you'll have trouble finding one you want used.
 
Tim,

I myself think about ordering a new Carvin every now and then. That last one, I bought from you played fantastic...I just could not get used to that finish!

I ended up selling it and getting my money back though, so resale wasn't so bad to me in that case.

Let me know what you decide!
 
Per Don Lithgow at Carvin, they won't do a double bucker B4. Do you remember who you talked to, and how much extra it cost you? :hmm:

I want to say it was either a $30 or a $50 upcharge but if it's important I could go into my filing cabinet and grab the receipt when I get home. I can't remember who I talked to. At the time I didn't realize it was an odd request.

Later, per TBer (and former Carvin sales rep) mgood told me that they normally didn't take double bucker orders on a B4 and when they did, the guys on the line would have a conniption fit.
 
Naw the double bucker isn't that big a deal. Matter of fact, I think the H50s or whatever they're called are actually "stacked" humbuckers in a jazz style casing.

This thread is making me want a new Carvin more than ever. But first I have to sell this bass and possibly some other stuff as well.
 
Some stuff of mine finally sold so I think I'm going to pull the trigger. Here are the amended specs, based on recommendations in this thread:

B4
Right Handed - $669.00

MA - Maple Neck/Alder Body (Standard) $0.00
CG - Clear Gloss Finish (Standard) $0.00
TR - Crimson Red $25.00
TN - Tung Oil Finish Back Of Neck (Standard) $0.00
CTH - Carved Top Headstock $20.00
PH - Headstock To Match Body Color $20.00
EB - Ebony Fingerboard (Standard) $0.00
AB - Abalone Block Inlays $80.00
FR - Med-Jumbo Frets .048" H .103" W (Standard) $0.00
R12 - 12in Fretboard Radius (Standard) $0.00
H50S - H50S Stacked Humbuckers (Standard) $0.00
AC - Active/Passive Electronics w/ Coil Splitters, Phase Switch $50.00
G - Gold Hardware $50.00
4011 - Nickel Roundwound .040 .060 .080 .100 $0.00
ABL - Abalone Logo $30.00
SL - Dunlop Straplocks $10.00
HC17 - ABS Hardshell Bass Case $0.00

Guitar Total: $954.00
Shipping: $29.00
Total: $983.00
 
I could be wrong about this, but I thought Crimson Red was an optional translucent color when you opted for a flamed maple top.

You may already know this, but it will look fairly different on the darker alder.

I've seen a few basses with gold hardware where it looks sharp, but I agree that black might look better for yours.

MikeBass, thanks I dig that bass too.